Ok, for those that said this was a five hour endevor you must work on cars more than 3x in six months. Me I'm kinda out of it from my racing days, but this clutch isn't gonna do its self, and my pocket book isn't gonna fill its self either.
If your married, than you have someone to hit the breaks for the axles but I doubt they'll hep taking out the clutch cable clips, but if your lucky they will.

Anyways first things first, so far what I've learned.
1) the Axel Nut that massive thing at the end; its a 30mm 12 pt nut, get a 1/2 drive because its all it comes in and that's all your wanna get. Its about $9.00 at sears and you can return it when your done
2) replace the axle nuts they are an 8$ dealer item, but seriously...replace them.
3)....make sure you really tap the ____ out of that notch or you'll be buying a replacement axle half shaft for 60$ (rockauto, or kragen).
3) buy some protective gloves especially if your hands are huge, lots of the bolts are small and the $25.00 for protecting your knuckles is damn worth it.
4) When the manual says "replace CLUTCH CABLE CLIPS" and it doesn't show you how or tell you how you basically will need:
A long ___ flat-head screw driver, a hammer and possibly if your screw driver isn't longer a socket and an extension. If your at this point just take the drivers axle out so you have room to move and hit upwards. The clips are the biggest pain in the ___ to get to, and seriously f* the book and their how to on that.
5) if your not taking out the subframe, then basically go in the project with a "f* it" mentality, your gonna find bolts here and there mostly 12/14 mm that are a pain in the ___ to get to.
6) removing the fan was a needed in my case and I drained the radiator as well to get the room to remove the "flexible hose tube" which connects into the clutch release cylinder < heads up the SST for this is just a 10mm union wrench head>, and assisted my fat hands in getting to the starter.




again 30 mm 12 pt sears 9$


I took the grill off only and the front bar as well to get to the starter and it allowed me to lean in easier. I might take the bumper off to finish another project, but left it on and the hood since I don't have a garage.




can't retap that, no matter how sexy it looks


overall good times, glad I finished my finals a day early to take in this adventure. I hope I'll beable to get this done soon.

My question for those that did it without removing the subframe is .... HOW THE HELL DID YOU GET TO THE REAR MOUNT?
i've disconnected the exhaust, the plate to the rear, and I take it you just removed the since center bolt on the bushing of the mount?

 

Wow, looks very labor intensive. Watching and wishing you well on this job.

 

which manual are you referring to a hayes or a factory manual... the hayes ones are garbage.

give this a try...http://www.scionlife.org/

most of the info is from factory service manuals

 

Only reference material I've been using. Other than obscure references to what to take out, the rest is up to you to decipher what size to use...very much the ____ me off type manuals.

Case in point this stupid ___ picture and the phrase remove clip...


these gave me the biggest issue till my neighbor helped me out with them.

Other wise running to get sockets that I thought from my Honda days I could use.

I have my laptop out in the garage with me covered in plastic wrap to, so very helpful when looking up SST parts from : http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=645

Over all gonna be at least a two day project solo.

 

sounds like you could use a hand..is your neighbor available?

 

wow glad I never had to do that. when I sold my car at 125,000 the clutch still was solid

 

Any updates? You finish the job? We need details please?

 

yea finished the job, basically I threw my shoulder out working on the transmission and had to call in someone to finish the job.
Another note if your just going to take out the transmission, take off the intake manifold so you don't break the plastic