Something is not right.....
10-01-2005, 05:49 PM
#3
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I launched at 2000 rpm, anything more and you would start smelling clutch lol.
I am at a loss for words. I really thought it would end up lower 17's upper 16's. But 18 is rediculous. Makes me think there is something up with my Supercharger.
I am at a loss for words. I really thought it would end up lower 17's upper 16's. But 18 is rediculous. Makes me think there is something up with my Supercharger.
10-01-2005, 06:09 PM
#5
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What do you think the problem could be though? I have a camcon sitting on my shelf here but I am debating even using it cause of what I keep reading about the ECM resetting itself.
There is just no way this thing should be running that slow.
Someone has the time to chat, look me up on Yahoo messenger under the name: scionxb4tw
I could use some help!
There is just no way this thing should be running that slow.
Someone has the time to chat, look me up on Yahoo messenger under the name: scionxb4tw
I could use some help!
10-02-2005, 05:55 AM
#9
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From your profile you have a lot of extra weight in your box, that could slow you down.
What octane and how much on board?( more gas more weight)
What tires you run with? air presure ?
Did you re-set your ECU before the run?
What plugs you using? Are they clean, gapped correctly for the purpose?
All these and a few more will effect run time and speed. Maybe there is an answer with one of these. Sometimes we all forget some little thing and looking at it again gives us a clue.
What octane and how much on board?( more gas more weight)
What tires you run with? air presure ?
Did you re-set your ECU before the run?
What plugs you using? Are they clean, gapped correctly for the purpose?
All these and a few more will effect run time and speed. Maybe there is an answer with one of these. Sometimes we all forget some little thing and looking at it again gives us a clue.
10-02-2005, 01:00 PM
#10
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Yeah, there are a few things to consider.
1.) your 60' foot time is horrible, this is one place to make the BIGGEST difference. If your sitting and spinning the tires it will really hurt you. Every .1 tenth in the 60' is about .2 at the end.
2.) What wheels are on your ride? When your dealing with such a limited amount of HP, heavier wheels will REALLY kill it's ability to get off the line and get going.
3.) I do not know what gap the plugs on the xB are at from the factory, but one thing to remember with boost is there is a lot more air flowing into the chamber and if your gap is too big, it can cause big issues. On a forced induction car you want to run a tighter gap. What is stock and what are you at? Boost also loves copper plugs such as Autolite's. THey are even cheap as $1 a piece or so. Ran them in my SSEi always and never had an issue.
4.) your Auto is not setup to properly take advantage of this motor. On a stick it will stay above 3 or so thousand when you dump into the next gear keeping it in it's power band. I am figuring the auto doesn't do so well and your spending a lot of time getting to the top of the gear. Light weight crank pulley and fly wheel along with a higher stall Torque Converter would help this a lot.
5.) One thing I always see people say is 'your reaction time was horrible', in test and tune racing reaction time plays NO part in your 1/4 time. You can sit there for an hour and make your run and there will be no difference. Make sure you get to the line, Power break to as high as you can before the breaks can't hold it anymore, and let off the break and mash the gas.
6.) Make sure your car is empty, your on light rims, and you inflate the rear tires to max psi, leave the fronts how they are, IF traction is an issue, start to lower the PSI 3-4 lbs until you find the sweet spot. The lower the PSI the more drag on the car, but you have to find the happy medium between a good launch and a bit slower back end of the track due to low psi in the tires.
Make sense?
All else fails, get some slicks and do what I do in my Bonneville:
My AIM is boogieqJBOX and ICQ is 8180067. Most of my knowledge is in the 3800 Series 2 Supercharged V6 land, but most things roll over to here. Just bought my xB, I want to hit a track stock and see what I can get out of it.
1.) your 60' foot time is horrible, this is one place to make the BIGGEST difference. If your sitting and spinning the tires it will really hurt you. Every .1 tenth in the 60' is about .2 at the end.
2.) What wheels are on your ride? When your dealing with such a limited amount of HP, heavier wheels will REALLY kill it's ability to get off the line and get going.
3.) I do not know what gap the plugs on the xB are at from the factory, but one thing to remember with boost is there is a lot more air flowing into the chamber and if your gap is too big, it can cause big issues. On a forced induction car you want to run a tighter gap. What is stock and what are you at? Boost also loves copper plugs such as Autolite's. THey are even cheap as $1 a piece or so. Ran them in my SSEi always and never had an issue.
