saylor

Hi all -

I wanted to bring in switched DC power into the cabin area - lots of power - to run anything from DC voltage that I ever think of adding in ever. Lights, radar detectors, PC, USB phone charger, GPS unit, amps, whatever.

So - after much shopping about at lowes for wire, connectors, etc., I ended up buying a monster cable 30A amp kit for $19.99 at CC or Frys. The entire kit was cheaper than if I bought 20' of raw 10ga. wire alone at lowes, and the kit had connectors, 30A fuse and holder, heatshrink, 10ga power, 10ga ground, and 18ga. ACC wire precut... way better deal than buying all this piece by piece. I think it was this one:
http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/prod...47&section=two

Anyways - the one I have is 30A.

The monster kit will bring in the power to the cabin, but it's only designed to run one thing really - I needed to split the power and share it out to several devices.
So I went looking for DC power distribution units. HAM radio guys have one that is about 100 bucks and it had a gague on it and was way cool, I'm gonna get that when I have the money, but this project is all about th cheap DIY.

I went to Altex (radio shack, but less radio & more computer) and bought a spiffy baby-blue project box, some wire connectors, a terminal block, and some extra wire and crap. I went to auto zone and got a 30A relay for like 5 bucks, in the lights section. The relay will let us toggle the main incoming power on/off via a powered trigger.
Here's the basic plan - a box, with 30A switched power, and available grounds:


The pic shows:
terminal block mounted to project box
10ga ground coming in to terminal block - but I changed this after adding the relay...
14ga solid core wire (green) at the backside of terminal block connects each side - making 3 neg terminals on the left and 3 pos terminals on the right. If I had to do this again I'd probably only make 1 or 2 grounds and the rest positive,, I haven't really ended up needing to ground anything near this box except the relay...


OK - first thing is to pull the power cable from the battery into the cabin.
I was going to make my own hole and put a grommet, but it seemed like there was no real good spot. So - I stabbed the existing grommet.


I read about someone pulling back the side of the thing and putting the wire OUTSIDE the grommet, but I'd think doing this places it against the body hole cutout, which would cut into the wire IMO.
I got a big long screwdriver and stabbed just under the real wiring harness, right thru the grommet to the inside under the dash




Next I taped my 10ga power cable to the end of the screwdriver with electrical tape, then went back to the engine compartment and pulled the screwdriver back out, drawing the wire thru the hole in the grommet.



Next I made my ends, got my heatshrink on, got the connector, tape, etc, and connected the fused link. Notice we're not on the battery yet - do that very last thing.





Pull the fuse out of the holder, then connect to the battery. Run the wire as I have it or the red cover will not fit properly - your wire needs to stick out the same way as the existing wire for best fit:



Pull all your slack wire back thru, put wire loom on, zip ties, etc., and you're done up here in the engine compartment. DON'T put the fuse in yet.



Go back into the cabin and get the 18' of wire under control.



Route your wire behind the kickpanel, under the doortrim or the carpet even, headed towards the area under the drivers seat where the jack is kept - there's a nice hole in the carpet there already.



coathanger to pull wire from door area to jack area:



Bringing the power cable into the project box:


Making the stupid hole bigger



I added the relay with stickyback velcro on 2 sides, it's real aggressive 3M velcro and I don't think it's going to move, but then I also hot glued the edges of the velcro pads to the body of the relay, so I really really really don't think it's going to go anyplace.

I'm not putting pictures of every relay connection - your relay may or may not be the same. It should have a wiring diagram on the package. This relay is basic : a 12V 30A, 2 power outs, one +12V power in, one ground, one switched +12v power in. Bring your monster cable to the +12V power in that's hot all the time. Ground to the ground cable of the terminal block, which in turn will be grounded to some metal close to where you install the project box, like the seat attachment bolt or something. For the switched power in I just ran a wire from my ACC fuse panel LEFT side, directly to the relay, so therefore this circuit does not come on unless the key is turned on, and shuts off when the key is off. Run your power out to the terminal block positive side. Since this has 2 power outs - you could use the other prong to drive something else.



This is where I'm at now - I've run out of loom to hide those last 2 red wires, and I've got the lid off, doing some customization.... but at this point you have 30A switched power into the cabin. Where you take it from here is up to you!

- Saylor

jct

very nicely done!!!

Forklift

I hope you fused it by the battery, I didnt see one

saylor

o ya it's in there. 30A, comes with th monster kit.
Re-read th post - I mention it.

But good looking out - you can never have enough fuses.

-Saylor