I definately will! As long as you don't tell my current gaijin kanojo. ;)

 

Just edit your first post. You should be able to edit the title

BTW - Watching...

 

Thanks! That did it.

 

What was confusing? Its not too difficult.. But if you just create a return line without doing something to the intank static regulator, you are doing it for nothing. You wont get any gain.

The easiest way to explain how I did it, was run a line out of the end of the perrin rail, into the fuel pressure regulator that you add, then from the regulator, run a line to the tank. Instead of tapping into the filler like mentioned before, I drilled a hole into the top of the sending unit. I installed a bulkhead fitting and then the line onto the fitting...

 

Thanks Stuart! I understand how you setup the return part of it. (actually the second picture with just the bulkhead laid that one out for me personally) but, the way I meant that to come across as was 1) I didn't know if the return was the best setup for me, especially to start with if it added possible tuning issues and 2) the confusing thing is the static FPR work around. Not your setup in general. I appreciate your detailed pics and information I've read from you on here in the past. It's all been a big help. I'm sure, with me being a hands-on kind of person, it will all be that much clearer when I actually get in there to do it. Thanks again!

 

It will all come together when you get in there... If you have any questions, dont hesitate to ask

 

Good build going there jdlong, looking forward to this.

 

On the move! The hub/axle assembly, clutch, flywheel and clutch bushings go in tomorrow. I should have it back by Friday to start the "break in" period on those items. If anything majorly interesting occurs, I'll let everyone know. Otherwise the next update will be a lot more interesting.

 

This may be straying slightly from F/I but overall it's going to be supporting my F/I so ...

Well, the first issue that I caused all on my own has to do with trans fluid. I've read all the posts on here about the subject and am a little worried now about my choice.

I am switching to synthetic and no one in my area sells the "good stuff." I would have to order it and didn't want to wait on that. I looked at Redline MT-90 and Amsoil. I have a race shop here in town that sells Amsoil but they had AT fluid. So the guy sold me Amsoil Synthetic Gear Lube 80w - 90. He said it's what they run in all their race cars.

Well, then I get back here and start researching that some more and came across some potentially frightening info. Seems that what I got is GL-5 and although our XB's can support GL-4 and GL-5 according to the manual, people say that GL-5 has adverse effects. Some have said that our synchros have copper and that something in the GL-5 (sulphar) reacts to this and over time weakens the synchros.

I don't want to do something that will do damage and I'm only talking 30 bucks of fluid. What are some opinions on this? Put that in and run it until I can order some MT-90? Or just run it until I feel something "wrong" with the shifting? Or drain it in X# of miles and see if I have any extra shavings? Or...?

Thanks everyone. I can't wait to have my baby home this weekend! The dash will be coming out and the alarm/guages will hopefully be going in.

That brings up another question... anyone know if the ZPI kit came with a bung for an additional O2 sensor for the wideband already welded in and which one is it if so? Thanks!

 

I got the car back from the shop! But, I'm not sure what is going on....

First off I'll list what was done. I had the new Spec Stage II+ (street disc) clutch, Fidanza 2 piece aluminum flywheel, CorSport bushings, and Driveshaft Shop Axle/Hub Assemblies put in.

The car runs but there are two seperate issues. The first issue is I feel a "knocking" coming from different things. I haven't gotten used to the new stiffer clutch pedal and faster catches on the plates, but even when I shift well I hear and feel a "click." It also does this in 5th if I let off the gas and then 'kick' the gas again. Is this normal for a new setup to go through this phase and it just needs to wear in? Or is this bad? I have to drive this vehicle 3 hours away this weekend. :-/

The second thing is there were complications installing the hub/axles. When we went to install them, they seated perfectly and looked great. When we went to torque the hubs down to 160 ft/lb we couldn't. Well... we could, but when we did it was so tight the wheels wouldn't move. We called the Driveshaft Shop and they say it's the first they heard of this. It is on there and it is "tight," but it isn't spec. tight.

So, in two weeks (after this roadtrip) they want to pull everything, retorque, check for looseness, top off fluids etc. My concern is doing as little damage as possible if that in fact is what is occuring.

Anyway, that's the update. I can definately feel a difference in each shift (being more pronounced) and the rpms are seeming to climb slightly faster. No real world numbers to back any of this. Everything else on the car is still stock for now anyway. Have a great week and I'll be back with more done hopefully in two weekends.

