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Scion xA/xB 1st-Gen Suspension & Handling Coilovers, Shocks, Airbags, Swaybars...

My AirRide Install [6 valves - Cusco Camber - Pics/Video]

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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 03:18 AM
  #141  
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Thanks for the pdf. I guess i have the acrylic box?

RTon thanks for the suggestion, i guess i'd have a power wire from my batter to the 12v and use the 1 valve in every position and go through the switchs. Sounds confusing but i understand what your saying, i'll try it out ^_^

The wiring on it is eaiser then i though it would be, i hope the box is wired up right ^_^
Old Nov 15, 2005 | 03:46 PM
  #142  
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I knew people who used to get the pre-wired boxes and disassemble them as soon as they arrived. They wouldn't even bother testing them first. The boxes were notoriously unreliable! I haven't used one of those pre-wired boxes in a really long time, so I can't say how well they are wired now.
Old Nov 15, 2005 | 06:21 PM
  #143  
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Hopefully they got their act together then, it looks like it's built nice, hell for 20$ i couldn't even make the acrylic case, let alone 6$ per switch and wires. I say it's a damn good deal, even though i'd like to mount the switchs into the dash one day, this will work for now
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:44 AM
  #144  
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Got my bags in today w00t! I have to say, from what i can tell they seem to be quality to me. I can't wait to put em on ^_^. I guess i run a bolt through the bracket and into the threads on the bag at each hole?

Also, RTon what should i use as a sealant on all my fittings etc? Lock-tite? It says not to use teflon tape because it causes to over tighten (says on the SS waranty sticker).
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 07:01 AM
  #145  
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NO Loc-tite. Use "pipe dope". I used the stuff called Rectorseal on all of my fittings and it worked great. As you know, make sure you dont go cheap on your fittings. Get all DOT fittings. Also, be careful on that switchbox. I had one and I had trouble with the switches sticking. I have some friends that have had no trouble with them though.

A pressure switch is easy to wire up. I went to Radio Shack and got some 30 amp relays and wired it to that. And.......I didnt have a "Viair" pressure switch on my receipt and when both of my Viair 450s quit they replaced them under warrenty with no hassle. But, this has been almost 2 yrs ago.

Mr. Echols is a great guy to deal with and I am surprised that you are having luck with FBI. They always sucked when I ordered stuff from them. Bags are fun, but get old quick. Constant maintenance for a daily driven vehicle. Good luck.
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:27 PM
  #146  
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What should i use on the bolts that hold the brackets in place, and the bolts that hold the bags to the brackets, and the bolts holding down the tank, comp, and valves?

And also, i know to get DOT fittings, all the fittings i listed that i plan on getting are DOT ones
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:46 PM
  #147  
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Loctite is actually fine. The problem is that most people don't understand is that Loctite is a brand and they make several different types of sealants and adhesives. I can't remember which one I use off the top of my head, but I do use a Loctite brand thread sealer. It is meant specifically for sealing pneumatic threaded connections, and works great.

OK... I just did a quick check on Loctite's website. The only products you should use from them are either "Thread Sealant 542" or "Thread Sealant 545."
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:49 PM
  #148  
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Locking nuts, or locking washers should be fine for all of the brackets, etc. I have never had to run any type of Loctite, or other adhesive on them.

If you do use a locking nut or washer, and have to do maintenance later, remember to replace the used locking device with a new one.
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 04:52 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by RTon20s
Locking nuts, or locking washers should be fine for all of the brackets, etc. I have never had to run any type of Loctite, or other adhesive on them.

If you do use a locking nut or washer, and have to do maintenance later, remember to replace the used locking device with a new one.
Thanks for the clarrification of the different types. I will use the loctite on the pheumatic fittings, but what i was wonderings was the bolts, or screws rather. The brackets from FBI came with a little ziploc bag with screws in it, I have no idea what these screws are for, and FBI hasn't answered my email yet. I'm assuming their for Firestone bags?

I'm guessing that the brackets are held in place with bolts that run through the torsom(i think thats what its called) bar, through the bracket, and into the bag? If this is the case then there's no nut on the bolts, because they go into the bags. Should i use loctite on them?


