right on man looks good
i got the measurments for my lines
so hopefully they will be made by the weekend

 

Sweet man, i'm interested in seeing those. I might get them down the road to have a rock-solid setup that *should* be trouble free

 

Just a question for anyone that would know ... i've been told to use a waterproof circuit breaker for in the engine bay (close to the battery) for my compressor. I've called all the stereo shops around me and none of them have a "waterproof" one, or one that specifically is labeled "waterproof". They have 30amp ones from Monster Cable that have a lit up manual reset button that is supposively "Waterproof" looking ... anyhow my question is, do i HAVE to have a waterproof breaker? How much water gets up into the engine bay and around the battery anyway?

 

Ok i seriously need suggestions now ...

I was looking under the rear to see how i'm going to route the lines to the rear bags ... left side seems easy enough ... then i look at the right side:



Now, how am i going to run airline to the passenger side bag? It's going to be real close to the exhaust hanging there and i can't see a solution to this. The way i'm planning on having the airlines run underneath the xB is like this

from the gromet (already there) under that wierd leftover space below the spare tire, i'm going to have 1 3/8" air line coming out, it's going to go to a T (mounted somehow, somewhere) and then 2 lines are going to go out to the bags. Each bag is going to have a 1/2" -> 3/8" reducing bushing (female) that will have a 3/8" extension nipple that will then have a female 3/8" 90/elbow to a 3/8" compression fitting. I've already checked and it will clear everything. But how will i run the line from the T around the exhaust to the passenger bag? Any ideas? thanks


another shot of where everything will be inside, i'm excited lol

 

Ive never heard of having to need one waterproof, as long as there were insulation cover caps on the connectors or something. Perhaps check some marine shops, they should have some electrical stuff that fits the bill if its still what you want.

 

I actually used hardline on one of my hydraulic imports, but using a fitting called a "bulkhead" fitting was helpful instead of using a grommet for the lines. The only example I could find on the net was here:

http://www.parker.com/tfd/fittingsolutions/bulkhead.pdf

HTH

 

yea i'm going to use those "down the road" once i get the front air struts and i'm doing my permanent install.

I still need recomendations for running the line around the bumper . I think i might have the T-fitting inside the car and just run 2 seperate lines out thru the gromets underneath both tailights .. that way the line on the passenger side doesn't have to cross over the muffler to get to the bag on that side. I'm going to have to decide once i get my valves in and mounted i guess

 

there are 923,271,256 ways to run the line, just make sure you have plenty of clearance (dropped, ride height, and lifted as the line will move being as the fitting is on the axle end of the bag)

 

I am starting to piee my kit together now too. Reaserching now but hopefully will be all done by summer. gonna do the back first though.

 

Thanks lance, the thing i'm concerned with is if i run it underneath the muffle the line is going to be hanging real low so if i run over something it will drag. I think i got an idea tho...

jpscion, u going to Exposed in miami next weekend? I can show you my setup then man, i'll be there.

www.scion.com/exposed

 

try running it about the muffler up in the bumper. just a suggestion, and no I am prob not going because of money. trying to save all i can. plus I have to go out of town on the 24th

 

Yea a lot of peeps can't go cause they're saving ... well i might have the whole thing bagged by HIN in Orlando (sometime in April i guess) so i'm going to try to show there, if u go to it find me

I have to get under the car and experiment running the lines, i can't wait until my friggin valves come in, i'd be outside right now installing >_<;

 

install everything else that you can

 

I think with the bulkhead fittings(no need to use hardline) may help open some options as you could have the line go in the interior and go exterior wherever you put them. Just a thought, I still have to order a system myself.

 

same thing can be acomplished with a rubber grommets and that elimates two possible leak points...

 

jpscion ... i have been, already have my tank with all the fittings i can install done, my comp done, my wiring done and lines ran to the back for the valves once i get them.

And qbqt & lance ... the bulkheads are nice but like lance said, more possible leaks. too bad it can't be completely bulletproof.


