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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 05:08 PM
  #61  
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jmiller hit it right on the head. You can't easily bore the 2az. It is a sleeved bore in an aluminum block. It would sacrifice rigidity and strength. Higher compression is the way to go along with all that jmiller said. Definitely will cost many thousands of dollars right now.
Old Oct 4, 2005 | 06:24 PM
  #62  
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THANKS GUYS....I PLAN ON DOING ALL THIS THIS WINTER THE TC WILL BE IN A CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE....AND MY GRANDFATHER OWNS A MACHINE SHOP AND MY BRO IS A MECHANIC..SO THEY ARE GOIN TO HELP ME OUT....
Old Oct 4, 2005 | 06:45 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by jmiller20874
The 2AZ can't be bored (well I shouldn't say can't but it'd be a be-otch). Just get higher compression pistons (10.5:1 or 11:1), stronger rods, polished and balanced crankshaft. You could de-stroke the motor to give you more displacement and raise your redline but that will sacrifice some of that low-end torque you've come to love. P&P the head, larger injectors, hi-flow fuel pump, etc, etc. Hope you got $$$$ since a lot of this will be custom since most of these parts aren't available......yet.
Stronger rods are waste of money. The OEM rods have proven themselves at more than twice stock output. There is no need for a stronger rod.

Remove the balance shafts and lighten the crank. Polishing is for pretty, not performance. I suspect there's about 10 lbs of extra mass on the crank. Then you will need to balance it, but not until. The factory does a good job of both forging and balancing the OEM crank. None of these things increase your power, but reducing rotating mass is always a good goal. Removing the balance shafts will require plugging the oil feeds to the bearings, and it will require some tolerance for increased vibration especially at lower speeds.

De-stroking will REDUCE displacement, not increase it. If you go this route, expect to spend a lot of money developing things no one else needs and expect your engine to make power like a Honda engine - at high rpm. Not a bad choice, just something you need to consider before heading down that road.

Flow the head. See where you need to make more flow, and focus on low lift flow, it's worth much more than a big peak number and it makes a better engine anyway. Be sure to have your cam grinder fully understand what you are expecting from your engine, and where (what rpm range) you want to make best power. You also need to consider bore, stroke, and rod length when choosing the right cam since the piston's dynamics are fundamental to understanding how the engine will breathe.

Once you know the head's flow numbers and have chosen your cam profile, you can run calculations to determine ball park numbers for your injectors. It is extremely unlikely you will need to upgrade your fuel pump, and most probably you'll only need a relatively small injector upgrade. I'd bet a considerable sum the rest of the fuel system is perfectly capable of supporting any configuration without boost.

Yes, you'll need custom pistons, and you'll want someone who can make the right changes in the combustion chamber to ensure they work well. Never forget the piston top is the floor of the combustion chamber. Many tuners spend painstaking hours geting the roof right, but pay little attention to the floor. They are equally important.

The 2AZ has a unique combustion chamber design, and it may be difficult to make it work well with very high compression. AFAIK, no one has used an angled squish area like the 2AZ has, so you'll be in uncharted waters when you push the envelope for compression. Also, this will complicate the calculations for setting deck height (one of the critical block dimensions) and will also complicate any work done to true the head's sealing surface, since both of these thing affect squish, unlike most other engines where deck height sets squish by default.

Bore size is problematic. The bore spacing is really tight, and the liners are not incredibly thick. However, they do appear to be thick enough for a 0.5mm (0.020") overbore without worries, especially in an NA application. I'd be concerned for high boost, and Jotech installed a full deck on their engine just to be sure it would survive high boost. For NA, it should be just fine even with an overbore.

So those are some starters just for the basic engine build. We haven't discussed intake manifolds, but you'll need a new one of those for sure. We also haven't talked about exhaust systems, and you'll need to do that too. Current aftermarket may not support your configuration when you do all this other stuff, you might need to change the primary tube diameter or length or both to find power where you need it.

So, who's got the cubic dollars to do all this?
Old Oct 4, 2005 | 07:13 PM
  #64  
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i think i saw that a few weeks back... it was blue..
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