Factory Unit With Amp And Subs
I tired of searching for this so I'm just going to ask. What needs to be done to keep the factory head unit and add two amps (2-channel, 4-channel), one for the highs and the other for the subs? I haven't checked out the factory unit but from what I read it has no outputs on the back. Can this even be done? I hate the fact of replacing the head unit. All aftermarket head units are either ugly or the wrong color. I know it sounds weird but I hate color. I like black and white and almost all other head units are colorful. Can someone help? Thanks.
I want to know the same thing, because I am getting a scion next month and I would like to know this because I want to get a system with it asap! And if its possible to keep the stock deck would the sound be better off with an aftermarket deck? If someone could help us out that would be great.
you can either get some convertors that will make the output low level or you can get some amps that take high level inputs. I opted to get an after market HU and regret it. the stock HU sounds so good in the car. I really wanted Aux in's and sub outs though.
anyway, there's stuff on ebay and such to make it easy, harnesses you plug in and what not.
anyway, there's stuff on ebay and such to make it easy, harnesses you plug in and what not.
i just finished installing my amp... i just used 1 4channel amp to power up my 1JL12w0 and i also amplified my front stock speakers and it sounds really sweet! its very easy to do... lasted me 3hours to finish my installation...
what i did was i bought an RCA converter, tap ito to my rear speaker out... form there i now have an RCA out for the amp...
the only mistake that i did was i lost my fader capabilty.. if you do not want thi to happen, buy a seperate rca converter for your rear and front... use the rear for your sub, the front for your front stocks...
what i did was i bought an RCA converter, tap ito to my rear speaker out... form there i now have an RCA out for the amp...
the only mistake that i did was i lost my fader capabilty.. if you do not want thi to happen, buy a seperate rca converter for your rear and front... use the rear for your sub, the front for your front stocks...
oh btw, i also bought the male/female wire harness because i did not want to cut/splice my factory harness... you can buy this at walmart... the rca converter, i bought it at circuit city for 10bucks... i used scosche for my amp wires and its very decent for just 20bucks... im using 1 mrv705 v12 amp... old skul amp with a line out for ch3/4...
I used the Metra harness 70-1761 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=265-646 and 71-1761 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=265-647 to get four channels of signal without cutting the factory harness (behind the radio). Everything is color-coded making the installation easy.
If you can avoid using an LOC (Line Output Converter) do it. The tranformers used in these are cheap and are not good for audio (unless you spend). I ran speaker wires to the high level input of my e4300 located under the passenger seat. http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/e4300.html. I ran a ran a signal (RCA) out of the e4300 to the e1400D located under the driver seat. http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/e1400.html I set the signal out to "sumed" which gives me non-fading bass. This means I can use the fader for front and rear and the sub level stays the same.
The e1400D powers a ProWedge enclosure loaded with a 10W3v2 http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/CVS110GW3v2.html and the e4300 powers components in the doors http://www.jlaudio.com/evolution/VR650CS.html as well as the OEM rear speakers.
If you can avoid using an LOC (Line Output Converter) do it. The tranformers used in these are cheap and are not good for audio (unless you spend). I ran speaker wires to the high level input of my e4300 located under the passenger seat. http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/e4300.html. I ran a ran a signal (RCA) out of the e4300 to the e1400D located under the driver seat. http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/e1400.html I set the signal out to "sumed" which gives me non-fading bass. This means I can use the fader for front and rear and the sub level stays the same.
The e1400D powers a ProWedge enclosure loaded with a 10W3v2 http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/CVS110GW3v2.html and the e4300 powers components in the doors http://www.jlaudio.com/evolution/VR650CS.html as well as the OEM rear speakers.
Originally Posted by Sciond
whatever you do use the Pac line out converter
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