4.) your Auto is not setup to properly take advantage of this motor. On a stick it will stay above 3 or so thousand when you dump into the next gear keeping it in it's power band. I am figuring the auto doesn't do so well and your spending a lot of time getting to the top of the gear. Light weight crank pulley and fly wheel along with a higher stall Torque Converter would help this a lot.
5.) One thing I always see people say is 'your reaction time was horrible', in test and tune racing reaction time plays NO part in your 1/4 time. You can sit there for an hour and make your run and there will be no difference. Make sure you get to the line, Power break to as high as you can before the breaks can't hold it anymore, and let off the break and mash the gas.
6.) Make sure your car is empty, your on light rims, and you inflate the rear tires to max psi, leave the fronts how they are, IF traction is an issue, start to lower the PSI 3-4 lbs until you find the sweet spot. The lower the PSI the more drag on the car, but you have to find the happy medium between a good launch and a bit slower back end of the track due to low psi in the tires.
Make sense?
All else fails, get some slicks and do what I do in my Bonneville:
My AIM is boogieqJBOX and ICQ is 8180067. Most of my knowledge is in the 3800 Series 2 Supercharged V6 land, but most things roll over to here. Just bought my xB, I want to hit a track stock and see what I can get out of it.
10-02-2005, 01:20 PM
#11
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response to track time.......
xBtuner,
I have had some problem in the same respect....I started with a 5 speed xB, aded aem cold air intake, not the toyota one, it slows you down more.......i ran a 17.3 1/4 all runs were a about the same 17.4 1/4 was the worst......I then added a new set of \
kobe 17x7 rims with 205/40R/17 tires and now i run 17. 5 1/4 to a worst of 17.6 1/4 this was all done on hot evening high humidity in florida so.......i hope i will do better soon when we get some cool dry air.......Next time out i'm going to put on the stock wheels and see if that's my problem....I do have a grounding kit...and Greddy evo axle back on it too after the good times.....it could be one of two things heavy larger wheels and the ten ton greddy fart can on the back end......but hey it sounds and looks good......You should with a super charger be getting way better.....but my guess is fuel pump perhaps......? Fuel rail ? .....Or both ! Good luck fixing it........I'll perhaps post my time slips to prove my claims if needed......
I have had some problem in the same respect....I started with a 5 speed xB, aded aem cold air intake, not the toyota one, it slows you down more.......i ran a 17.3 1/4 all runs were a about the same 17.4 1/4 was the worst......I then added a new set of \
kobe 17x7 rims with 205/40R/17 tires and now i run 17. 5 1/4 to a worst of 17.6 1/4 this was all done on hot evening high humidity in florida so.......i hope i will do better soon when we get some cool dry air.......Next time out i'm going to put on the stock wheels and see if that's my problem....I do have a grounding kit...and Greddy evo axle back on it too after the good times.....it could be one of two things heavy larger wheels and the ten ton greddy fart can on the back end......but hey it sounds and looks good......You should with a super charger be getting way better.....but my guess is fuel pump perhaps......? Fuel rail ? .....Or both ! Good luck fixing it........I'll perhaps post my time slips to prove my claims if needed......
10-02-2005, 01:33 PM
#12
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Oh yeah, you might want to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure and make sure your PSI stays up. Again, just learning about these cars, but you want your Fuel PSI to go up by 1 PSI for every LB of boost you push, so lets say (these are NOT real figures) that stock PSI is 50 at wide open throttle. If your pushing 10lbs of boost, you would want to see it at 60PSI when your Wide Open to ensure proper fuel delivery.
You also want to make sure your intake piping is very smooth to allow even flow over the MAF sensor (mass air flow) so it knows just how much air is coming in and it can adjust fuel pressure or injector pulse width as needed.
Do our cars have a stock adjustable fuel pressure regulator? If not, you may need one to control the PSI at WOT as stated above.
The nice thing about the 3800 world I come from is we have scanners and tuners to where we can plug in to the OBDII port and monitor every function of the car and also have the ability to rewrite the whole PCM program for different injectors, more / less timing, etc. If you really want the most out of your ride you need to know what the comptuer is seeing and doing!! Does that ability exist for this market? I have yet to see anyone mention it.
