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What Kind of Engine Should I Get?

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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 05:45 AM
  #1  
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Default What Kind of Engine Should I Get?

So I have an '05 xb and I'm wanting more power, right now my engine is stock except for an intake... but when I say I want more power I want to pull up beside another import and they say oh its just a box... and then I lay on the gas and and leave them in the dust. So to be honest I don't know much about engines but I've been talking to my car club members and a few others from different clubs and some say to get a turbo and some say to get a supercharger ... but a few have said that the turbo and supercharges could only get me so far... and I'm wanting something in the 250hp range... so one of my friends said that I should look into doing an engine swap and he sujested a 41-GE 20 Valve Black Top then adding a supercharger or a trubo... I dont mind sinking money into the box so this is a great idea... just how much work will this envolve cause I know already that Ill have to push the firewall back... And If any of you have a better idea of what kind of engine I should get let me know... but be sure to tell me what kind of hp i should expect from your engine sujestion and how much work it will be. Also where I can get the engine...
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 06:22 AM
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Yeah, if you are looking for 250hp, the turbo or supercharger isn't going to cut it for you. You would definitely need to swap for sure. I don't have a clue what would give you the best bang for the buck but I know there are some out there who have done the swaps. 250hp is a lot of poundage to lay down for our little cars. I'm sure it will eat up some of the tuners with that kind of a sleeper. If you do the swap, do it right and post up a good worklog of your research. Finding information in one place is a hell of a lot easier to work with then dredging up all the junk from multiple locations.
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 06:58 AM
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it would be easier to just buy a new car or build the engine you have for boost and go boost happy but, even so it would be easier than an engine swap. think about the room you have to work with under the hood, and also I'm not to sure but I've heard once you start having to cut firewalls the car is no longer street legal. Oh yea i don't think you should even attempt this yourself since you really don't know much about cars and you said so yourself.
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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place a Hayabusa engine in your toaster and call it a day..well maybe its not as easy as that but go for it.

Old Aug 10, 2009 | 02:22 PM
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Turbo with extensive internal work will only get you to 200 or so.
If you don't know what you're doing with cars, a swap probably isn't going to go so well... honestly, why not just sell the box and buy something that's going to get you closer to your goal without killing yourself trying to wedge something else in there?

Only a handful of people have completed functional swaps. There's a reason why everyone doesn't do it.
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 03:09 PM
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yeah welcome to the modern era where engine swaps are lot harder and more costly

unlike the old era where every thing was a lot easier and with that all you needed besides the engine and trans was a drive shaft and a transmission mount cross member...
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:42 PM
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look up 7ag, 9ag (7ag crankshaft with 4ag head and 20v bottom end with a 12:0:1 compression ratio) or if you REALLY want to fit something in the car get a 1.3 litre rotary engine...transmission would be a hassle

You could also stick with toyota stuff get a celica 6spd and a 5sfe or a 3gste (turbo MR2 motor).

All these engines should in theory fit no problem...

Now the only other problem I can think of is that it is ILLEGAL to put older engines into newer cars.

So maybe you could try the 2zz-fe (scion tc, 2nd gen Xb engine) but that will not fit and firewall would be an issue.

If you have another car to DD i say figure out a way to put in a wankel engine (rotary) maybe a 20b or a 13b Renesis (the one in the rx8 as of now) Gas mileage will suck with a rotary, redbuild every 90k...60k if pushed hard. You have to use expensive synthetic 10w-40 oil and you need a quart in your trunk every time you track it or go on long highway drive. In the winter you need to run 5w40 so getting confused might be too easy.

The only reason I am advocating this is that the engine is sooo tiny and dosn't weight a thing.

Now if you get an engine that weighs almost half as much as ours you need to get coilovers to lower the car (engine/tranny) to keep the car as planted as possible. Dont forget now that you have removed weight the car needs a lower CG (center of gravity) to remain planted to the ground.

You could also go the harder/cheaper/more reliable way and get a B18c (integra engine) or a k20 (might not fit?). a f20c or a f22 would be nice but its setup for rwd so you would have to figure out the transmission stuff on your own.

In other words...around 10-20k worth of money to put 250+ WHP in a car in which the chassis cannot handle more than 215 (in theory). You need to get a chassis brace etc...

And the other part that sucks about spending all this money is your car is that well...its FWD (fail wheel drive, wrong wheel drive) so anything xwd or rwd will spank you.

Then there's....sell your car use the 20k you woulda spent and get a 370z. Only problem with 370z..not a sleeper, overheats on the track (oil issues), expensive tires, great platform but expensive to mod (15k for a TT kit that is just about to come out) 10k for an intercooled roots style supercharger etc etc....

So if you have 20k, you like FWD, you like your box and want to keep it for a long time, keep it stock, get an ITR or a old civic with a k20a/k20c swap and have a blast.

