Building my own custom sub enclosure for cubby-holes
Good news.
First one is done. It sounds so much better than the MDF box I had before. I was really surprised what a difference it made.
A few more production photos:
Mounted the ring of MDF using wooden dowels and "professional" strength hot glue. I made the MDF ring recessed so my sub would sit flush in the box.

I should have taken more pictures, but after working for two or so hours after I get home I'm usually pretty tired. After mounting the ring, stretch some fleece over the ring and glue it to the fiberglass back, then brush on resin and let it dry. After it's hard, layer fiberglass mat inside the box on the fleece (front) to reinforce. Once the entire box is assembled, apply plenty of body filler and then sand sand sand to get a smooth surface. Clean dust off with denatured alcohol and a tack cloth when ready to prime. I used a filler primer to make sure I had no holes or low spots in the box. After primer is applied, you guessed it, sand more. I can't stress enough how important prep work is throughout this entire project.

Sanding inside the ring, removing excess fiberglass, pre-drilling holes and more have to be done before uphosltering/painting.
Here's what we've all been waiting for :



First one is done. It sounds so much better than the MDF box I had before. I was really surprised what a difference it made.
A few more production photos:
Mounted the ring of MDF using wooden dowels and "professional" strength hot glue. I made the MDF ring recessed so my sub would sit flush in the box.

I should have taken more pictures, but after working for two or so hours after I get home I'm usually pretty tired. After mounting the ring, stretch some fleece over the ring and glue it to the fiberglass back, then brush on resin and let it dry. After it's hard, layer fiberglass mat inside the box on the fleece (front) to reinforce. Once the entire box is assembled, apply plenty of body filler and then sand sand sand to get a smooth surface. Clean dust off with denatured alcohol and a tack cloth when ready to prime. I used a filler primer to make sure I had no holes or low spots in the box. After primer is applied, you guessed it, sand more. I can't stress enough how important prep work is throughout this entire project.

Sanding inside the ring, removing excess fiberglass, pre-drilling holes and more have to be done before uphosltering/painting.
Here's what we've all been waiting for :



Thanks for the positive responses. I was going to start on the mold for the other side and try to get my other one done by this weekend so I could try and make the first pair to send out by the end of next week, but on my way to class my transmission wouldn't shift into 2nd, 4th or 6th gears so I had to drop my car off at the dealership. Cant make a mold without the car, so everything's on hold until I get it back.
A flat sheet of fiberglass, unless ridiculously thick, will be weaker than a flat sheet of MDF. When fiberglass takes on rounded or curved shapes it becomes exponentially stronger, think about the hulls of boats, they are curved, very strong and completely fiberglass.
The strength of fiberglass depends on its geometry. The more curves a fiberglass structure has the stronger it is. This box is much stronger than a cubical box made from MDF. Yeah, it's a sealed box, not ported.
A flat sheet of fiberglass, unless ridiculously thick, will be weaker than a flat sheet of MDF. When fiberglass takes on rounded or curved shapes it becomes exponentially stronger, think about the hulls of boats, they are curved, very strong and completely fiberglass.
A flat sheet of fiberglass, unless ridiculously thick, will be weaker than a flat sheet of MDF. When fiberglass takes on rounded or curved shapes it becomes exponentially stronger, think about the hulls of boats, they are curved, very strong and completely fiberglass.






... just curious tho how durable is fiberglass sub enclosure compared to typical mdf application and is this fully sealed box?