Sound dead
11-30-2005, 05:57 AM
#1
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Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 989
Sound dead
I plan on buying this this week and doing it, but I was wondering what people would recommend. I don't have any plans for audio yet, but more to have a quieter ride. What do you recommend, brand and model and place to buy.
11-30-2005, 06:02 AM
#2
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,726
11-30-2005, 07:39 AM
#7
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Location: Morgan, Utah
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Members get a discount at all time, no codes, coupons, etc, just send a PM and I will know you are a member
Check this link so see the official pricing thread for members.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...496&highlight=
Rick
Check this link so see the official pricing thread for members.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...496&highlight=
Rick
11-30-2005, 08:14 AM
#8
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Location: Bakersfield, California
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I have a question, I plan on putting this stuff on the floor, pillar, trunk back, kick panel area, and door. My question, what will I need. Should I do 1 layer or 2. With the edead I was going to go 2 layer. What do you think.
11-30-2005, 08:18 AM
#9
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how much should i order. Also while I was reading through that website, sound dead showdown, it said something about putting water protective layer yada yada yada. So please recommend what i should get and how much. is 2 layers necessary, is it worth it, etc. etc. etc. thanks.
11-30-2005, 04:50 PM
#11
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The most important area in a tC is the rear sides by the back seat, terribly noisy in there and it is open to the rear of the car above the wheel wells.
We have deadened several tCs so far so quite familiar with doing them right.
Here is what I would do, in order of precedence.
Rear sides, one layer on everything inside them, wheel well included. A second layer on the main outer body panel, big area. Then a layer of ensolite foam over all of that. Another thing I just thought of is to try and use some foam to cover the opening to the rear sides, not going to be easy but it may help quite a bit.
Next, rears sides, one layer then foam, wheel wells from that area as well.
Hatch, remove cover, mat and foam, put it back on, one layer each.
Doors, one layer of most of the outer skin, two more patches behind the speakers abuot 10" sq or so, same size or a bit larger patch of ensolite over that. Seal up the access holes in the door with mat then cover that area with foam as well.
Back of door panels, some patches under the felt factory padding in the more resonate spots.
Kick panels, seal up the access holes behind the padding.
Rear floor, one layer most areas at least, then one layer of foam.
If doing the floor of the car, one layer most everywhere, a second layer on more resonate areas, then foam.
One layer of ensolite is usually all we use, it is very effective.
Ensolite is an additional layer of deadening that works in higher ambient noise frequency ranges therefore it augments the deadening of the mat for a much better overall effect than just mat alone, any brand of mat as well.
Ensolite is also a great thermal barrier and will keep a car warmer in winter and cooler in the summer
__________________________________________________
That was a brief listing of what I would do, below is our general install guide, we are working on one with pics that will be very tC specific.
_______________________________________
GUIDE TO INSTALLING RAAMmat – BY RICK MCCALLUM, RAAMaudio
Here is what I recommend; this is from years of experience and a lot of customer feedback. It works very well.
Tools:
Utility knife, used to cut and trim the mat and to rub it down into corners.
Heat gun, only used if really cold out to warm up the metal, mat or both, not needed for most installs.
Roller, so little need with RAAMmat that we have never sold them or given cheap ones aways as sales gimics;) Of course you can pick one up at your local hardware store if you want to use it.
Front/Rear Doors (With Speakers):
Remove door panel and plastic moisture barrier; toss the barrier in the trash. Place one layer of mat on outer door skin and overlap the seams, cover at least 3/4ths of the suface area. Place two additional smaller layers, about 12" sq., behind the speakers, then place one patch of closed cell foam on top of those layers. Check for loose wires, cables, etc., inside the door, secure with foam tape, tie wraps, etc.
Build up the speaker mounting location. I make a solid baffle usually from MDF(medium density fiberboard)that fastens to this area to mount the speaker to, sometimes needed to be fairly thick for clearance issues with the back of the speaker and window mechanism. To save some weight you can use Baltic Birch plywood, around half the weight as MDF, harder to find, costs more, we use it for most projects now.
Seal up the door access holes with a piece of thin galvanized tin, anodized aluminum (aluminum screen door repair panels from your local hardware store work just fine) I use self taping sheet metal screws to mount the metal with. If you have door lock rods to work around you can slip some wire loom over them and bend the metal to make sure not binding then mat up to but not touching the rods. Then install one layer of mat over the whole inner door metal, overlapping the seams by 1/2", seal all air passages possible, cut the mat back around 1" from edge of door panel. Add a layer of 1/8" closed cell foam (Ensolite is best) to the top of the mat, cut around all mounting points; same for the mat. To make sure the door panel will fit back on properly, cut back around 1/2" from the edge of the panel.
