Listen to scion1616 he knows alot about air ride. Lets see some pics of the tanks mounted under the car I need Ideas.

 

That makes sense Lance. I shouldn't have to get a bigger battery? I probably will for when i'm at shows and stuff.

 

Typically in any car that has a higher electrical load than normal I would recommend an upgraded battery (talk to a local stereo shop about what they recommend) and an upgraded alternator. If you can't find an alternator available commercially you can have your upgraded for a higher output at a local electrical shop. The trade off is usually a shorter life span though.

I would also recommend wiring a switch between the power source and your pressure switch. If you remember to turn it off and on you can save your battery, and compressor in case your system does develop a slow leak. It can be incorporated into your switch box, or even hidden somewhere else in your cabin.

 

Cool. I wish there was a pressure switch that would know not to kick on when the battery is getting low. I think i'll run the system with the stock battery to test it out, if i run it dead i'll get a yellow top Optima or equivalent battery.

 

Make sure you wire your compressor so it stays off when your car is off. I had buddys that didnt do this and their compressor ran all night an drained their battery becuase of a leak. Put a toggle inline with your pressure switch. If you think your battery is geting low, kill the compressor with a toggle. I had air on my S10 and I wish I had done this. The compressors seemed to kick on at the wrong time always. Thats why I went with an engine driven comp. 11cfm........ahhhh.

 

I think i'll buy a separate battery for the CarPC and compressor then. How would i wire it up to the main battery? I forget what those things are called that plugs them both together (2 batteries) and charges both of them buy then their still "separate". I hope this would be possible...

If not i'll just wire the pressure switch into the 12v ACC wire @ the ignition harness.

 

Hey Rton, i was looking at those diagrams on airlift's site just now....

The show a port on the tank, then a pressure switch mounted on a T-fitting, and then the compressors fill line. Is this how i would be mounting mine? I guess it doesnt really matter which port the pressure switch is in, did they just do that because they didn't have any other ports?

Where should i mount my valves? I'm planning on buying the stuff for the rear starting next month so i can get the rear going before HIN in Miami down here... Should i mount the fill valves on the tank like in airlift's diagrams, then mount the dumps by the rear bags? I guess it all relates in how fast the bags fill/empty, but to me i probably won't notice a difference. Also, should i use 3/8" dump valves or 1/2"? What would you suggest?

Thanks

 

My personal preference is to mount the valves as close to the bag as possible. This creates a smaller volume that the valves have to fill or exhaust when they are energized. You have pretty much the same ammount of airline, but the line is pressurized along with the tank instead of only being pressurized when you fill the bag.

The smaller volume to fill when you energize the fill valve means faster lift times. And the smaller volume to exhaust also means faster dump times. If the dumps become too fast you can always control the flow using one of the methods discussed earlier.

Hope that helps.

 

Oh, and I would personally run 3/8" fill and exhaust valves. That would be plenty fast for most people in an xB. And it would also create a lot less stress than a 1/2" system that could easily pull the wheels off of the ground.

 

Ok man thanks for the tips. I have some links on my puter at home that i want to post up of parts and see what you think of them.

As far as mounting the valves, can i do this... I have the fill valve with a nipple to a T, one end of that T has a nipple to the dump, the other end a push lock connector with a short line to the bag. How short it is depends on where i'd mount the fill/dump valves with the T. What do you think?

I plan on buying 100ft of 3/8" just in case i want to change the position after cutting line already. If i want to run gauges i would need to ditch the T-fitting and get an "extruded" block right? the one that looks like "+"? I'm guessing i'd have to get a reducer at the back of the gauge.

I'll post up what i plan on buying very soon to just do the back for now until January when i can buy the ES struts to do the front. It should be posted up in a few hours. Thanks for the tips man.

 

Your plan for the "T" is exactly how I have always done it. In some instances "back in the day" I actually used a length of straight pipe out of the "T" directly into the bag. This was on trucks though that us a different front suspension design.

