My A/C clutch never cycled, I need to change two wires. The tuner and I changed all the setting in the A/C to try to get it to work. The charging system is fine at the battery just not at the AEM. I am pretty sure its because of power being split four ways. Going to test this theory next time I am home.

 

I don't think it is the Voltage supply to the AEM causing it to shut down but the voltage from the cam and/or crank sensors voltage going below the threshold!
Having it built in only means you cannot change it. With the AEM you can. With the Hydra you need to run a long vacuum hose to the unit =not good!

Pito

 

Everyone wants their hydra with the auto-tune option along with software version 2.6. Both things put the AEM cheaper than the Hydra.

Pito

 

I can try that next week so we don't have to wait and you can work on more important things once you get back!

Pito

 

Im set on running the Hydra EMS now.... however the predicament I have is tuning.... either AEM EMS w/ a Tony Palo tune or Hydra EMS w/ a Turbochargers.com tune (I forget the tuners name)


Maybe I should just go AEM EMS

 

Keep me posted either way I still have almost 6 months before I will be back again. Were you having the same issue when trying to get the car to idle below 1,000 rpm's? I know we had around high 800's and turning the headlights on would kill the car but the AFR would hold steady in the low 13's.

 

Tony tunes the hydra, i asked him about that as long as its a standalone

 

I remember when the Ground cable that connects to the frame of the car, and under the starter (on the tranny), and finally to the battery, wasn't grounded properly to the frame.

I would try and turn on the headlights and move the windows, the car would shut off, lol.

Don't think you have that problem though ^^

 

Why would need that option on the AEM....your AC don't work anyway... Naw just kiddin, you have to "fix" it to make the AC work like Nick said.

As for the pulley making voltage go up.....that's rather a bandaid solution to the problem of sucking up the juice from the car.

 

Auto tune helps get you started but sucks ___ cause it puts too many holes in your tune better off just getting a good base map then fixing that for your car. but even with the auto tune feature its still way cheaper then the AEM unit + map sensor+ knock sensor+ boost solinod+ tune+ head aches for tuners. I really like AEM but not til all bugs are worked out. It does have alot more features then hydra but hydra is getting there and hydra will get the job done thats why i got it. P.S its hella easy to tune. evn for a noob like me.

 

The wires that interact with the A/C are not wired to the AEM at all so it will not work no matter what you modify in the software.
I will do my best!! Yes I do have the same problem on both cars I have tuned with the AEM. The AFR is OK but engine just dies!!

Pito

 

Yes the AEM has that too.
That really hurt ......................... but is true!!!

Pito

 

Auto-tune will not do miracles on a car; you need a tuner!!!! Also it supposedly tunes the fuel map but NOT the Ignition map!
You don't need a knock sensor with any of the units since the engine already has one!
The boost solenoid can be controlled by both units but is not included in any of them.

I can't help you with the headaches

Pito

 

I never had a problem before with this but after seeing the oem negative cable I didn't like it so I made my own. I made it just like the oem but with two 4 gauge wires and have never had an issue. All of my battery connections are tight.

 

This was while I was home before you gave me the 411 on how to fix it. Thank you for that info.

How is the Hydra when you are tuning? The AEM you can tune and save the file at the same time can the Hydra do this as well? I read online somewhere about an engine management system you would have to get it tuned save the file to the laptop, shut the engine down, turn key back on and send the new cal file to the ecu. I don't remember which one this was.

The graph's in the AEM software have a small square box that floats around the graph while the engine is running depending on rpm and load so you can see exactly whats going on at various points to aid in tuning. I am not sure how the Hydra is on tuning never seen it tuned or sofware for it.

 

^^ the hydra has that small square to that moves depending on rpm and load, the cells where the lil square has went/stepped into gets highlighted and refresh it if you want. Witht the hydra, you can adjust the values and the adjustment is done realtime.. it will hold all the info but to you need to save the new map as a new file and then load it, the car dies as you are saving (you have to be on a stop) the next time you start, the new map is completely flashed.. if you dont do the save and open step, you will lose all the new data that you changed.

 

We were saving the file to the ECU.

 

^^ thats the faster way, hydra needs you to save the new map... open the new map and then load it.. then it the car dies and its completely flashed.. the new 2.6 might be different but im not sure

 

I know there is an autotune map, where you set how quickly you want the hydra to make changes to the fuel map. The higher the number the more drastic the change (usually used when you have a bad base map or no base map for that matter).

Once you have some safer AFRs, you can lower that value in the autotune map, so the hydra makes less drastic changes.

Big holes on the AFR map, are probably a result of that setting. But regardless, you still need to smooth it out. Oh and manually change the spark timing map as well.

Makes sure the AFR target table is set properly before all of this ^^

 

Bandaids are better than no aids. ??

lmao

But yea its just a short term solution.