Next tap on the door trim panel, any resonating areas can be matted on the back side. Usually, about 1/4 to 1/3 of the surface is enough. Install the panel and test the door; slam it a few times and listen for rattles, etc.
Doors Without Speakers:
Just do the inner door metal. There is no need to mat the outer door skin.
Kick panels:
Remove the kick panel trim and look for hole under the pad there, usually opens up to the lower A pillars, a great place for road noise to enter the vehicle. Seal them up with some mat and a layer of foam, you can even add more foam to the back of the trim panel.
Rear Side Panels/Outer Metal Skin:
One layer of mat over the area then a layer of foam to absort ambient noise. If possible you can seal up access to the area instead, like you would do a door without speakers, some cars and trucks have areas like this. If that is the case, not needed on the outer skin if you are blocking the area from the interior already
Rear hatch:
Same as rear doors without speakers or side panesl
Floor:
Place one layer of RAAMmat everywhere. Tap on the floor and add a second and sometimes a third layer to the resonating areas only. ANY MORE IS A WASTE OF MAT AND EFFORT. Once an area is deadened, there is nothing more to gain with adding more mat. Some tend to over use the mat in some areas and not enough in others. Add a layer of ensolite and in some areas less supported, meaning flat more resonate prone ones a second layer can be added. When doing two layers you can add some strips of mat between the layers in key noise areas to absorb acoustical energy in those trouble spots.
Roof:
Not usually needed as it acheives the least beneficial results for alot of effort but if going all out, then most certainly do so. The best advice is to wait until the rest of the vehicle is done, then test and decide what to do. One layer of RAAMmat is the most that should be needed with the possibility of some patches in the middle of the least supported areas. Then cover it with a solid layer of closed cell foam.
_________________________________________________
A nice basic level install in a tC, very carefully used for the best results, not enough to do the floor except a bit in the rear if you do not get carried away on the sides:
1) roll BXT RAAMmat, 62.5 sq ft
4) yards ensolite foam, 56" wide
2) cans adhesive
________________________________
For a very comprehensive install, full floor, etc.
2) rolls BXT RAAMmat, 125 sq ft
7) yards ensolite foam
3) cans adhesive
______________________________
If you wish to order just let me know what you need and your zip code, I will send back a quote and ordering instructions
Please use email, much easier to take care of you that way, PM's are harder to track, etc.
Thanks!
Rick
P.S. If you wish to use another brand that is ok, I will still help guide you to get the best results you can achieve, you are a fellow enthusiast first, business second, they way it has always been at RAAMaudio
We have deadened several tCs so far so quite familiar with doing them right.
Here is what I would do, in order of precedence.
Rear sides, one layer on everything inside them, wheel well included. A second layer on the main outer body panel, big area. Then a layer of ensolite foam over all of that. Another thing I just thought of is to try and use some foam to cover the opening to the rear sides, not going to be easy but it may help quite a bit.
Next, rears sides, one layer then foam, wheel wells from that area as well.
Hatch, remove cover, mat and foam, put it back on, one layer each.
Doors, one layer of most of the outer skin, two more patches behind the speakers abuot 10" sq or so, same size or a bit larger patch of ensolite over that. Seal up the access holes in the door with mat then cover that area with foam as well.
Back of door panels, some patches under the felt factory padding in the more resonate spots.
Kick panels, seal up the access holes behind the padding.
Rear floor, one layer most areas at least, then one layer of foam.
If doing the floor of the car, one layer most everywhere, a second layer on more resonate areas, then foam.
One layer of ensolite is usually all we use, it is very effective.
Ensolite is an additional layer of deadening that works in higher ambient noise frequency ranges therefore it augments the deadening of the mat for a much better overall effect than just mat alone, any brand of mat as well.
Ensolite is also a great thermal barrier and will keep a car warmer in winter and cooler in the summer
__________________________________________________
That was a brief listing of what I would do, below is our general install guide, we are working on one with pics that will be very tC specific.
_______________________________________
GUIDE TO INSTALLING RAAMmat – BY RICK MCCALLUM, RAAMaudio
Here is what I recommend; this is from years of experience and a lot of customer feedback. It works very well.
Tools:
Utility knife, used to cut and trim the mat and to rub it down into corners.