And you don't necessarily NEED to switch to an "extruded block" to run your gauges. If you have the tools you can drill and tap a 1/8" or 1/4" NPT hole into the "top" of the "T". Then you can install the appropriate fittings and airlines there. If you do decide to use an "extruded block" then yes, you would need to install a reducer to drop from 3/8" to 1/8" or 1/4", whichever you are using.

I would reduce the to the smaller size at the extruded block though, not at the gauge. You will definitely have an easier time routing the smaller airline. And it creates a smaller volume that has to be filled along with the bag. Which takes us back to the other post regarding volume and speed.

 

nice i just ordered the rear bags brackets and front struts all came to about 800.. cleared my bank account but illsave up so i can finish out the kit..... post up some links dude... why arent u going with fbss?

 

I'll prolly just go with the extruded block, i don't want to drill and mess it up.

And fusion i am going with FBSS. I plan on ordering this to bag the rear very soon:

FBI Rear Bracekts
(2) SS RS52 2500lb Bags
(4) SMC 3/8" Valves
Viair 400 (or 450) Compressor
Pressure Switch
5 gallon 9-port tank
(1) dual needle gauge
10-switch pre-fabbed box (possibly temporary, only 20$)
100ft DOT 3/8" airline
(2) 3/8" extruded blocks (+)
Misc. Fittings
Water Trap

I think thats all i would need. Once i decide on a specific gauge i will order 50ft of that sized airline. All i need now is to figure out all the specific fittings i need for the rear. I will post links later to all the parts i'm ordering so if you have any other recommendations about what i should get or another place to get it from please let me know.

 

nice,..... i ordered a set of the airlift 2nd gen bags.......thinking i should have used congitech but airlift has the most lift compared to drop ratio....... i want to slam the rear, lol if i have probs with the bags ill be ____ed though........lol lemme know some links.... i still need all fittings, compressor, tank, switches, pressure switch, lines, gauges, n all those goodies..............have fun with the kit......... bought the struts from gaugemag, and theyll be at my door by friday they said..............wahoo......

 

ooo another quick? do i have to get diff types of valves.... i herd mention of a valve and then a diff exhaust valve..........i was just going to get 8 smc 3/8 10mm orffice valves from truck shop or whatever............lemme know that one, it confused me.........im excited though, im having two of my buddys help me out..... one has a show winning s10 and the other a feature honda in some mag, but he is the master at installs like this..............wahoo again...............lol

 

8 3/8 smc is perfect....

Suicidedoors.com sells drilled and tapped tee's with an 1/8 fitting for like $8 a piece.

Buy your slam bags and rear brackets from fbi and the front struts from gauge then everything else from suicidedoors.com, they have the absolute best customer service in the industry.

 

While I can't disagree with your comments about Suicide Doors, I wouldn't hesitate for a second to send someone to Truckshop.com. Truckhop is the new store site for Sportruck.com, run by Jeff and Jody. They have great prices, and great customer service. I wouldn't think twice about buying anything from either site. It all boils down to price. Both sites are going to support the products they sell and provide excellent customer service.

 

hmmm, here is what i'm planning on buying as of now:

FBI Rear Brackets http://fbimini.com/product.asp?idno=249893
(2) SS RS52 2500lb bags http://fbimini.com/product.asp?idno=3955
Viair 400 Compressor http://suicidedoors.com/Viair_400_(FREE_SHIPPING).php
(4) SMC 3/8" Valves http://www.truckshop.com/catalog/SMC...s-p-19559.html
100ft 3/8" DOT Airline http://suicidedoors.com/100ft_of_3-8...d_Air_Line.php
Black 5 gal 8-port http://suicidedoors.com/Black_5_Gallon_8_Port.php
Water Separator http://fbimini.com/product.asp?actio...icks&idno=4024
10 Switch plexi box http://fbimini.com/product.asp?idno=3886
145 PSI pressure switch http://fbimini.com/product.asp?idno=3883
Viair 160 PSI Dual Needle Gauge http://suicidedoors.com/Viair_160_PS...White_Face.php

Fittings:

