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On my picture with the gear sets together the input shaft as you can see is splined to the flywheel/engine.. (on the left side)..and the front bearing..right after the spline..it’s pressed on as are the other gear speeds, the rear bearing is snap ringed in place and seats/ placed
on the other case half. You remove from rear to front to only have a naked input shaft. You have to press these off..I want to mention both input shaft bearings are culprits, and also this transmission isn’t stout enough on hi rev shifts, and oil sling isn’t either the best.
Good hearing from you Mike. You mentioned the removal of the input shaft bearings starts with the dis-assy of the rear bearing 1st. Can the frt bearing be pressed off the other end, by itself, or do you have-ta destack the entire shaft, to get to it? Wondering if there's a snap-ring holding it in place, like the rear, or is there a step machined into the shaft to prevent fwd removal? Thanks again for your reply.
As you say.. not a destack, because look at the shaft. And this pic is helpful
Michael! What a great idea. So simple, yet never thought of it.
I knew I would need an alignment tool for the disc, and was trying to think of where I could acquire one.
In the past, I had a couple sacrificial ones for the Muncies I worked on, and when I needed to do other models, I ended up purchasing the plastic set below, which totals about..."I don't know how many, never counted them". I purchased them over 30 something years ago, and have really only used a fraction of them. And they were made "long" B4 the EB60 was ever thought of. So is there one in there that will work? I highly doubt it, but I was gunna look anyway. "UNTIL", I saw your post this morning. Forgetting that this tranny will be opened up, I'll use it for the tool. Thanks again for the tip. Good job.
And concerning the input shaft Front bearing, the breakdown you posted from Toyota, shows that the gearing doesn't have-ta be dis-assembled, to pull off the Front bearing.
That should make things a tad easier. (I hope). Below, when tools were made out of steel. Well, I guess they really weren't tools at first.Muncie fine spline, and coarse spline. (Not intended for Scion)
And now, the "modern" plastics, cheap to make, but not so much to buy? Actually, don't some clutch sets come with one of these, in the installation kit?
[QUOTE=joeq;4307821]Michael! What a great idea. So simple, yet never thought of it.
I knew I would need an alignment tool for the disc, and was trying to think of where I could acquire one.
In the past, I had a couple sacrificial ones for the Muncies I worked on, and when I needed to do other models, I ended up purchasing the plastic set below, which totals about..."I don't know how many, never counted them". I purchased them over 30 something years ago, and have really only used a
fraction of them. And they were made "long" B4 the EB60 was ever thought of. So is there one in there that will work? I highly doubt it, but I wuz gunna look anyway. "UNTIL", I saw your post this morning. Forgetting that this tranny will be opened up, I'll use it for the tool. Thanks again for the tip. Good job.
And concerning the input shaft frt bearing, the breakdown you posted from Yotota, shows that the gearing doesn't have-ta be dis-assembled, to pull off the Frt bearing. That should make things a tad easier. (I hope).
Below, when tools were made out of steel. Well, I guess they really weren't tools at first.
Muncie fine spline, and coarse spline. (Not intended for Scion)
And now, the "modern" plastics, cheap to make, but not so much to buy? Actually, don't some clutch sets come with one of these, in the installation kit?
Damn what a wall you have of poker poke tools!!. but I was explaining how to get the gears off (in my head)
and not thinking about the front only.. But hell you pointed it out and nice notice.
I'm not 100% sure Mike, but I think the frt bearing is retained by the outer race, held in place by the frt case. And the back brg with the snap-ring. But is there a thrust washer, or something in the back? (I don't see one). Maybe cause it's a ball bearing, and not a roller, it's not needed. (?) Can't wait to look further. OFN
And again, I learned something new today. When picking up some axle seals from the Toyota parts people, I asked for a pilot bearing to replace the one in my daughters car, when I do the repair. It appears, (even by your schematic above), that this tranny doesn't need a pilot bearing. Because it has a frt bearing, and a rear input shaft bearing, one isn't needed. Clever of them.
No pilot bearing, and maybe that's part of problem. Is there way to add pilot bearing? Would help centre input shaft on crank and reduce load on input bearing.
Hey Danno, I just asked this question to Mike in my tranny thread. If there is no pilot brg, then what tool do you use to line up a new clutch disk? Usually, the slave tools, (or an old input shaft), the splines hold the disk on the shaft,
and it is aligned by inserting the tool into the pilot bearing. That's when you torque down the pressure plate bolts. On this EB-60 tranny, W/O a journal on the frt of the input shaft, you have nothing there? (I'm totally confused)
Last edited by MR_LUV; Jul 7, 2021 at 11:12 PM.
Reason: resize pic
I'm not 100% sure Mike, but I think the frt bearing is retained by the outer race, held in place by the frt case. And the back brg with the snap-ring. But is there a thrust washer, or something in the back? (I don't see one). Maybe cause it's a ball bearing, and not a roller, it's not needed. (?) Can't wait to look further. OFN
No… it’s roller on both ends, and seated against the case on both ends..hence shims are in place on the shaft, the snap rings are numbered.. which = to measure case height and shaft / bearing length spec’s fitment.
No pilot bearing, and maybe that's part of problem. Is there way to add pilot bearing? Would help centre input shaft on crank and reduce load on input bearing.