-----

I ran my wiring today. Bought a 30 amp circuit breaker with manual reset, double-sided taped it to the top of the fuse box (under the hood next to battery), ran 8-gauge wire to it from the battery and then 8 gauge thru the firewall back to the hatch area and plugged it into the relay. Then ran plugged the wire from the compressor (already there) into the relay. I then ran 14 gauge wire from the ACC line @ the ignition plug (actually tied it into my ACC line running to my CarPC's power supply) .. ran it to the hatch area into the relay. The only other prong on the relay left was the ground/negative. I ran 14 gauge from the relay, thru my PS, then grouned it along with the compressor.

I turn the breaker on for the comp., turn the key on so the relay opens up .... compressor doesn't turn on ... I didn't have it grouned well and when i pressed the ground to make a better connection it sparked and made a popping noise ... i grabbed it away from the metal and went to get my multi-meter. I left the wire from the relay to the 1 side of the PS plugged in, and i plugged my multimeter into the other side ... it doesn't show 12v. I check the other side (coming from the relay) and it has 12v. I'm assuming that either my PS was bad, or i fried it. I probably fried it because .... I bought all the connectors and wiring stuff, and fuses today ... by the time i got home it was dark out and around 7:30. I start to run all the wiring etc ... between taking breaks and eating it's like 10:00 when i power everything up and the above event happened. I guess i was excited and wanted to get everything wired up and hear the comp. run (letting me know that it's all wired up good, and i wanted to see how loud it was). Well i made sure to take my time when wiring up the breaker and compressor, after that i guess i got in a hurry and i was tired and for some reason i didn't even wire in the 20amp fuse between my ACC wire (@ the ignition plug) and the 14 gauge running back to the relay, to the PS. So it wasn't fused >_<;

But that wasn't the only problem, because if it was wired right to begin with it wouldn't have popped a fuse anyway right? I wired it all like this:



Now what happened is, the relay i bought didn't have the prongs in the same order as the one pictured (it had the same numbers). So i plug in the first wire i ran which was from the breaker to the compressor (bigger circuit) into "30". Then based on the diagram from FBI i plugged the rest in without looking at the numbers

Well, after it happened i thought for sure i fried the compressor and i was in a slight state of shock lol. So i unplug the PS completely and run the negative from the relay straight to ground ... Thank god, the compressor comes on, and it's not loud at all. Now my tank has holes in it still (for fittings and valves when they get here) so i couldn't tell how fast etc. it was filling up, but it was nice to hear it run. I'm glad all i have to get now is a $20 PS

 

Well i can't get the PS to work at all still. I ordered a new one from FBI (i hope they send me the 110/145). For the meantime (until i get the PS) i'm going to just run a switch beween the negative in the diagram below and cut it off once my tank gets some pressure built up (shouldn't need too much pressure, i have a 5gal for only 2 bags in the back ... for now). Anyhow i'll just watch my guage and cut it once it builds up enough.

I finished running all my positive lines and installed all the fuses i need. Added an in-line 20-amp (mini-fuse holder) in between my ACC and the line running to the relay for the "small circuit". I also added the same mini-fuse in line holder between a 12v line from the battery and my switchbox.

Speaking of switchbox, the $20 pre-built 10 switcher i bought from FBI appears to be wired correctly. I powered it up and tested the switchs/wires according to their wire diagram and my multi-meter showed that it's pretty much right. At least for the rear (all i need for right now) it's dead on

Can't wait for monday, UPS better not screw me over ...

 

on my setup with the solenoid i have 12v going thru the pressure switch
12v from the solenoid the the switch and 12v to acc. off the other side

 

Coo man ... checked UPS just now and my package departed from Jax so i'm thinking it should get here tommorow!! oh god that would kick ___ ... i need some time to make sure everything is working right before i head off to Miami with the setup ... i don't want anything too surprising.

I just thought of a bad situation tho ... i go over 3 speedbumps to school (in parking lot) and 3 from school, every week day ... I just hope i don't have a line pop or something as i'm going over or coming down from a speed bump ... i don't want to give those d1cks @ my school any more excuses to make fun of my car

 

dude your 17 and have a scion + your bagging it
nobody would make fun of that up here
them "dicks" are prolly just jealous
ALWAYS take it SLOW over speed bumps