KILLER

Guys I know this might be discussed before but I have 2 questions.

On the 2012+ TC rear calipers, do I need the tool that twists and pushes the piston back? I am planning on using the square on the image below


Also, when I installed my H&R spacers I had to remove the caliper and pads. When I put the pads back in I left off the back metal plates. Are these needed? My brakes now squeal when coming to stops. Could it be the metal plates or is it something else causing the squeal?

Red2014tC

The metal plates are to prevent squealing yes, put them back in and it should be fine. As for what tool to use, I have not had mine off yet so I'm not sure.

KidJustin

i just use a c clamp.

when i change my brake pads i use the old pad and put it over the piston so that there is even force pushing it down. then just use a c clamp over the old pad and the caliper, tighten until the piston is in

KILLER

For the front piston this will work but not for the rear.
It looks compleately diffrent

draxcaliber

Becareful, I remember I squeezed too hard and killed the caliper by tearing the seal around the piston.

russiankid

rear caliper screws in due to the e-brake mechanism inside. I've personally never used a tool, a pair of needle nose pliers has always worked for me.

Also, as draxcaliber mentioned, don't go too fast and force it.

jlmd

You will need the tool to spin back the calliper pistons on the rear. That block type tool will usually work as long as the piston isn't all the way out in the case of fully worn out pads.

With the your pad shims removed you are asking for squealing noises. You should reinstall them with a high quality pad/shim grease between the back of the pad and the shims. Should be your first step in fixing your noise. I would suspect it is your problem.

KILLER

Thanks jlmd. Good answer. I did used the square to do the read pads.
Worked perfectly witb the 3/8 ratchet. It is twist and push on the rear piston.
I also put back the plates on the pads and the noise went away.

jlmd

Good to hear!