Now if you want real performance their is an STI for sale in pennsilvania for 19,999 with mods and a pro tune with 350wtrq and 325whp (AWD). Only problem is that it is a 07 and they have massive reliability issues.

So while your idea is awesome (i was thinking the same thing) our cars arn't really that awesome. Someone let me drive their E36 m3 with 300NA RWHP and guess what...I almost crapped my pants when I realized weight dosnt really matter when you have that much power. He is selling it for 9k since he got it for 7k. Ever since I drove that, my car is just a point A to point B car until I can get a brand new, under warranty, RWD or AWD fun ___ car.

Now if you do decide to go with this, it will be awesome and mad props. Up to you bro.

GL and good regards,

Regis
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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chevy 350

http://jalopnik.com/349034/the-chevy...reotypes-logic
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 08:04 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Im-9oFNHRaI
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 08:07 PM
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Nothing you swap in will fit without doing a complete new engine bay. This means modifying the firewall, completely redoing the entire front frame and suspension, getting a whole new transmission, custom drive axles, all new plumbing, stand alone engine management, no A/C, no ABS, no airbags, etc. Also, the wiring is a royal pain.

If you're planning on driving the xB on the street and not just trailoring it to the track, keep the 1NZ-FE. If you are really serious about making power with the engine you have, Aras from our Florida Scikotics club has probably the fastest 1NZ-FE built. With a built motor and a turbo based off of the Greddy kit, he was pushing 228 whp. This was on 93 octane pump gas and methanol injection @ 16 psi. I can get you in touch with him if you want and have questions on the build. He was also running a 100 shot of nitrous on top of the 228 from the turbo, so do the math and you can smoke pretty much any ricer. Here's the highlights of his build:



Fully Built Race motor:

Darton Sleved block
Crower rods
Arias Pistons
Ferara Valves + 1 mm oversized
Ferara retainers, Lockers, springs
3 way valve job
Ported and polished head
Schneider cams
Weapon-R sheet metal intake
Obx throttle body spacer
Greddy Custom turbo kit 18G
Greddy Intercooler
Greddy type R BOV
CFT custom Exhaust manifold/ down pipe

Stand Alone ECU:

Microtech LT10 w/ Microtech Ignition and Bosch coil packs
Electromotive crank trigger

MSD wires / NGK plugs

Fuel System:

Walboro 255l , Aeromotive regulator , Perrin fuel rail ,
Aerospace Components custom fuel block for NX kit
680cc precision injectors

Snow performance methanol injection
DEI complete Cryo system

Nitrous Express 100 shot kit tps activated. auto bottle opener
w/ fire and ice cooling system for constant 1000 psi

N.B.S 2.5" custom stainless exhaust w/ Aeroturbine Resonator
and Skunk2 Can

Oil system: Perma cool

Perrin under drive pully

Level 10 5 speed transmission
Ferdenza clutch and fly wheel

Axels: Gator

TRD short shifter

Samco hoses

Greddy boost controller and timer
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 11:55 PM
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If you have the money, do a swap!
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DeiselFuel2o2
*snip*

So maybe you could try the 2zz-fe (scion tc, 2nd gen Xb engine) but that will not fit and firewall would be an issue.

*snip*
Not that it really matters in this guy's case, but the tC/xB2 is actually a 2az-fe engine.
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 01:04 AM
  #13  
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haha good point...

after naming like 10 engines it gets confusing lol...but atleast I specified what vehicle! lol

thanks
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 05:43 AM
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Pick up a Trial 3ZZ from Trial Japan, (It's a modified Celica engine, mate it to the C60 the Celica GTS comes with and swap that in. The 1ZZ/2ZZ swap is the most logical because it's of the same generation and is the easiest swap. All you have to do it notch off 1~2 inches off each frame rail, Custom mounts and good luck with your wiring.
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 06:03 AM
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So first I wanna thank everyone for their suggestions and comments and thank you especially Vettereddie for that detailed info of that guys stock xB motor (and I say stock because its the one that came with it... but its sounds far from stock lol) Also I gotta say two things... first I've done way too much work on my box to just trade it for a faster car... I love that toaster of mine... I've sunk more money into it than any girlfriend that I've had so... were down for life... lol and second the hole "street legal" thing shoot if I was worried about the law I wouldn't be riding around with 5% tinted windows and my blue LEDs on.. (I've got more lights in my box than a damn KISS concert lol) But when it comes to doing the engine swap I don't mind doing the wrench time and what I don't know how to do I'll just out source by going to a shop or getting someone who knows what they are doing and tell them that I've got a garage fridge full of beer for them if they come over and give me a hand... If your wanting to see what my box looks like just check out ItsMyScion.com page here is the url itsmyscion.com/scblackbox