 

Ok. So, after a second opinion, third opinion, talking with people on SL, and talking with tech. support for SPEC I've basically come to the conclusion that my throwout bearing that was put in, although new, was bad. So, I'm getting a new TOW and I'm going ahead and getting trans. mounts as well. (The two on the driver's side, not the fluid filled one.) Then it's back into the shop next week. I'll update again after that.

 

So, here I am again with little more to tell than the last time... It' back in the transmission shop again. It took a little longer than 2 weeks because I've been waiting on parts.

Today they will be pulling the trans. and replacing the throwout bearing. They are also going to put my new engine mounts in and my Perrin pulley.

For the engine mounts, I did what Race Precision suggested on this other forum (http://raceprecision.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11).

For the pulley, I went to Lowe's and bought a 1/8" cobalt drill bit to replace the roll pin (key) when this goes in.

This will all be back to me tomorrow and then... probably nothing for another few weeks. I'm swamped with work. But I did hear from Autometer that the Wideband guage I ordered in February should ship by mid-June. :-/ lol...

 

Now accepting applications for Japanese girlfriends?

 

watching! looks good man!

 

Guess What!?!? I got engaged. And no.. not to a Japanese girl per my avatar request lol. So, I've been busy. But here they are...

Updates, updates, updates...

Well... sort of. As you may recall I was having "trans" problems before. It turns out that I didn't get the new TOB put in the tranny, didn't get the motor mounts installed yet and didn't get the pulley on. The shop found the problem and didn't charge me (because more than likely it was their fault) and left those other parts to me to deal with.

The problem I had was coming from my new halfshafts. They had loosened up and were actually moving under torque. (they had play on the spline) No damage was done to them and they still don't seat perfect, but they are tight now at least.

Now I've started laying out the turbo kit and putting my install thoughts on paper. I should be starting this VERY soon. Still waiting on one gauge to come in. I also believe I'm missing a part from the ZPI kit and have tried to contact them, but don't expect to hear back from the until next week. (Not just because people think this is normal behavior for them, but because I know that one of them is on vacation and the other is out of the office most of the week on a project. So, we will see where that goes to determine what happens here next.

In the meantime, I'm laying sod in the front yard. Anyone want to come watch grass grow with me?

I promise some more (and better) updates soon. Just didn't want you guys to think I fell off the face of the earth.

 

Wonderful news! Autometer finally finished making a production version of the guage I was waiting on and it has arrived at my house.

The dash comes out Wednesday and the guages get seated along with the new alarm installed this week/weekend/next week. (And yes... that's a long time for what I'm doing, but it's between a full time job, two side jobs, fiance, yard work, and social activities...) I'll post pics. :smile:

Also, I've contacted ZPI and they did inadvertantly leave out the exhaust pipe of the turbo kit. It goes on the exhaust side of the turbo and connects to the exhaust of the vehicle and has the two bungs to hold sensors. They are shipping that out to me. I'm looking forward to getting on with all this now. In boxes it was just a little pressing to want to hurry this up, but now that it's scattered about the floor it's really got me wanting this done soon.

 

Ok... The gauges are in the dash. Now, I'm just waiting on an Epod to arrive and I'll be putting that back together. I've got pictures to post, but I'll have to upload those in a few days.

Also, ZPI has been nothing but helpful again with me and the part I was missing should be here in two more days. This project is finally getting somewhere. More updates soon!

 

Another question for eveyone checking it out...

I got the exhaust flange that goes on the exhaust side of the turbo yesterday from ZPI. It was inadvertantly left out and when I called about it, they had it here to me within days. Very good response from those guys with this part.

My question is for someone with experience with the ZPI kit... Why did the pre-production kit have two bungs welded in to that piece for sensors and mine doesn't? Where do my sensors go? Here's a pic of what they sent...



I have one bung on the downpipe. So, to my knowledge I'm missing two. Any ideas? Thanks everyone!

Still waiting on the epod... more updates will follow.

 

Jason ... My flange had two bungs welded in for 1. the 2nd O2 sensor and 2. for my wideband sensor.. So on the pipe just have an O2 sensor bung welded on and a 2nd if you are putting a wide band in ( which I very much recomend). Hope this helps buddy.

 

Thought I would highly recommend running it after the cat if at all posible. I am still sorting out issues stemming from the o2 system. Hopefully next week I can put a new upstream in and see if that fixes anything, but my cat is still trashed. Proshop's setup was designed to be ran without a Cat, I am currently running it with one since it had to be relocated per federal emmissions.