(2) 1/2" x 3/8" Reducing Bushing (tank to valves) http://suicidedoors.com/1-2_x_3-8_Reducing_Bushing.php
(2) 1/2" OD x 3/8" NPTF Male Elbow (from bags to line) http://suicidedoors.com/1-2_OD_x_3-8...Male_Elbow.php
(2) 3/8" OD x 3/8" NPTF Male Connector (from red. bush. at tank to line to valves) http://suicidedoors.com/3-8_OD_x_3-8..._Connector.php
(2) 3/8" Close Nipple (from fill valve to T) http://suicidedoors.com/3-8_Close_Nipple.php
(4) 1/2" Hex Head Plug (pluggin holes ) http://suicidedoors.com/1-2_Hex_Head_Plug.php
(2) 3/8" Forged Cross http://suicidedoors.com/3-8_Forged_Cross.php


Man after looking at all these fitings i'm getting a headache

What i'm just gonna do is buy all the parts in the first section and then i'll be able to see what all i need. I'm still not sure where i'm mounting everything and that will change the amount of fittings i need. I couldn't find those drilled T's on suicidedoors. And i couldn't even find a good gauge online that lists what size it is. So many things don't list what size they are... the water separator, the pressure switch, the guages, i mean damn how are you supposed to know what to buy

Anyhow, RTon, i've decided to go for the 400 because i'm going to keep it inside, i can always triple up on the mounts and even use some sound deadening stuff around where it's mounted. Is the 400 a 150psi compressor like the 450? I can't find the info anywhere. I hope the ratio thing is right ^_^. Will the pressure switch i plan to get work with the Viair 400? Thanks for all the help man, i want to start ordering this shiz!

 

Just remember. Use the Viair 400 compressor if you plan to mount it inside of the car. Spend the extra money for a sealed compressor (450) if you want to mount it outside. Also, when you order, ask if you can get an extra set of isolator bushings. Then go to your local hardware store and pick up longer bolts for the installation. You will sandwich your mounting surface with the isolator bushings. It helps keep things much quieter.

I also know you are using 100' of 3/8" airline to be safe, but 50' should easily get the job done. Of course, if you can afford it, it never hurts to have extra.

And I'm not about to critique your fillings... If you diagram your system, I it will help you out immensely. It makes it much easier to picture each and every fitting you will require for your build. Also, there are many times when you will find multiple ways to accomplish the same thing. The rule I try to follow in that instance is to choose the option which requires the least amount of fittings. Less fittings means less opportunities for leaks.

I also can't help you with the size of all of the parts, but almost all of the air gauges on the market are a standard 2" design. But if you are looking for drilled a "T", Larry at Innovative air suspension has them. He is a great guy to deal with, just like Jason at Suicide and Jeff and Jody at Truckshop/Sportruck. Here is a link to the 3/8" NPT "T" drilled and tapped with 1/8" NPT...
http://www.innovativeairsuspension.c...on=show_detail

I am not sure exactly what you are asking about the compressors. Viair has plenty of information about their compressors on their website http://www.viaircorp.com The 400 draws a few more amps than the 450 (30 vs. 23) but has more than 1.5 times the flow rating (2.54 vs. 1.66). Both compressors are 4" wide and 7" tall, but the 400 is 1.5" shorter at 11.25".

As far as the pressure switch I have gotten mixed information. I have heard some say that you have to purchase a Viair pressure switch in order to maintain your warranty. From others I have heard that as long as you have a non-adjustable switch that does not exceed the Viair pressure rating you are ok. If you look at the pressure switch section http://www.innovatoveairsuspension.com website Larry explains which pressure switches are ok for the Viair compressors.

Hope that helps.

 

heyy..... rebel man..... where are you going to mount the compressor and the tank.... i want to mount outside, just not to deal with the noise... but i dont want to ruin the compressore, and have more problems.........lemme know dude...........ur last post with all the links really helped.........i think im going with congitech bags just cuz the drop is more capable compared to the ss with the bumpstop thingy...........