Hi all,

Got my new 2009 xB ride (imported it into Canada) and I'm hooking up the daytime running lights (Canada requirement) module so I can get it plated and on the road.

Got it installed and (almost) hooked up but I have 1 wire left to hook up. I need to connect it to an on-all-the-time power source. I need to find a wire close to the battery (I don't want to run one too far for appearances). Can someone tell me which wire is good (picture's even better) and exactly where it is? Is it easy to get at?

Thanks a lot!

 

Battery would be the best place to tap, depending on how much power you're running. If its for the DRLs, then thats a good bit of power and the battery would be a good place.

 

Thanks for the response. It has to go to a live wire not the battery. One of the other wires from it is already attached to the battery (+).

Any ideas guys?? Thanks.

 

I'm not sure I understand your question. Do you mean a wire thats hot when the key is on? Or one thats hot ALL the time, even with the key off? Doesn't matter how many items you have connected directly to the battery. Just don't forget to fuse...

 

Need a wire thats hot ALL THE TIME. The instructions say to connect to a wire not the battery.

 

Well the battery is hot ALL THE TIME. Seeing as all wires are all connected to the battery at some point... I don't see why not.

 

Thanks BuickID. What you are saying makes sense but I think I've screwed up what I need here.

Let me start over. The one wire left I have to connect does need to go to a power wire that is only hot when the ignition is turned on. This module when working runs the high beams at 60%. The instructions say to touch this wire on the positive battery cable to "test" if I've done everything right up til now. When I do, the high beams do turn on. I confused touching the + battery terminal with needing to hook this wire up to an always on power wire (duh).

So can anyone suggest a power wire that is only hot when the ignition is turned on. Something close to the battery and specific location, color, picture etc.. would help. Thanks again in advance.

 

how about the cigarette lighter/accessory power socket? those are only on when the key is in the ignition and turned to ON. when the car is off, they're off too.

 

I need something close/closer to the battery.

 

well, there are lots of things that are closer and always on, but i wouldn't want to risk splicing into the wiring of say..the ABS module, or the electronic fuel injection. so i'd go with the accessory power sockets.

i mean, what else in the car is on only when the car is running. ABS, EFI, the gauge cluster and the accessory sockets. everything else i can think of is powered at will. why not tuck the wire, or tape it along the edges to hide it.

 

Hmm. Maybe run a fuse tap in the fuse box to something that is IGN switched, then run that tapped wire into a standard relay. Use the relay to power the light module. Doing it this way makes sure that your don't overload whatever you tapped in the fuse box.
If this doesn't make sense, let me know, I'll try to explain it a little better. :D

 

What about the oil pressure sending unit or something like that? Anyone know exactly where that is?

 

dont jack with anything on the motor for a wire tap, in fact dont tap into anything OEM, you re asking for wiring problems down the road, keep you AM and OEM seperate

 

I wouldn't use the oil pressure sending unit. Do the relay thing I was suggesting. Its quite safe, easy, and cheap.

All you need is a multimeter to find a fuse thats ign. switched (priceless when working with electronics), a fuse tap ($5 for a pack of 3?), short length of wire (I'm sure you already have this), and a relay ($7). And some connectors ($3 for a bunch).

This is peanuts compared to what you paid to import the xB. Also, it doesn't involve cutting into any factory wiring, its all easily removable. The only permanent mod might be filing a small notch into the fusebox lid for the wire to run through. I'm not sure how well scotch-lok connectors will fare in the engine compartment (vibration, heat, etc), and they cut into the factory wiring, even if its not obvious. The relay method can be done with solder and heat-shrink for an even more solid, reliable setup.

 

When you're getting power from the battery, make sure you got a fuse/holder wired into it. Unless, of course, it has one someplace else.

 

tap one of the window swicthes. im gonna try to find the thred where i have the wire mapped out. power goes on when the key is turned on power goes off when the key is off AND the door is opened.

its that same wire that lets you close your windows if you forgot to before you turned off the car

chaknowwhatimean

 

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...light=hardwire

your gonna have to back track alittle bit becasue its not by the motor but it all goes back there eventually

 

ignition harness.. should be a group of 5-7 thick wires coming from the ignition switch.. get a multimeter and fuse the wire close to where you tap.. solder and tape it well.. zip tie the wires back and loom under the hood

 

Hopefully you don't plan on running the headlights directly off of whatever wire you tap. That might end up blowing fuses. If this wire is going to power the headlights, use a relay off of the battery, switched by whatever you decide to tap.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

I completed the installation. For any Canadians or anyone just wanting Daytime Running Lights the correct part to buy is the module by Hamsar (hamsar.com), part #H5003W. You can order it through Carquest (carquest.com). I sent them the 2009 Xb headlight wiring diagrams and they recommended this particular module.

This unit run the highbeams at 60% when you start the car and the highbeams turn off when you turn on the lowbeams. There were two optional wires that I didn't connect - one that goes to the parking brake and one to the crank switch (?).

I ended up splicing into the lowbeam & the highbeam on the battery side and I found a wire (ignition power only) off some (sending type?) unit coming off the right hand side of the engine. I went against most peoples advice but it works great and I hid all the wires in plastic conduit and I think it looks professional.

Instead of spending $200 at Canadian Tire up here to do the job and butcher it with a cheaper unit with wires running everywhere, I got the top of the line module and it cost about $50. I'm happy.

Thanks again.