Heat gun, only used if really cold out to warm up the metal, mat or both, not needed for most installs.
Roller, so little need with RAAMmat that we have never sold them or given cheap ones aways as sales gimics;) Of course you can pick one up at your local hardware store if you want to use it.
Front/Rear Doors (With Speakers):
Remove door panel and plastic moisture barrier; toss the barrier in the trash. Place one layer of mat on outer door skin and overlap the seams, cover at least 3/4ths of the suface area. Place two additional smaller layers, about 12" sq., behind the speakers, then place one patch of closed cell foam on top of those layers. Check for loose wires, cables, etc., inside the door, secure with foam tape, tie wraps, etc.
Build up the speaker mounting location. I make a solid baffle usually from MDF(medium density fiberboard)that fastens to this area to mount the speaker to, sometimes needed to be fairly thick for clearance issues with the back of the speaker and window mechanism. To save some weight you can use Baltic Birch plywood, around half the weight as MDF, harder to find, costs more, we use it for most projects now.
Seal up the door access holes with a piece of thin galvanized tin, anodized aluminum (aluminum screen door repair panels from your local hardware store work just fine) I use self taping sheet metal screws to mount the metal with. If you have door lock rods to work around you can slip some wire loom over them and bend the metal to make sure not binding then mat up to but not touching the rods. Then install one layer of mat over the whole inner door metal, overlapping the seams by 1/2", seal all air passages possible, cut the mat back around 1" from edge of door panel. Add a layer of 1/8" closed cell foam (Ensolite is best) to the top of the mat, cut around all mounting points; same for the mat. To make sure the door panel will fit back on properly, cut back around 1/2" from the edge of the panel.
Next tap on the door trim panel, any resonating areas can be matted on the back side. Usually, about 1/4 to 1/3 of the surface is enough. Install the panel and test the door; slam it a few times and listen for rattles, etc.
Doors Without Speakers:
Just do the inner door metal. There is no need to mat the outer door skin.
Kick panels:
Remove the kick panel trim and look for hole under the pad there, usually opens up to the lower A pillars, a great place for road noise to enter the vehicle. Seal them up with some mat and a layer of foam, you can even add more foam to the back of the trim panel.
Rear Side Panels/Outer Metal Skin:
One layer of mat over the area then a layer of foam to absort ambient noise. If possible you can seal up access to the area instead, like you would do a door without speakers, some cars and trucks have areas like this. If that is the case, not needed on the outer skin if you are blocking the area from the interior already
Rear hatch:
Same as rear doors without speakers or side panesl
Floor:
Place one layer of RAAMmat everywhere. Tap on the floor and add a second and sometimes a third layer to the resonating areas only. ANY MORE IS A WASTE OF MAT AND EFFORT. Once an area is deadened, there is nothing more to gain with adding more mat. Some tend to over use the mat in some areas and not enough in others. Add a layer of ensolite and in some areas less supported, meaning flat more resonate prone ones a second layer can be added. When doing two layers you can add some strips of mat between the layers in key noise areas to absorb acoustical energy in those trouble spots.
Roof:
Not usually needed as it acheives the least beneficial results for alot of effort but if going all out, then most certainly do so. The best advice is to wait until the rest of the vehicle is done, then test and decide what to do. One layer of RAAMmat is the most that should be needed with the possibility of some patches in the middle of the least supported areas. Then cover it with a solid layer of closed cell foam.
_________________________________________________
A nice basic level install in a tC, very carefully used for the best results, not enough to do the floor except a bit in the rear if you do not get carried away on the sides:
1) roll BXT RAAMmat, 62.5 sq ft
4) yards ensolite foam, 56" wide
2) cans adhesive
________________________________
For a very comprehensive install, full floor, etc.
2) rolls BXT RAAMmat, 125 sq ft
7) yards ensolite foam
3) cans adhesive
______________________________
If you wish to order just let me know what you need and your zip code, I will send back a quote and ordering instructions
Please use email, much easier to take care of you that way, PM's are harder to track, etc.
Thanks!
Rick
P.S. If you wish to use another brand that is ok, I will still help guide you to get the best results you can achieve, you are a fellow enthusiast first, business second, they way it has always been at RAAMaudio
11-30-2005, 05:55 PM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 28
***RAAMAUDIO or Kung*** Deadening the sound would be great, but since I race autocross and drag, would there be a weight factor??? How much weight would that stuff add, or is it so little amound it would have no effect. I would just like to do the hatch mostly. Any feedback would be great, thanks in advance.
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