wiring help: power in the interior with/without the key
Thread Starter
Senior Member



SoCal tC Club
SL Member
Scinergy
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 152
From: Fullerton, CA
hi,
i'm putting together some somewhat custom interior led lighting and i was hoping someone out there could give me one bit of advice. i'm comfortable doing wiring, i just am unsure where i should tap within the interior to power my leds? i will be putting the leds on a 3-way switch with the intent to have all off, all on with the parking lights, or all on regardless of the key being in the ignition.
if anyone has any tips, perhaps based on the install of other led/neon/cold cathode installations... that would be cool. if i need to tap directly off of the battery for a constant power source (all on regardless of the key being in the ignition) then it would be way cool to find out where i can slip my wire through the firewall. i'd prefer to not route it around the door sill (having the door pinch the wire).
thanx!
i'm putting together some somewhat custom interior led lighting and i was hoping someone out there could give me one bit of advice. i'm comfortable doing wiring, i just am unsure where i should tap within the interior to power my leds? i will be putting the leds on a 3-way switch with the intent to have all off, all on with the parking lights, or all on regardless of the key being in the ignition.
if anyone has any tips, perhaps based on the install of other led/neon/cold cathode installations... that would be cool. if i need to tap directly off of the battery for a constant power source (all on regardless of the key being in the ignition) then it would be way cool to find out where i can slip my wire through the firewall. i'd prefer to not route it around the door sill (having the door pinch the wire).
thanx!
No need to go to the battery, If you take off the shroud covering the column of the steering wheel you can find an accessory wire there. Just probe the thicker wires going up to the tumbler for a wire that shows 12v with key ON but goes to 0 when cranking.
for such a low load as LEDs that should work fine. For larger loads, I always reccomend a separate power source, never good to tie into existing circuits.... but like I said, with LEDs you are not introducing a large amount of current draw to the existing circuit..... unless you are using a lot of them
No need to go through the firewall. Just run the positive to the fuse box. Instead of pinching the wire into the fuse, use a fuse splitter. You can pick one up at your local auto-part store. I got mine at AutoZone. You will need to use a volt meter or a one of those cirecuit testers that look like a pick with a light in it to find the right wire to tap. I used the hazard spot on my xB. It always has power running to it. Here's a pic of what I am referring to. Good luck!
Here's a link on JC Whitney that explains the product as well. You can also buy from them if you can't find it at your local auto parts store.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...10101?Ntt=fuse
Cheers!
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...10101?Ntt=fuse
Cheers!
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