lasnight about 20 minutes after i posted this last update, i was able to do a temp test to see what the acrylic would take.

i had some 1/4" plexi laying around *same thing as acrylic* so i cut a small piece about 4" but 6" in size and stuck in a pain with boiling water for 20 minutes. water temp measured about 231 degrees so just over the boiling point at sea level. i thn used a pair of grill tongs to grab the piece out. i put it to the edge of the counter and put every ounce of weight i have in me on it *i weight about buck 30.* on this small piece, that is about the same thing as 130psi. i put the pressure on the piece within a 2 second period to make sure it didn't have much time to cool down. i left my weight on it as long as i could and the end result... the plexi was perfectly fine. no warps, cracks or even stress nicks from the counter edge. so if 1/4" can handle that, i'm sure 1/2" will be just fine.

 

BTW the boiling point temp of water goes down from 212 degree F the higher you go verticaly. on top of mount everest, the boiling point is somewhere around 170 or 180 i de believe so 231 degrees would be an extreme.

 

Update - seems Eagle Stainless is not capable of supplieing me with the pieces that they lable on thier page <--- to me, that says they don't care about thier business. so i've gone to Parker Steel for specified metric tubing to use for the electrodes and have placed a qoute order. i have also contacted several other custom companies about a much stronger version of the finished reactor with much heavier materials then previously sugjested. going from plexiglass and worrieing about temps and pressure to only worrieing about EXTREME pressure levels.

i'm working on getting ahold of enough parts to create 4 reactors. 3 of the reactors will be ready for use while one of the reactors will be the test subject to what issues may possibly happen. also, to counter some issues, the materials used are much heavier thus for the need of custom shops. the ends of the reactor *bottum and top lids* are made of stainless steel at 1/2 inch thickness. the reactor tube can either be tempered glass or plexiglass depending on which one handles the limitation tests. i don't trust plexiglass enough to withstand 200 degree temps over several hours WITH added pressure levels around 60-100psi. tempered glass on the other hand will. BUT ofcourse this makes the reactor cost more but also makes it much safer.

the plexiglass option is still there though and uses the same design as the heavy duty version. it's cost effective but not built to be efficient like the heavy duty one is. the plexiglass version will not be using a heating element to heat the water inside the reactor thus making it about 1/2 to 1/3 as efficient as the heated heavy duty version.

so the result...

cost effective = less efficient
spend a little extra = 2-3 times as efficient

heavy duty version should be more then capable of handeling higher extreme levels. 200 degrees F MAX temp and upto and beyond 300psi pressure levels. the temp should never go above 200 degrees F as the water will begin to boil at that point, boiling the water may or may not decrease efficiency. the heating element would be powered by small dry cell batteries. it would be wise to have a voltage adjuster so that you can control the water temp based on driving and being parked. heating element should be turned on before starting the vehilce for highest efficiency and should be turned on 15-20 minutes before starting the car *for optimum heat, takes a bit to get the water up to temp*. while parked the water in both the reactor and water tank should be heated to a continuous 40-45 degrees during winter or freezing condisions when outside temp begins falling below 40 that way the system is still ready to go.

you could install a power supply from say Kinetic and use that to power the heat elements while the vehilce is parked, that is ofcourse if you don't want to use batteries...