Request for Confirmation and Assistance...
I am left therefore with some [albeit limited] options;
1] Sell the wheels to an alternate user [and purchase a subsequent set],
2] Leverage the use of a spacer [varied and intense opinions as above-noted], Or
3] Simply continue using the current RPF1s
Now - one point of simplification; If I do in fact leverage a 10mm spacer on a 48+ offset, is this not closer to the 39+ offset from the manufacturer [with some tolerance and variation in the spacer itself]? And therefore, is the discussion and complexity around [lateral and proximal] load transfer to the bearings a relatively minor complication?
Regards,
Low_ETs
1] Sell the wheels to an alternate user [and purchase a subsequent set],
2] Leverage the use of a spacer [varied and intense opinions as above-noted], Or
3] Simply continue using the current RPF1s
Now - one point of simplification; If I do in fact leverage a 10mm spacer on a 48+ offset, is this not closer to the 39+ offset from the manufacturer [with some tolerance and variation in the spacer itself]? And therefore, is the discussion and complexity around [lateral and proximal] load transfer to the bearings a relatively minor complication?
Regards,
Low_ETs
This is a useful little tool for everyone: Click here.
If you are keeping score, one of my best mods to my car came from 1stOne…he posted pictures of putting F-Sport wheels on his car…I copied him. Thanks 1stOne! Great post! I benefited from that.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=195664
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=195664
This whole discussion about offset and the effects it can have on this and that could go on forever. Yes, I understand there are stresses and never stated that there wouldn't be. The additional forces applied to the vehicle hub are minimal at best. Even in extreme cases, the mileage life of the bearings would be reduced by such an insignificant number, that it is likely that no one here would ever notice they wore out "premature". Not to mention there are a million other things that effect bearing wear outside of offset, such as driving style, road conditions, weather conditions, general maintenance practices, alginment settings, etc, etc. The list goes on and on.
So again, as everyone here should know by now, modifying your car has both it's pros and cons. Where you may gain in one area, you sacrifice in another. For example, forced induction. While your car may make significantly more power, the life expectancy of internal components may be drastically reduced. Does this deter people? No. The same for wheels, springs, etc. While your car may handle better, you run the risk of wearing out bearings/bushings faster than you would had you just left it alone. However, with all this bickering back and forth, the amount at which it could wear and the time it could take cannot be measured by normal means. It's a trial and error thing, and no amount of education supporting that case will change that.
I mean we are here looking only at offset and the impression is that offset must be within +/- 1mm from stock. For those under this belief, explain how the TRD Wheels, engineered by Toyota for this vehicle are 4mm different than factory (+35 versus +39)? The one thing being over looked here is while offset is important at defining distance from the center of the wheel, it doesn't work with width. That's where backspacing comes into play (yay).
I'll keep this short. Backspacing is the measurement from the back of the wheel to the face of the hub. For example, if you had a 0 offset wheel which was 8" wide, your back spacing would be 4" (super rough, just for the idea). So, for all these wheels being referenced in this discussion, what is the backspacing?
Stock:
18x7.5" +39 Offset = ~5.8" Backspacing
Other:
(TRD) 19x8" +35 Offset = ~5.9" Backspacing
(F-Sport Rear) 19x9" +40 Offset = ~6.6" Backspacing
(Enkei RPF1) 18x9.5" +45 Offset = ~7.0" Backspacing
Notice they are all different? Notice the offsets?
My point is that while you can match your offset perfectly to stock, you may still be increasing the stress on the hub/bearings by running a wider wheel. In this case, 2tCornot2tC runs a 9" wide wheel. While his offset is the same, his wheels are actually 0.8" wider from the hub to the back of the wheel, therefore increasing the stress on the bearings/hub by altering the point at which the suspension transfers load to the road. I'm no different.
My point is, while you can match all these little figures to the "T", your still modifying something and there will always be pros and cons. To what extent you take them is on you, but none of the forces applied here by changing wheel offset, backspacing, weight, tire, rolling diameter, etc, will adversely affect your vehicle in a catastrophic manner.
The whole discussion on spacers is another thing. I agree that running the correct fitting wheel is best, but a really good spacer is not "unsafe" by any means. There are plently of track cars that use these today for moderate correction of vehicle dynamics. If done properly, they can be just as safe as a correct fitting wheel.
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