Problem(wiring, Luminics) Updated with Pics
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From: NJ
I just had this happen to my TC, I was running Mtec golden bulbs and they were 55w. I talked to some toyota parts guy and He told me they don't sell just the female part of the headlight harness, that I would have to buy the entire engine harness for $1200. So I went on ebay and bought some 9006 wireharnesse I 'll let ya all know how it works out. I should have just gone HID!!!
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From: Bakersfield, California
Originally Posted by firesquare
let me ask the usual questions
1. did you touch the bulb with your bare hands?
2. was the bulb wet or was it raining?
3. has the harness been tampered with before?
1. did you touch the bulb with your bare hands?
2. was the bulb wet or was it raining?
3. has the harness been tampered with before?
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From: Bakersfield, California
Originally Posted by nfiniti9
The luminics are 55W, the factory are 52w. 3w should not cause these types of problems. I'm sure the factory wiring can handle the extra current draw. Honestly it sounds as if it shorted inside the bulb and cause it to burn the wire until a major fuse blew or the wire was burnt past being able to conduct electricity.
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From: Bakersfield, California
Originally Posted by johncal
Gee, does anyone really think the mechanics that service these cars are stupid enough to believe that the harness would be roasted but the filiment in the bulb would still be good? Those two don't go hand in hand. Personally, (and it's just my opinion) lying doesn't help to establish a good relationship with the dealer that you need servicing your car.
If the wire is just melted, butt splice in a new socket which you can get cheap at any auto parts store (check the fuse) and be done with it.
Johncal
If the wire is just melted, butt splice in a new socket which you can get cheap at any auto parts store (check the fuse) and be done with it.
Johncal
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From: Daytona Beach
55 watts isn't nearly enough to cause a problem. I run 55/60 PIAA's with no grief.
Usually a short or partial short is the only thing that can cause that type of problem. The filiment itself could have a problem. If you want to eliminate the bulb as the cause, take the suspect bulb and the good bulb from the other side and measure the resistance with a volt meter. The resistance should be very similar for both bulbs. if it is not, the bulb is the culprit. If it measures good, then look for a short somewhere else.
55 vs. 51 watt is only adds about an 8-9% increase in amperage. Generally the stock harnessing is designed with a lot more overhead than that. BTW, MANY store bought bulbs are 55 watt anyways, and the "actual" wattage of the bulbs will vary a bit from bulb to bulb within the same brand.
Usually, Advance Auto or NAPA for sure will be able to sell you an H4 socket with short wires.
Hope that helps,
Johncal
Usually a short or partial short is the only thing that can cause that type of problem. The filiment itself could have a problem. If you want to eliminate the bulb as the cause, take the suspect bulb and the good bulb from the other side and measure the resistance with a volt meter. The resistance should be very similar for both bulbs. if it is not, the bulb is the culprit. If it measures good, then look for a short somewhere else.
55 vs. 51 watt is only adds about an 8-9% increase in amperage. Generally the stock harnessing is designed with a lot more overhead than that. BTW, MANY store bought bulbs are 55 watt anyways, and the "actual" wattage of the bulbs will vary a bit from bulb to bulb within the same brand.
Usually, Advance Auto or NAPA for sure will be able to sell you an H4 socket with short wires.
Hope that helps,
Johncal
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From: Bakersfield, California
Originally Posted by johncal
55 watts isn't nearly enough to cause a problem. I run 55/60 PIAA's with no grief.
Usually a short or partial short is the only thing that can cause that type of problem. The filiment itself could have a problem. If you want to eliminate the bulb as the cause, take the suspect bulb and the good bulb from the other side and measure the resistance with a volt meter. The resistance should be very similar for both bulbs. if it is not, the bulb is the culprit. If it measures good, then look for a short somewhere else.
55 vs. 51 watt is only adds about an 8-9% increase in amperage. Generally the stock harnessing is designed with a lot more overhead than that. BTW, MANY store bought bulbs are 55 watt anyways, and the "actual" wattage of the bulbs will vary a bit from bulb to bulb within the same brand.
Usually, Advance Auto or NAPA for sure will be able to sell you an H4 socket with short wires.