For all we know, you could be running so rich the motor won't make any power, or perhaps so lean the PCM (powertrain control module) is pulling all your spark timing and really killing the power. Each degree of timing is roughly worth 1-3hp depending on application. The computer could be pulling so much timing it is basically offsetting any gain you would get from the blower.
As such, I know these cars have vvt-i.... how does the computer adjust that in regards to boost? Do we have any way to control it externally with a programmer or some sort of adjustment tool? This would be KEY in getting them most out of the motor.
As a side note, remember blowers make a ton of hot air, the hotter it gets the more chance for knock.. have you tried running at a lower boost setting like 3lbs just to see how it reacts?
*** CLIFF NOTES *** we need a way to watch what the computer is doing durring your runs, how it is setting your timing, fuel, the vvt-i system, etc. IF we have a way to do that point me to it and I am probably going to have to get one. IF NOT, then that is a HUGE road block into getting forced induction under control on this car.
I was able to pull over 25hp out of my SSEi on tuning alone by changing computer parameters for better timing and fuel curves.
Sorry to be asking so many questions, I am a power freak and this car is still fun with a manual but I want more out of it.. Just trying to get the skinny!!
You also want to make sure your intake piping is very smooth to allow even flow over the MAF sensor (mass air flow) so it knows just how much air is coming in and it can adjust fuel pressure or injector pulse width as needed.
Do our cars have a stock adjustable fuel pressure regulator? If not, you may need one to control the PSI at WOT as stated above.
The nice thing about the 3800 world I come from is we have scanners and tuners to where we can plug in to the OBDII port and monitor every function of the car and also have the ability to rewrite the whole PCM program for different injectors, more / less timing, etc. If you really want the most out of your ride you need to know what the comptuer is seeing and doing!! Does that ability exist for this market? I have yet to see anyone mention it.
For all we know, you could be running so rich the motor won't make any power, or perhaps so lean the PCM (powertrain control module) is pulling all your spark timing and really killing the power. Each degree of timing is roughly worth 1-3hp depending on application. The computer could be pulling so much timing it is basically offsetting any gain you would get from the blower.
As such, I know these cars have vvt-i.... how does the computer adjust that in regards to boost? Do we have any way to control it externally with a programmer or some sort of adjustment tool? This would be KEY in getting them most out of the motor.
As a side note, remember blowers make a ton of hot air, the hotter it gets the more chance for knock.. have you tried running at a lower boost setting like 3lbs just to see how it reacts?
*** CLIFF NOTES *** we need a way to watch what the computer is doing durring your runs, how it is setting your timing, fuel, the vvt-i system, etc. IF we have a way to do that point me to it and I am probably going to have to get one. IF NOT, then that is a HUGE road block into getting forced induction under control on this car.
I was able to pull over 25hp out of my SSEi on tuning alone by changing computer parameters for better timing and fuel curves.
Sorry to be asking so many questions, I am a power freak and this car is still fun with a manual but I want more out of it.. Just trying to get the skinny!!
10-02-2005, 01:50 PM
#13
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He has already ordered some new 15" Rotas, selling his 17's soon.
Next time he goes I will most likely go with him so we can get some comparisons. I have a 5 speed with Strup header / exhaust and K&N cai.
Next time he goes I will most likely go with him so we can get some comparisons. I have a 5 speed with Strup header / exhaust and K&N cai.
10-02-2005, 03:14 PM
#15
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No offense but the rt time could have been better, shows I read before making any comments.
But I did forget to mention, did you run with TRAC OFF ? or on?
We do have smart/stupid cars that try to save us but sometimes it gets in the way.
I had a problem with the trac when I hit the juice button on mine, turned it off and she did what she was supposed to.
But I did forget to mention, did you run with TRAC OFF ? or on?
We do have smart/stupid cars that try to save us but sometimes it gets in the way.
I had a problem with the trac when I hit the juice button on mine, turned it off and she did what she was supposed to.
10-02-2005, 03:53 PM
#16
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Ok, let's see how many of these I can answer without scrolling lol.
