josh06xb

I have an 06 xB and ever since I bought her i have had problems with this window. I took it back to Toyota within 3K miles and they said they replaced the motor. Since then it has gone to the shop 3 times now, I have darker tint (than what it came with) on the back windows, and I have been told that the tint
is "too thick", also that there is dirt in the track, but what makes no since to me is that the motor does not strain or act as it has a load on it, whenever it works it is faster than the other rear window. I was wondering if anybody else has had this issue. I almost think there is a short b/c it either works or it doesn't.

Please Help.

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13edge

They told you the tint was too thick? How long and how hard did you laugh in their face?

A short sounds possible, and it's also possible they replaced a bad motor with another bad motor.

xBster

Thick tint !?! lol...that's funny. With it moving faster than the other windows it has to be in the wiring, maybe even a bad door switch....

boogi_man

my right rear went out one day then worked again a day or so later. so i forgot about it untill a few weeks back when it went out and hasn't started working again.

unfortunately i live in the southeast and cant get the genuine toyota extended warranty so i am stuck with one that won't cover it.

the switch itself feels a little funky on mine as though the contact is not being made. i am gonna swap switches to see if that's it.

as for 'thick' tint maybe they are hoping you have a thick skull and will buy that bs

biancoxb

the only thing tint can mess with from what I heard is the defog, defrost, and radio. The tint supposedly interderes with that thin wiring in there as everyone sees. never heard of anything else.

bB2NER

They never stop coming up with BS reasons to deny fixing warranty stuff. LMAO and gotta remember that one for sure.
They act as if the warranty repair is coming out of their pockets instead of being paid good money to fix it right the first time. Sounds like they keep changing out the motor instead of spending some time with a multimeter.

jwaj2002

sounds like a $50 repair to replace a fuse I had to pay, I had this issue too, same window, same year, wouldn't go up or down from the driver's door, till I went and pushed the switch up and down on the right rear door, its worked ever since

josh06xb

i laughed when they told me about the tint, b/c every vechile that i have had, has had the exact tint setup, i am going to try to take it to a different dealership this weekend. the only thing is that whenever it does not work it is on both switches

Scorpius01

There is a TSB for 04-06 xB on your problem

EL016-06 REAR POWER WINDOW INOPERATIVE IN CLOSED POSITION
12/19/2006 - 2004 – 2006 model year Scion xB vehicles.

Some 2004 – 2006 Scion xB vehicles may experience a condition where one or both of the rear power windows are inoperative/stuck in the closed position. Follow the repair procedure in this bulletin to install a cushion kit on both rear power windows.

NOTE:
When you receive the customer’s vehicle, if the power window motor does NOT operate, inspect the system by starting with the Inspection Procedure in this TSB.
If the power window motor operation is normal when you receive the customer’s vehicle but the customer’s complaint is the power window motor does NOT operate at times, start with the Repair Procedure in this TSB.


This is the TSB you need to bring up with the dealer. Keep taking it back, Toyota will question the dealer when you have been back more than twice for the same problem.
Toyota will not pay the dealer after the second time, the dealer eats it after the second time.

Speak with the Service Manager and just look them in the face and ask why it was not fixed right the first time, and does Toyota need to be notified? If you cannot get the problem rectified contact Toyota directly.

You don't have a short.

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jwaj2002

mine only did it once, should I take it back and tell them, since they just raped me on a fuse?

Scorpius01

If the fuse fixed the problem then they did rectifiy your problem.

Unless it still has the same issue, you cannot really take it back and make a stink over it.

even though your fuse cost you 1/2 hr labor. I am sorry to hear jwaj2002 that the dealership charged you for a fuse.

jwaj2002

no the fuse was for brake lights not the window

also I paid for 3 hours labor on a fuse

Scorpius01

There is a diagnostic routine that is followed when it only does it intermittantly. So taking it back to the same dealership would be your call. If you have a chioce of dealers find a different one.

three hours diag for a fuse replacement is really hard to swallow, you should have not paid for anything more than 1/2 hr diag. I garuntee you The fuse is the first thing they checked. Was that the only thing they found or was there more?

jwaj2002

thats all they found, they told me over the phone "yea we found melted wires and this was all your fault, because you used a fuse tap and tapped in yada yada yada" well I had a fuse tap there yes, with a 2 amp fuse and their 10 amp, whats tapped in draws less then 1 amp of power, alot less, when I got the paperwork I started looking and it said "replaced fuse" even the head of the service dept said thats all they did they didn't even hook up the scan unit

Scorpius01

Melted wires weren't repaired?
unfortunatley when you use a fuse tap it does change how he circuit functions, the fuse rating, for this example we will use 15A fuse. The circuit with the 15 amp fuse will be rated for 12-13 amps on the circuit. The reason for that, if a 13 amp circuit used a 13 amp fuse the fuse would blow due to the heat from the continous 13 amps when the circuit is energized, so a 15 amp fuse is used, so the circuit can operate and not blow the fuse.

Dependant upon which side of the fuse that tap was connected depends on what it can do to the circuit. Was it tapped on the power side (power going into the fuse) or the component side (power going to the electrical load)? that will change the effect of the fuse tap. It is very possible for that fuse tap to melt a wire if it is tapped on the power side, it would blow the fuse connected on the component side.

However, in your situation I don' quite buy the dealerships response. replacing the fuse does not correct the problem if the problem was indeed what they said it was.

Long story short, for that kind of labor time you should have asked them to prove the melted wires, because that should have been repaired, and technically the problem still exists. Yes a fuse tap makes it customer pay, however no more than 1/2 for a fuse replacement.

jwaj2002

http://www.anythinggps.com/browsepro...-100-Pack.HTML

that is the kind of fuse tap I use, not those metal tabs

Scorpius01

You can still install it wrong, you have to test light the fuse block to see what side lights up and install it opposite of that. That way it is fused instead of drawing unfused power. Remember a fuse is circuit protection, no fuse, no protection.

jwaj2002

trust me they are installed correctly because I install everything on a switched circuit, also now my driver's door window is making a popping sound when rolled up/down

Scorpius01

Some areas to look at would be (most likely to least likely):

Window regulator mounting bolt

window tracks (they house the window runs)..

And least likely of them all, dirt in the regulator tracks.

Any time there is a popping sound when a window is going up or down, 8 times out of ten the window regulator mounting bolts are loose. The regulator and window track bolts can be accessed by taking the door panel off and simply tightening the bolts.

If you have a warranty, then it would be covered under it.

jwaj2002

yep I have a warranty and I know all about electric windows, and know that if I have to fix it, it'll wind up bein manual, cause the parts are expensive