Hope that helps,
Johncal
Usually a short or partial short is the only thing that can cause that type of problem. The filiment itself could have a problem. If you want to eliminate the bulb as the cause, take the suspect bulb and the good bulb from the other side and measure the resistance with a volt meter. The resistance should be very similar for both bulbs. if it is not, the bulb is the culprit. If it measures good, then look for a short somewhere else.
55 vs. 51 watt is only adds about an 8-9% increase in amperage. Generally the stock harnessing is designed with a lot more overhead than that. BTW, MANY store bought bulbs are 55 watt anyways, and the "actual" wattage of the bulbs will vary a bit from bulb to bulb within the same brand.
Usually, Advance Auto or NAPA for sure will be able to sell you an H4 socket with short wires.
Hope that helps,
Johncal
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From: Wheaton, IL
I was looking at the plugs on the back of my H4 lights on
the box, and they lookeed a bit scortched. This was with
factory wiring and factory bulbs. I was shocked at how cheap
they looked.
I wouldn't at all be surprised to find this one issue was simply
wiring related. There is no way I'd pay $1200 for the wiring
harness, I could totally wire something by hand bor $20 and
get better results.
Rather makes me wonder if I should.
the box, and they lookeed a bit scortched. This was with
factory wiring and factory bulbs. I was shocked at how cheap
they looked.
I wouldn't at all be surprised to find this one issue was simply
wiring related. There is no way I'd pay $1200 for the wiring
harness, I could totally wire something by hand bor $20 and
get better results.
Rather makes me wonder if I should.
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From: Daytona Beach
Here are headlight bulb cross references....
An H4 bulb is also referenced as a 9003 or a HB2
A 9004 also referenced as a HB1
A 9005 also referenced as a HB3
A 9006 also referenced as a HB4 (PIAA just calls it an HB)
A 9007 also referenced as a HB5
H1, H3, H7 and H11 usually reference the same
Johncal
An H4 bulb is also referenced as a 9003 or a HB2
A 9004 also referenced as a HB1
A 9005 also referenced as a HB3
A 9006 also referenced as a HB4 (PIAA just calls it an HB)
A 9007 also referenced as a HB5
H1, H3, H7 and H11 usually reference the same
Johncal
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Originally Posted by matt_a
Originally Posted by FlintM05tc
I would notify Luminics immediately, and if it is still within 60 days they have a unconditional guarantee.
(and post what they do, because I have them to)
(and post what they do, because I have them to)
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From: Daytona Beach
I would see if the bulb measures as defective with a voltmeter. If the bulb has a short or partial short in it, it is not unreasonable to contact Luminics directly and explain that their defective bulb roasted the harness.
If you send them the defective bulb and the receipt for the repairs AFTER speaking to someone (getting their name and referencing it in all correspondance) , I would guess you'd have a good chance at getting reimbursed.
Johncal
If you send them the defective bulb and the receipt for the repairs AFTER speaking to someone (getting their name and referencing it in all correspondance) , I would guess you'd have a good chance at getting reimbursed.
Johncal
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From: Hingham, MA
I found this place and they have high heat resistant harness replacments, take a look.
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/prod...2227&c=134&l=2
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/prod...2227&c=134&l=2
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Originally Posted by bubblemyster
funny thing, i called luminics and they said to stick stock ones back one and take it to the dealer. Dilema, what should i do.
wow
so they're not sticking to their 1 year warrantee eh?
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From: The Gold Coast
I have this same problem with my Xb fog light. it is a bad ground. The dealership says that can only order me a new harness. something over 2600 bucks installed. They told me this cause they dont like me at all.
I would test the bulb in question on the other side to make sure that it works, then take your car to the dealership to see what they will say. Take the bulbs with you and show them what you are using, just so they know what happened. Dont put the factory blub in and expect them to do anything seeing how the factory blub wont have the char mark on it.
Jason
I would test the bulb in question on the other side to make sure that it works, then take your car to the dealership to see what they will say. Take the bulbs with you and show them what you are using, just so they know what happened. Dont put the factory blub in and expect them to do anything seeing how the factory blub wont have the char mark on it.
Jason
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From: Bakersfield, California
Originally Posted by TurboMe
Originally Posted by bubblemyster
funny thing, i called luminics and they said to stick stock ones back one and take it to the dealer. Dilema, what should i do.
wow
so they're not sticking to their 1 year warrantee eh?