Last edited by scblackbox; Aug 11, 2009 at 06:09 AM.
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 03:30 PM
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No problem. I'd strongly advocate sticking with the 1NZ-FE. It's truly just time and turning wrenches to build it with a few trips to the machine shop. Other than custom drive axles, you can get away with no modification to the engine bay, frame, suspension, etc. Aras and a few others (myself in the process) have already done the internal upgrades necessasary to make near the power you are looking for. My advice would be to build it with low compression, coated pistons, add a turbo for street use and add nitrous for the track. Greddy already makes the base turbo, just add an intercooler, bigger injectors, eManage Ultimate (Boomslang even has a plug and play harness), methanol and the engine build and you should be good to go. Ultimate lets you switch tuning maps with a push of a button, so you can run one map with pump gas, then fill at the track with race gas and nitrous to run the other map. My estimate would be about $8k depending on how much free labor you can get. With you in SC, you could probably even go visit Aras down in FL for some in-person advise.

If you want an in-depth look at what it takes to build this engine, see my tear-down tutorial. Keep in mind all this was done with a 10, 12, 14mm socket, an 8mm bihexagonal socket, and a 12mm hex. These things are pretty easy to tear down, and you can get the entire repair manual online (it's linked in the tutorial).

http://www.clubxb.com/forums/f14/diy...ild-27971.html

If you do a swap, you're looking at about $20k just for the frame and body mods, not counting engine. I think you're seriously under-estimating the ammount of work involved, and anyone compitent enough to do the job correctly is not going to just do it for a couple of beers in the fridge. You can do anything with enough time and money, but would hate to see you chop the xB to an undriveable state and then run out of $$, time, or not have the expertise available to finish.

Is the xB your only vehicle? If so, buy a second motor and do all the work needed before install to minimize down time. There will also be a period of debugging for about a week where you'll probably throw a few codes, have a minor oil leak, etc. Plan for that, not even a bolt-on turbo goes in error-free.
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 06:02 PM
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Hey Vettereddie, I was lookin on your clubxb engine tear down and saw your last picture and it reminded me of something... does your xB have a fold down wheelchair ramp in the back if it does I met you at the Scikotics Sanatrium show in Atlanta this past march... well thanks again for all of your help and just let me know if there is anything else you think I should know...
Old Aug 12, 2009 | 11:13 AM
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Yea I'm going to take you up on your offer... if you could get me Aras email address or some way of getting in touch with him...
Old Aug 15, 2009 | 04:10 AM
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From: What's in your Box...
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Originally Posted by vettereddie
Nothing you swap in will fit without doing a complete new engine bay. This means modifying the firewall, completely redoing the entire front frame and suspension, getting a whole new transmission, custom drive axles, all new plumbing, stand alone engine management, no A/C, no ABS, no airbags, etc. Also, the wiring is a royal pain.

If you're planning on driving the xB on the street and not just trailoring it to the track, keep the 1NZ-FE. If you are really serious about making power with the engine you have, Aras from our Florida Scikotics club has probably the fastest 1NZ-FE built. With a built motor and a turbo based off of the Greddy kit, he was pushing 228 whp. This was on 93 octane pump gas and methanol injection @ 16 psi. I can get you in touch with him if you want and have questions on the build. He was also running a 100 shot of nitrous on top of the 228 from the turbo, so do the math and you can smoke pretty much any ricer. Here's the highlights of his build:



Fully Built Race motor:

Darton Sleved block
Crower rods
Arias Pistons
Ferara Valves + 1 mm oversized
Ferara retainers, Lockers, springs
3 way valve job
Ported and polished head
Schneider cams
Weapon-R sheet metal intake
Obx throttle body spacer
Greddy Custom turbo kit 18G
Greddy Intercooler
Greddy type R BOV
CFT custom Exhaust manifold/ down pipe

Stand Alone ECU:

Microtech LT10 w/ Microtech Ignition and Bosch coil packs
Electromotive crank trigger

MSD wires / NGK plugs

Fuel System:

Walboro 255l , Aeromotive regulator , Perrin fuel rail ,
Aerospace Components custom fuel block for NX kit
680cc precision injectors

Snow performance methanol injection
DEI complete Cryo system

Nitrous Express 100 shot kit tps activated. auto bottle opener
w/ fire and ice cooling system for constant 1000 psi

N.B.S 2.5" custom stainless exhaust w/ Aeroturbine Resonator
and Skunk2 Can

Oil system: Perma cool

Perrin under drive pully

Level 10 5 speed transmission
Ferdenza clutch and fly wheel

Axels: Gator

TRD short shifter

Samco hoses

Greddy boost controller and timer
Correction https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...=12+sec+xbhere is the fastest Xb
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