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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 09:59 AM
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Default Valve Stems

Newb question..........

I’m planning of have a set of custom 19” wheels that will not have the TPMS valve stem on. What other type of valve stems is available? Is the standard cheap stuff rubber valve stems ok? Or is there a better alternative or upgrade?




I saw some metal ones also. Are these better or recommended?


btw..... Can someone confirm that the .453" rim hole is the size we need for most of our applications on our wheels.

And.... I think the 1-1/4" valve stem length is OK. Can someone please confirm this?

Thanks.
Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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i would assume they can transfer the TPMS sensors t the new wheels.....?
Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:31 PM
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I wanted to have 2 sets of wheels.... one set with the TPMS and one set without the TMPS.
Old Sep 17, 2008 | 08:11 PM
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Just a thought.... Does anybody know if you can run 2 sets of TPMS sensors. I'm wondering if the ECU can only sinc to 1 set......
Old Sep 18, 2008 | 11:59 PM
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Standard el cheap valve stems work just okay. Those metal ones are made for different types of wheels and *may* not fit the stock steelies. I work at a local tire shop and switched my TPMS sensors to my 18s and they work just fine. The steelies have Blizzaks and those rubber stems and are holding just fine.
Old Sep 19, 2008 | 12:08 AM
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Thanks for the input. It's always good to hear it directly from a person that has first hand experience and expertise.

I actually went to one of our performance parts shop and they basically told me the same thing. Generally, the metals ones work great, but they do not work for every application. The wheel design (spoke placement, hole placement, lip placement, etc) has a lot to do if it will work or not. They also told me that the standard rubber ones usually works just fine, but is more susceptible to leaks since it's forced through the hole. The metal one, which are bolted on, tend to have a better seat and seal.
Old Sep 19, 2008 | 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BBN-Boys
Thanks for the input. It's always good to hear it directly from a person that has first hand experience and expertise.

I actually went to one of our performance parts shop and they basically told me the same thing. Generally, the metals ones work great, but they do not work for every application. The wheel design (spoke placement, hole placement, lip placement, etc) has a lot to do if it will work or not. They also told me that the standard rubber ones usually works just fine, but is more susceptible to leaks since it's forced through the hole. The metal one, which are bolted on, tend to have a better seat and seal.
Dude, that valve stem, if treated properly, will last a lot longer than you could imagine. The only time you would need to replace it because the hubcap cut into the stem. They just don't "leak."

At work, we only replace them when A. We replace the tires B.They are old and weather rotted.
Old Sep 19, 2008 | 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by thefilepirater
Originally Posted by BBN-Boys
Thanks for the input. It's always good to hear it directly from a person that has first hand experience and expertise.

I actually went to one of our performance parts shop and they basically told me the same thing. Generally, the metals ones work great, but they do not work for every application. The wheel design (spoke placement, hole placement, lip placement, etc) has a lot to do if it will work or not. They also told me that the standard rubber ones usually works just fine, but is more susceptible to leaks since it's forced through the hole. The metal one, which are bolted on, tend to have a better seat and seal.
Dude, that valve stem, if treated properly, will last a lot longer than you could imagine. The only time you would need to replace it because the hubcap cut into the stem. They just don't "leak."

At work, we only replace them when A. We replace the tires B.They are old and weather rotted.
I've done tires for years and I've seen stems leak from around the seat, but it's because the rim was old and I think the hole was a little on the large side.
With that said, you shouldn't have any problems. Especially being out in California with no snow/salt/crazy oxidization. I've seen many chrome wheels being pitted and peeling from salt.
Old Sep 19, 2008 | 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by xseveredveganx
I've seen many chrome wheels being pitted and peeling from salt.
This from the guy that lives in SALT LAKE CITY, and wants CHROME WHEELS!!

You had to know I was going to jump on that one vegan!
Old Sep 19, 2008 | 04:44 AM
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Chrome or go home!!!

I'm actually looking into the 5AD S5:F's in stealth chrome... I don't run chrome in the winter. Learned my lesson with some 20's that pitted on me in 2 months of sitting on my truck in my driveway... They didn't warranty them.
Old Sep 19, 2008 | 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by xseveredveganx
Chrome or go home!!!
I am home, but I won't go chrome... it won't look good on my CSM.

I like the 5AD wheels also, but I want 18x7.5 or 18x8, and they don't come in those sizes.


(Sorry for the threadjack BBN-Boys.)
Old Sep 19, 2008 | 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by CIONIDE
Originally Posted by xseveredveganx
Chrome or go home!!!
I am home, but I won't go chrome... it won't look good on my CSM.

I like the 5AD wheels also, but I want 19x8.5 or 19x10.5, and they don't come in those sizes.


(Sorry for the threadjack BBN-Boys.)
Bro, they have those sizes. They'll go great on your xB!!!
Old Sep 19, 2008 | 07:19 AM
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Don't edit the quotes!
As my father says, everybody likes a smart guy, but nobody likes a smarta$$.

I do wish they came in 18" sizes though, I don't want to step all the way up to 19". I'd actually go with 17" wheels if I didn't think they look too small against the big slab sides of the xB2.
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