I guess i'd just feel better knowing that the bolts will have a harder time to vibrate out of place. I know it was a concern when i helpd my grandpa build this 2 years ago:



Yep, it's a CF prop

Oh and i got some good scenery shots while i was up at their lakefront property:



I can't wait to lay down the box
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 05:04 PM
  #150  
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OHHH that one in the middle is now my desktop at work :D
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 05:15 PM
  #151  
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I got to admit, i think it's a pretty good pic, the box was dirty, and unneccessarily high (even though it is lowered) but still some good scenery. As you probably noticed, i used a different digi cam than the one i use to take all the other pics ... like the parts and stuff. That's 5 megapixel compared to 1.3
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 05:20 PM
  #152  
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Well, now you did it. I just had to go over to the FBI site and take a look at their brackets.

I also took a quick look at the installation manual over at the Easystreet site for reference of how the xB rear suspension is configured. If I remember correctly, the FBI kit runs the rear bags upside down. That means that your larger diameter mounts go on bottom. Therefore your smaller mounts go on top. It appears by the image on the FBI site that you have self tapping bolts. I assume that two of these would be used on each upper mount to attach them to the upper spring perch.

It also appears that the lower mounts have two threaded studs that go through either existing holes or holes you must drill in the lower spring perch.

Without having everything in front of me, and having never seen the FBI mounts in person, it is hard to say. Hopefully someone here who has installed the rear kit will jump in and answer your questions better.

Oh, and just so you know, that post I said I would make about air suspension is well under way. 22 pages well under way, so far. It will probably end up somewhere around 25 pages in all.
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 05:35 PM
  #153  
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Where is the post?

I talked to sciondrgn who has the rear brackets and he said the top ones just hold in place with the weight of the car. The bottom brackets are held onto the torsom bar thing by bolts that come through the bottom and go into the upside down bag, there are washers somewhere in the mix too. The top brackets do have 4 holes in them and their are 8 of those screws, would i just drill a small hole and then screw them in? Sciondrgn said that the weight of the xB holds the top in place. It rarely will come unseated when going into a weird angled driveway or something and you just have to jack the xB up and push them into place. I'm ask FBI too to make sure.
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 05:54 PM
  #154  
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I haven't posted it yet. I am still in the midst of writing it. Taking a little bit of time every day. Hopefully I will be able to post it up by the end of the week.

And it sounds like Sciondrgn is using the top cup as a "floating cup" installation. It is actually pretty common. But more so in front installations on trucks and other vehicles with upper and lower control arms.
Besides, looking at FBI's design I don't think you would be able to mount your bag if you bolted the mount to the spring perch. You wouldn't have a way to fasten the bolt to the bag.
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 06:28 PM
  #155  
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So i have to leave it floating?
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 06:36 PM
  #156  
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Most likely. I don't think there is really a way to access the other side of the upper spring perch.
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 06:41 PM
  #157  
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from fbi website "No cutting required- just bolt the lower brackets through existing holes and SCREW the uppers into the stock spring pocket."

Dunno never see the brackets in person....but floating the uppers in the rear dosent sound like a good idea...
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 07:29 PM
  #158  
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Oh, makes sense i guess. RTon i was saying that those screws just go through the metal, don't really need to get to the other side because there's no need for a nut on them. I snt Phil @ FBI an email so i'm waiting to see what he did, and recommends.
Old Nov 17, 2005 | 08:34 PM
  #159  
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floating brackets is fine. they do it all the time on trucks. Springs float dont they? it is they same concept.
Old Nov 17, 2005 | 09:18 PM
  #160  
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there isnt a truck out there using floating brackets in the rear (maybe a custum IRS but if they do that why not integrate the bracketry), in the front its not a problem becuase of the weight of the engine and such but it the rear a good bump at highway speeds could be disasterous. I remember reading a thread about a year ago where a lowered echo (cheap ebay coilovers i believe) lost a rear sping on the highway after hitting a bump and ended up spinning in the median....when i finally do air in the spring my rear brackets will be secured 1 way or another....



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