oil change intervals and type
#21
eh to K&N. Most people throw them away once they see how bad they do at filtration. Seriously! It's bad when you hold it up to a light source and can see right through it...
dirt = abrasive.
abrasive = engine wear.
Not good!
dirt = abrasive.
abrasive = engine wear.
Not good!
#23
One reason I never upgraded the filters to my car and its not like the oem filter is that restrictive as the paper filters were of yester years.
Originally Posted by Invertalon
eh to K&N. Most people throw them away once they see how bad they do at filtration. Seriously! It's bad when you hold it up to a light source and can see right through it...
dirt = abrasive.
abrasive = engine wear.
Not good!
dirt = abrasive.
abrasive = engine wear.
Not good!
#24
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teamNJCT
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Originally Posted by Digon
Originally Posted by Invertalon
2k mile interval?
WASTE OF MONEY.
WASTE OF MONEY.
0-20 oil synthetic = 25.00
Mobile one Filter = 4.99
oil change = free (do it myself)
Having my box perform as good as when i first got it = PRICELESS
#25
Its the first 5 thousand that is very critical and I am use to cars making you change it after a few hundred miles, then thousand before you get on a routine. Plus I use to drive 3 times a day 7 miles each and it was recommended for short trips to change it frequently.
I agree about the filters. First they get clogged with stuff, so they start to open the bypass valve when it gets full, second the filter does not remove everything, so the smaller stuff stays in the oil even if the filter is changed.
I agree about the filters. First they get clogged with stuff, so they start to open the bypass valve when it gets full, second the filter does not remove everything, so the smaller stuff stays in the oil even if the filter is changed.
#27
The air filter that Invertalon and I are referring to supposedly flows 75% better than stock while having better filtration. His oil analysis will be interesting.
Originally Posted by cobb
One reason I never upgraded the filters to my car and its not like the oem filter is that restrictive as the paper filters were of yester years.
Originally Posted by Invertalon
eh to K&N. Most people throw them away once they see how bad they do at filtration. Seriously! It's bad when you hold it up to a light source and can see right through it...
dirt = abrasive.
abrasive = engine wear.
Not good!
dirt = abrasive.
abrasive = engine wear.
Not good!
#28
i'm getting ready for another oil change just wondering what brand of oil filter do all of you use.
i was thinking of getting the trd or mobil 1 but it just doesn't really seems to worth it's price.
what you all think?
i was thinking of getting the trd or mobil 1 but it just doesn't really seems to worth it's price.
what you all think?
#30
Originally Posted by DAILYXB-TYPE-R
i'm getting ready for another oil change just wondering what brand of oil filter do all of you use.
i was thinking of getting the trd or mobil 1 but it just doesn't really seems to worth it's price.
what you all think?
i was thinking of getting the trd or mobil 1 but it just doesn't really seems to worth it's price.
what you all think?
#34
What does it spec?
Generally, changing the weights of your oil will not cause any issues, as long as you don't go extreme with it. I would guesstimate, that if you car specs 5W20, you can safely run 0W20, 0W30, 5W30 and 10W30 with very little to no issue. You just may loose some mpg on the heavier weights. But probably won't be noticeable. Same goes with if your car runs 5W30... You could probably run 0W20,5W20, 0W30, 10W30, and even 40 weights. But I would suggest sticking close to what the car calls for. They chooses specific weights for the proper oil flow inside the engine. Mostly, the second weight is most important. The lower the winter weight though you can find will be best though for colder starts.
Hope this helps ya!
Generally, changing the weights of your oil will not cause any issues, as long as you don't go extreme with it. I would guesstimate, that if you car specs 5W20, you can safely run 0W20, 0W30, 5W30 and 10W30 with very little to no issue. You just may loose some mpg on the heavier weights. But probably won't be noticeable. Same goes with if your car runs 5W30... You could probably run 0W20,5W20, 0W30, 10W30, and even 40 weights. But I would suggest sticking close to what the car calls for. They chooses specific weights for the proper oil flow inside the engine. Mostly, the second weight is most important. The lower the winter weight though you can find will be best though for colder starts.
Hope this helps ya!
#35
If your new TC calls for 0W-20, then I would think that 10W-30 is a little thick. Probably not an issue for engine protection, but for fuel efficiency, probably.
I also use the OEM Toyota filter. Good filter for around $5. I think Mobil 1 or K&N or TRD oil filters are probably overkill if doing 5K changes.
But again, discussing oil and filters will run the gamut of opinions and preferences.
I also use the OEM Toyota filter. Good filter for around $5. I think Mobil 1 or K&N or TRD oil filters are probably overkill if doing 5K changes.
But again, discussing oil and filters will run the gamut of opinions and preferences.
#36
seems like the 5k mark is well accepted. i have proved to my self with analysis to concur these findings. remember, my volvo is a modified turbo beast, and do not use synthetic, just regular dino oil.
thanks for all the info.
thanks for all the info.
#38
Originally Posted by DAILYXB-TYPE-R
have any one used Eneos, greddy, or royal purple extreme motor oil before?
i've hear alot of good things for Eneos and royal purple but just wonder if anyone have any experience w/them before?
i've hear alot of good things for Eneos and royal purple but just wonder if anyone have any experience w/them before?