Car has been throwing this code, for what I can tell since September, 5 months after the engine was replaced. When the issue originally came around, there was sludge in the engine from the wear in period, but the engine has been flushed twice, OCV Solenoid and filter changed and working properly. Engine was replaced due to having thrown a rod last November. One of the issues is, the mechanic who replaced the engine, didn't check all the codes before swapping the engine.

I am not experiencing any lag when getting on highways, although I hear my valves when either putting the clutch in to shift gears, or when in 2nd-3rd sitting around 3k rpms. I had the oil pressure readings taken and am getting 62 PSI cold and 14 PSI hot. Engine oil was SAE 5w-20.

Is that enough oil pressure for the system to function? I have seen people reporting much higher PSI and or using 5W-30, but not with a stock setup. I tend to think since the P0012 is the retarding code, that the pressure is adequately turning the gear forward.

When the engine blew, would this have required the mechanic to replace the ECM as well? Friend at Subaru said when these codes trigger in their cars with a blown engine, it is essentially permanently recorded into the ECM and will never go away thus requiring a swap.

 

When you say, "the engine was replaced," was this a newly rebuilt engine or a previously used engine? How did you have sludge in a replacement engine that required you to flush it twice and it sounds like a little bit of a stretch to call whomever did the work a 'mechanic'.

What do you mean by, "I hear my valves?"

A quick search would tell you the following:

2AZ-FE
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Type: I4, 2.4L, chain-driven DOHC, four-valve, open deck,
aluminum block and head
Displacement: 2362cc (144 cid)
Bore x stroke: 88.5 x 96mm (3.48 x 3.78 in.)
Horsepower: 160 hp @ 5,700 rpm
Torque: 163 ft.-lbs. @ 4,000 rpm
Compression ratio: 9.6:1
Emission control: EVAP
Fuel system: MPFI
Fuel pressure: 44-50 psi @ idle, 21 psi hold
Fuel injectors: 11.6-12.4 ohms
Oil pressure: 4.3psi @ idle, 36-78 psi @ 3,000 rpm
Valve clearance: Intake, 0.008-0.011 in. (0.19-0.29mm); Exhaust,
0.012-0.016 in. (0.30-0.40mm). See Technical Notes.
Spark plug gap: 0.039-0.043 in. (1.0-1.1mm)
Firing order: 1-3-4-2
Ignition timing: 5°-15° BTDC @ idle
Base idle speed: Manual, 650-750 rpm; Automatic, 610-710 rpm

You friend at Subaru sounds like a genius also...I don't know of a single car that 'triggers codes' when an engine blows that would require an ECM replacement. I'd love for that Subaru friend of yours to tell you what code the ECM stores that says, "Engine Blown...Replace ECM."

 

Engine was a refurbish from Promar whom also confirmed it is normal to have debris in the engine for the first few thousand miles after install while it is breaking in. The 2nd flush was to confirm there was nothing in the engine still while having the filter changed. The engine was clean on the 2nd flush so it was more just to check it off the list than being necessary. However, that mechanic has worked on my cars for over 2 decades and I have never had an issue, I don't think it has anything to do with him.

It isn't that it triggers a specific code when you blow an engine. The best analogy he was able to use was trying to format a drive with a virus on it, some viruses will still be there afterwards. He has no idea what causes it cause he isn't an electrical engineer but he was 100% right that the last diagnostic step in the Scion Manual for P0011/P0012 is to replace the ECM. I would tend to think since it is in the manual also, there is something that can go wrong between this code and it getting permanently stuck in the ECM.

 

You actually answered your own question with this, "Car has been throwing this code, for what I can tell since September, 5 months after the engine was replaced."

If it didn't start throwing the code until 5 months AFTER the engine was replaced then it stands to reason that the ECU didn't require a replacement due to a stored code. Given that you admittedly had 'debris and sludge' in the engine upon replacement it sounds as if that's causing some residual issues.

 

Yeah I see that I missed an important statement after the "One of the issues is, the mechanic who replaced the engine, didn't check all the codes before swapping the engine." I was given the car back with the MIL light on, told it was for a broken Knock Sensor. Brought it to the mechanic down in PA where I live, told him that is what I was told, asked him to check it when he changed my oil, he confirmed it, and told me not to fix it until I finished breaking the engine in as it was expensive and there was no Knock.

Fast forward to September, when I had them fix the Knock Sensor, now the mechanic had to call me after arguing with me that he didn't have to remove the intake manifold to get to it, that not only did he have to do that and my car had to sit, but then another code was now on. I asked if it was related to the removal of the manifold and he then told me he had no idea as he never read the codes in the car when it was dropped off previously. This is why I said, for what I can tell it was on since September as both mechanics did not actually read the codes.

I have since picked up a ODB scanner myself after finding out I was told something from someone who didn't even bother looking into the issue.

 

If you get an OBD scanner it should allow you to clear codes...I would clear whatever codes it may have and see which one(s) come back? I'm still leaning toward an issue with the solenoid.

 

Yeah that is where I started diagnosing back in October/November was by deleting codes, and seeing what re-triggered.

Had a P0010 also that was due to the harness being faulty. Swapped the harness and the code went away.

I have some unrelated code that is causing the passenger seat sensor not to show the airbag as off when no one is in the seat. From putting pressure on the seat, I think the sensor is just shot at this point. I digress.

P0012 always comes back 2nd startup like the code is set to. Solenoid was changed, original one still works when I gator clip it to the battery, tested the ohms on the one in the car and got the same reading. Had the OCV Filter changed as well, the original was basically clean. I did save the oil filter from when they changed it, am going to cut it open to see how metallic it looks if at all this weekend.

I haven't been able to figure out how to tell my Foxwell nt809 scanner how to control the VVT system in the car, reached out to them for assistance.

I really appreciate the replies though man.

 

What brand replacement solenoid did you get? With electrical items I always try to stay with OEM as I just feel like there are likely to be far fewer issues.

 

The mechanic used a Dorman. When I was looking online myself, it seemed to be the more popular option and didn't see any bad reviews. I am not entirely convinced that when the P0010 code was on, which indicates a short in the VVT Solenoid circuit, that something didn't go wrong with said solenoid. The car isn't throwing that code currently, but I am still suspicious. It is easy enough to run two new wires from the ECM to the VVT solenoid to eliminate the possibility that the short isn't along the line and was actually the harness if I really feel so inclined.

I actually bought a Toyota Techstream as my Scion Manuals indicate in the diagnostic steps that you can tell the solenoid and cam phaser to activate and confirm if they do or not without opening the engine. Sounds odd to me, but again, I am just going off what they wrote in their own service/repair manuals.

 

"I had the oil pressure readings taken and am getting 62 PSI cold and 14 PSI hot. Engine oil was SAE 5w-20."

Is this recurring? Have you tested your coolant for hydrocarbons? If test is negative, would likely rule out head gasket issues.

 

Thanks all for the suggestions.