I pulled the fuse to reset at the track and I did not realize I pulled the wrong one, so I goofed. Yesterday I reset with both EFI fuses and noticed a big increase in power. Ran consistent 8lbs with a 9-10 lbs spike. Granted, this was not on the track......
Also, I am running Bosch Platinum +4 plugs. Blitz suggested iridium plugs but could not find them in town.
I am running 17's but I just ordered Rota 15's, should shave about 15-18 lbs per wheel and reduce rotational mass of course.
Traction Control was off of course
We don't have a fuel pressure regulator on our car but I have looked at purchasing one as they are pretty cheap. I am not sure if I really need fuel rail, injectors, and fuel pump yet.
R/T did not matter, it was a test and tune night. Wasn't even sweating that!
I launched at about 1800 RPM and just had a chirp from the tires, did not light them up.
Yes, I did not remove my sub box from the car, that was probably an added 50lbs. I was thinking about stripping out the passenger seat as well for some added weight loss. Maybe next time.
I am running 91 Octane, but I am thinking of boosting that next Friday at the drags and make sure I reset my ECM.
I am running G-Force tires, 205/40/17, normal pressure
Thanks for all the response guys. Truly appreciate it.
I pulled the fuse to reset at the track and I did not realize I pulled the wrong one, so I goofed. Yesterday I reset with both EFI fuses and noticed a big increase in power. Ran consistent 8lbs with a 9-10 lbs spike. Granted, this was not on the track......
Also, I am running Bosch Platinum +4 plugs. Blitz suggested iridium plugs but could not find them in town.
I am running 17's but I just ordered Rota 15's, should shave about 15-18 lbs per wheel and reduce rotational mass of course.
Traction Control was off of course
We don't have a fuel pressure regulator on our car but I have looked at purchasing one as they are pretty cheap. I am not sure if I really need fuel rail, injectors, and fuel pump yet.
R/T did not matter, it was a test and tune night. Wasn't even sweating that!
I launched at about 1800 RPM and just had a chirp from the tires, did not light them up.
Yes, I did not remove my sub box from the car, that was probably an added 50lbs. I was thinking about stripping out the passenger seat as well for some added weight loss. Maybe next time.
I am running 91 Octane, but I am thinking of boosting that next Friday at the drags and make sure I reset my ECM.
I am running G-Force tires, 205/40/17, normal pressure
Thanks for all the response guys. Truly appreciate it.
10-02-2005, 04:29 PM
#17
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Your Welcome.
Just trying to point out little reminders just to get you to look at, again.
We do have a fuel pressure regulator, it's in the tank attached to the pump.But without it the pump won't work, sorta built into/onto it.
Wish you luck ! I have been thinking about the Blitz S/C for my box, heard good things about it.
Just trying to point out little reminders just to get you to look at, again.
We do have a fuel pressure regulator, it's in the tank attached to the pump.But without it the pump won't work, sorta built into/onto it.
Wish you luck ! I have been thinking about the Blitz S/C for my box, heard good things about it.
10-05-2005, 02:52 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by frogbox
No offense but the rt time could have been better, shows I read before making any comments.
But I did forget to mention, did you run with TRAC OFF ? or on?
We do have smart/stupid cars that try to save us but sometimes it gets in the way.
I had a problem with the trac when I hit the juice button on mine, turned it off and she did what she was supposed to.
But I did forget to mention, did you run with TRAC OFF ? or on?
We do have smart/stupid cars that try to save us but sometimes it gets in the way.
I had a problem with the trac when I hit the juice button on mine, turned it off and she did what she was supposed to.
No offense taken that why they call it TEST & TUNE ........No pressure just practice. I thought for an ammature light tree with a 500 light mine weren't too bad.........But i guess they were.......My next Test & Tune i'm going to shoot for R/T. Thanks.
10-05-2005, 02:57 AM
#19
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I was planning to go to the track this Friday nite, but will not go until I get my 15's. Hopefully next Friday I will be ready to try this all again.
I am also suppose to get with a friend to get my camcon installed and see if it does anything at all then hit a dyno that weekend as well.
Things to come......... I hope!
I am also suppose to get with a friend to get my camcon installed and see if it does anything at all then hit a dyno that weekend as well.
Things to come......... I hope!