Not the problem, I am certain! And adding a pilot bearing might help support, but will the input shaft have enough room to add??? Dunno? Good idea, but the input shaft is supported on the case halves, and if it’s too tight when you assemble the input shaft with all necessary items, you have to measure that height, and then take the case halves and torque to pre assembly task and measure it, compare it to the to the yo yo yo spec. It’s in the ProDemand software
Hi guys! I have a bad input shaft bearing too. Bought my car in 2013 from a garage that buys wrecked cars and rebuild to sell back. A local one with a good rep. I knew I wouldn't have any Toyota warranty on it but I thought my money was on a sure bet with a Toyota (lol).
Garage still offered a warranty on it. Mine was only cosmetic damage, i wouldn't have gone with undercarriage wrecks or ripped wheels or anything. Anyway, bought it at 8000 kms.
@ 12 000 km i noticed the noise in my garage, closed spaces were the only way you could hear it at that point. Didn't think much of it until i read online it was the input shaft bearing and you needed to open up the tranny to get it replaced.
Liked the car and decided to buy a winter beater to keep it away from Canadian winters and salt. The beater paid itself in a lil over a year due to insurance savings. (i was 19 at the time)
@40 000 kms I replaced the oil with royal purple syncromesh 75w90 it felt a lil better on the shifts at cold temps
@60 000 kms the bearing noise was noticeable at all times but not very annoying or anything, a non-car person wouldn't notice unless i point it out also the car refuses to shift at -25 to -30 ish degrees Celsius until it's warmed up 2-5 mins,
I don't know any other cars that do that. I didn't care too much i was only starting it in the winter to get the fluids going a bit, never drove it very far (only fresh snow if there was any, no salt)
@80 000 kms that supercharger though there's no hiding from it, getting paranoid over stares at the drive-thru, dunno if they like the car or wondering about the noise. The shifts are affected pretty noticeably too.
@104 000 kms last month on a road trip the bearing actually started to sound like soft intermittent engine knock. Yep it's at the eleventh hour for that bearing. Driving the beater around now until I finalize the swap (pics) and receive the transmission oil:
some Motul 300 LS, it's made for transaxle transmissions with an LSD inside. OS Giken recommends that type and a few other ones.
OS Giken LSD, ACT lightweight flywheel, ACT stage 1 pressure plate & clutch (350hp rated), Torque solutions front engine mount and MTEC Shifter spring
And this is the transmission that's going in:
2533 Canadian Pesos in parts, 3871 total
Bought it from a Toyota Tech that used to have a tC, super nice guy, he messaged me a few times to know about progress, I plan on letting him know how i feel about it once it's in. In case you didn't notice, that's a bill from Toyota,
I kept the header of the bill out of the shot to safe keep buddy's info. Part numbers are listed.
The diff still needs to go in, I'll get it done at a reputable shop and ask to inspect the internals as best as they can but i doubt they can verify much. No noise from that transmission just a bit of a hesitation from 1st to 2nd.
This thread really motivated me to attempt working on the internals if any other issues ever arise from the transmission. Initially I was just planning on selling the car if it didn't work out.
Here's a vid i shot in 2016 from right above the transmission, quite noisy when you're so close to it. Not so bad in the car.
if you have kit part# AISIN CKT-072 it comes with it:
I bought the ACT Clutch kit came kind thats in the picture of the post i originally quoted but it didnt come with a release bearing. Is there a bearing i can use with that kit or what do i have to do because i cant find one from ACT.
Nooo, I mean the input shaft bearing. The throwout bearing on this car is one unit with the slave or such, and I'm replacing that anyway. If it was the tob the sound would be there when I press in the clutch as well. For me the sound goes away when the clutch is pressed in. What I'm talking about is the input shaft bearing. What ur saying is correct but not the issue I'm experiencing though. Apparently alot of the tc2s have this issue.
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You're right it is input shaft bearing not to throw out bearing because I had the same issue and my clutch still works but my input shaft bearing blew a hole out the back of my transmission so now there's a big hole there and I can see the bearing it's not the throw out bearing I know from experience and my clutch still engages but the input shaft is about to break loose from the bearings and it already punched a hole in the back of the transmission so I can see it on the driver side
Hi. Good post. Did you replace the snap ring on the back of the input shaft? How did you determine the thickness of the snap ring? Do you know where I can find a manual for the EB60 tr. I am in the middle of rebuilding mine.
Thanks,
Hi. Good post. Did you replace the snap ring on the back of the input shaft? How did you determine the thickness of the snap ring? Do you know where I can find a manual for the EB60 tr. I am in the middle of rebuilding mine.
Thanks,
My snap ring had a number pressed in it “5” I just replaced it with a new snap ring labeled “5”. I went on a website called Toyota parts deal and plugged in my vin and found it from there. There’s a bunch of different snap rings so you just have to match yours with a new one. As far as manuals go I just used YouTube and a few online manuals I got through my work.
Last edited by Matt_tc2; Dec 14, 2022 at 02:07 AM.
Thank you for your response. I saw the number 5 on my snap ring as well. I will go to the dealer tomorrow and see if one is available. Do you know the torque requirements for the flywheel, pressure plate and transmission internal components? Thanks again.
throwout bearing
there's no hiding from it, getting paranoid over stares at the drive-thru, dunno if they like the car or wondering about the noise. The shifts are affected pretty noticeably too.
