good to hear. I had to use my 4 foot breaker pipe on my wrench handle to get mine loose as well.

 

once the CEL comes on the only way to take it off is to take it back to the dealer right? or will the CEL go away after i put on the anti fouler? because i really dont want to have to put the stock headers back on and take it back to scion just because of some CEL. i already had to go back to scion about a month ago bcuz my damn MAFS got fried when i installed my injen CAI and i handled the MAFS really gently too.... (according to scion techs anywayz). And yes i did end up taking it off and putting back the stock intake before i took it back to scion. i ended up telling them i took out the MAFS for auto's class bcuz we were inspecting sensors, as an excuse so warranty would cover the bill.

 

for the megan racing set up, drill a hole thats 3/8 instead of 1/2, works fine for me. Anyone know s pipe doesnt hang so low? I got zpi and it scrapes sometimes and i banged it up on speed bumps and cat isnt lowered!!! When i lower it i wanna sontin to prevent my header from getting ripped of my engine or s pipe destroyed.

 

I want to install a header but no s-pipe or exaust. Everything is factory except when i install the header/

Is this poosible?


Ronnie

 

i thought you could shut that off just like when you change your oil. push and hold the trip button and turn the car on. Or is that the service light... is that something different together. i am doing a header install tomorrow wish me luck. First time for headers. Ive done exhaust and internals on domestics. this will be my first on an import. great write up. also did you end up having to drop the alt. to do this install?

 

has anyone had trouble with their o2 sensor. I have heard horror stories of some tc's coming with stripped o2 sensors.

 

what you're thinking of is the maintenance required light.... that's the mileage counter for the reminder for the oil change.
(and the screen needs to be on odo when you do that reset)

don't think you need to move the alt. during the install... but if it's in the way... ehh.. doesn't hurt to move it.

for the o2 sensor.... wd40 that alot and let soak before you remove.

good luck

 

yeah thnx. i just bought a 4-1 from ehh... actually i forget where they are from.. its japanese thats all i know.. number 1 racing headers or something they look exactly like DC sport headers but there not. i wish i had a camera there sitting on the floor next to me. i cant read the name on it they painted over it.

 

HP Award Winning Headers provide 15+ Horsepower Gains!

HP RACING Headers are available in chrome, ceramic and stainless applications. HP Headers are designed to provide maximum Horsepower and torque. Each header is inspected to insure perfect fitments and clean welds. All HP RACING Headers are dyno tested and backed up with one year warranty.


ok i found it.. well sort of.. this is the same idea.. this is hpracing headers. but not for the tc. here is the website to make things easier.

http://www.hpracing.com/index.phtml

 

So i tried to put the header in today.. big problems we had to make 5 trips to sonoco to borrow some tools from a friend so we could get the nut loose near the alternator. it was either that or drop the alt. and there was no way i was going to do that.. so we get all those nuts loose. take them off.. then find out we need a 1/2 inch drive socket rench and i only have 1/4inch.. wd40's it so much it was dripping still not budging.. any suggestions?

 

i noticed when i had to put the o2 sensor back in all the way i had to wait for the OEM header to get hot before i could screw it in all the way.. i got stuch on the two exhaust bolts and bracket bolts.. which suxs.. that was the only thing between me and a new header installed.

 

ok well apparently some one is going to let me borrow an impact wrench.. so i just need to by the deep socket for it.. half inch bit cordless. should work right?

 

impact wrench + O2 sensor = BAD

You will probably damage the sensor. Put a wrench on it and add a little pipe to the handle of the wrench if need be to add leverage.

 

haha im not that stupid.. no i ment for the exhaust bolts.. the one that connects the header with the s pipe.

 

oh ok. LOL

Sorry man, you wouldn't believe what some people will do to their cars.

Good luck.

 

i know i have unfortionately been there and done that.. ^^

 

Ok so everything went in fine.. we bought some PB blaster which was a lot better than WD40 I suggest everyone buys a can of it. its only $4. It breaks free anything with rust no matter how long its been on there for. Put it this way it will melt through a styrofoam cup. So it took about 1hr and 10min accounting for 3 smoke breaks too.. so probly not even that long. so the header smoked for a little after it was put together, the cermaic coated headers started bubling but i dont care its not for show. its for heat shielding. So i drove it for 10 miles then i got a check engine light. so i guess i will be getting that fixed next. with the right tools this should take no longer than 45minutes to an hour. Its a little easier to jack the car up if you take the front passenger side wheel off too. It may have been a bad time to install it but its there to stay for now. My clutch is slipping in every gear now due to more torque. I would say i would be lucky if i gained 5hp. The company claims 15HP with just the headers. I guess i will not be able to tell you till i get my new spec clutch installed. Ill update later on.

 

If the "ceramic coating" is bubbling, then it is indeed not a ceramic coating. It is merely paint that is baking off. It will probably eventually rust. You could always get it coated with a jet-hot coating if you wanted.

 

yeah i know.. they say ceramic headers on the box.. and they certaily are not stanless steel.

 

oh well. Hopefully you like it, and you feel it was worth your investment.