Perfomance chip experince
The guy paid too much for a resistor, granted. But before you go comparing the Cam-Con to this "mod", YOU should figure out what you're talking about. While they both yield the net effect of a few more horsepower, they work much differently. The IAT mod doesn't change timing. It simply modifies the sensor value from the IAT. The Cam-Con has nothing to do with the IAT sensor. It interfaces with the VVT-i and alters timing maps. If they worked the same, then why do you have to run premium with the Cam-Con, not with the resistor?
Reference: http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/pr...con/camcon.htm
You really do get what you pay for.
Mike
Reference: http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/pr...con/camcon.htm
You really do get what you pay for.
Mike
Dear Pimp Sling,
I never mentioned any brand names when comparing the IAT mod with any thing, if I did, where is it written? And yes, the IAT mod does changes the timing, ignition timing at start up is advanced more than when she is warm and running. Check your basic automotive technology. And yes you do run a higher octane gas with the mod, to get the most out of it. You see with the timing advanced it will have more of a tendency to knock and ping, causing the knock sensor to retard the timing.
You see I got tired of all of the people saying that they do not work, so I tested a few different ones to see if they didn't. Wrong, they do work ( by the way some racers have used this mod many, many times)
I tested, for those that are going to say I don't know what I was doing, in this way:
I ran without for 1 tank of gas, with an OBDII reader conected, installed the first, ran for another tank, again with the old OBDII and my computer connected to watch the ECU values. Ran another tank, w/o it installed, and on and on for each "mod". In this way I got a base value ( w/o mod) to compare what , if anything the mod did.
Just so you know, I spent 13 years working for in R&D for the military electronics weapons department. And another 12 for a company, again R&D electronic computer and wafer fab ( we made the capitol equipment that made "chips"). So I know how to run a test.
You are right on one thing, you do get what you pay for. If someone wants to pay more than nessary for a resistor, remember your paying for R&D. If it works, why not try it? Doesn't hurt anything in the motor unless the resistor is of a wrong value or is connected wrong.
So , as I so lightly put it before, If you have not tested or had the ********* to try one personally, don't down talk them. And the piggy back systems all just fool our ECUs, seems you for got that unless you run a stand alone thats how they work.
As I said earlier, just let this thread die, it has been run to death by folks that do not try anything new, they just copy what everyone else is doing.
I never mentioned any brand names when comparing the IAT mod with any thing, if I did, where is it written? And yes, the IAT mod does changes the timing, ignition timing at start up is advanced more than when she is warm and running. Check your basic automotive technology. And yes you do run a higher octane gas with the mod, to get the most out of it. You see with the timing advanced it will have more of a tendency to knock and ping, causing the knock sensor to retard the timing.
You see I got tired of all of the people saying that they do not work, so I tested a few different ones to see if they didn't. Wrong, they do work ( by the way some racers have used this mod many, many times)
I tested, for those that are going to say I don't know what I was doing, in this way:
I ran without for 1 tank of gas, with an OBDII reader conected, installed the first, ran for another tank, again with the old OBDII and my computer connected to watch the ECU values. Ran another tank, w/o it installed, and on and on for each "mod". In this way I got a base value ( w/o mod) to compare what , if anything the mod did.
Just so you know, I spent 13 years working for in R&D for the military electronics weapons department. And another 12 for a company, again R&D electronic computer and wafer fab ( we made the capitol equipment that made "chips"). So I know how to run a test.
You are right on one thing, you do get what you pay for. If someone wants to pay more than nessary for a resistor, remember your paying for R&D. If it works, why not try it? Doesn't hurt anything in the motor unless the resistor is of a wrong value or is connected wrong.
So , as I so lightly put it before, If you have not tested or had the ********* to try one personally, don't down talk them. And the piggy back systems all just fool our ECUs, seems you for got that unless you run a stand alone thats how they work.
As I said earlier, just let this thread die, it has been run to death by folks that do not try anything new, they just copy what everyone else is doing.
I think you're referring to the ECT (coolant temp) when the ignition timing is advanced on startup. The IAT is the intake air temperature. Both affect how the computer calculates timing.
Lower coolant temp or lower IAT temp means the computer will increase timing (but by how much?)
Although the IAT mod is a "rigged" mod, it will still increase timing. The computer assumes the temp given to it by the IAT sensor is correct. Of course this assumes you know how much timing you will get compared to how much you drop the value of the temperature.
Like frogbox said, you'll probably just cause it to ping/knock unless you run higher octane.
Lower coolant temp or lower IAT temp means the computer will increase timing (but by how much?)
Although the IAT mod is a "rigged" mod, it will still increase timing. The computer assumes the temp given to it by the IAT sensor is correct. Of course this assumes you know how much timing you will get compared to how much you drop the value of the temperature.
Like frogbox said, you'll probably just cause it to ping/knock unless you run higher octane.
Frogbox,
I'm not trying to start a war here or anything. Just from reading your post, it seemed that you were doing an apples to apples comparison of "( you all know the name but because it is cheaper you think they work differently, they don't)" with the ebay mod. The only purpose of my post was to point out that the Cam-Con, which I can only assume you were referring to, is a much more in-depth modification. Because of the degree of control it has over timing maps, it seems to be a much more effective tool than simply modifying one sensor. But to be honest, I don't have either mod, and I'm not really interested in trying them. Rather have my 35 mpg. I really do respect the work you did testing them though, and I'm by no means calling you a liar, or trying to discredit you. I apologize for coming off rough on my last post, blame it on a bad day at work. And with that, I let this thread die. We'll see if everyone else can.
Mike
I'm not trying to start a war here or anything. Just from reading your post, it seemed that you were doing an apples to apples comparison of "( you all know the name but because it is cheaper you think they work differently, they don't)" with the ebay mod. The only purpose of my post was to point out that the Cam-Con, which I can only assume you were referring to, is a much more in-depth modification. Because of the degree of control it has over timing maps, it seems to be a much more effective tool than simply modifying one sensor. But to be honest, I don't have either mod, and I'm not really interested in trying them. Rather have my 35 mpg. I really do respect the work you did testing them though, and I'm by no means calling you a liar, or trying to discredit you. I apologize for coming off rough on my last post, blame it on a bad day at work. And with that, I let this thread die. We'll see if everyone else can.
Mike
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