the things i would do b4 boostin is check ur compression and then do a leakdown test after then like 1 of the guys sed save some money on the side i say about 2k just incase..

 

That's pretty hardcore.

 

Well, this thread answered my basic questions. I had been thinking about getting a header and a set of NST pulleys (basically, completing my n/a boltons,) but I'm going to pass on them for now. The suspension is definitely getting replaced, and I may do a few cosmetic mods, but otherwise the focus is going to be on getting mine, and my wife's cars paid off ASAP so I can get rid of these car payments, and be free to ultimately choose what I want to do. The turbo route would be nice to avoid a new car payment, and to have a unique and even more modified ride; the new car route would also be nice because it would be a stronger platform to mod from the beginning. I'm somewhat leery of the possibility of having to replace an engine, but I guess that would be a learning experience...

I do have a few more questions though, primarily more specifically to Dezod's kit, so hopefully Paul will drop in again.

1) Does the automatic kit come with the FIC as well, or are they still being shipped with an Emanage (blue or ultimate?) I remember reading about some problems with automatics and the FIC, and I'm not sure if they were ever resolved. If it comes with the blue, is is ok to completely ignore partial throttle tuning?

2) I'm thinking about maybe getting the catted downpipe to avoid the wonderful smell of a cat-less car. How much power could I expect to be robbed by this? Would I be able to run the 2nd O2 sensor without a CEL elimnator of some sort to avoid a CEL?

3) Is it possible to get a bung for a wideband pre-welded on the S-pipe? I would want this to as plug and play as possible, so I could do as much of the install on my own as possible. Can one still get the TRD pre-tapped oil pans now that the supercharger is gone, and/or does Dezod or someone else sell these?


The only other thing I would have to decide on would be if I'd want to upgrade the valve body pre-turbo just to be safe, or install the turbo and then see if I need it. I'd lean towards the former.

Thanks again all, and maybe I'll be boosting with some of you eventually...

 

My answers in bold.

 

Pay it off then boost!!! Save money up before deciding to boost incase anything goes wrong!

 

Thanks Paul :D I definitely like that I can get everything ready to go and not have to worry about having any welding done. Does the price of the kit change if I choose the E-Manage Ultimate?

 

An e-manage ultimate will alter the cost higher as well.

 

Take my opinion seriously......


I traded my 06 tC in (was boosted, but sold the kit) for an 03 Honda S2000. Wasn't satisfied with it (tC was faster), then traded it in on an 05 SRT-4. Then got fed up with it cuz the motors in those things are solid but crap and expensive to upgrade. Then i just settled for a daily driver truck. Now when i get back to the states i have big plans for another tC. SO...... several cars later, i want my tC back. Stick with the tC!!!! Also take in consideration the price of insurance on a "faster" car. The S2000 was $300+ A MONTH for insurance ALONE! (No points with a perfect driving record) The SRT-4 was $250ish A MONTH, whereas the tC was something around $100. With the money you'd loan out plus the value of the car you would lose, plus the increase in insurance you could easily spend that on a great kit + motor build and have one beast of a tC. I have a laundry list of ex cars that i'd modded, boosted, and traded that if i had only stuck with one, i would have had one hell of a car. So listen to a fellow member that has been in your shoes countless times. If i could do it all over again, i would have kept the tC, bought a daily driver beater and kept working on the tC. Drink til' she's hot, i say (but in a different context).



Also, just found this yesterday. It's my old tC up for sale on Autotrader.com AHHHH!!!!


http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...standard=false

 

Simple solution for catless dp and no CEL. Every corner auto shop (autozone, advanced, etc) sells spark plug non-foulers. Buy 2 packs of 2. I can't remember exactly what model # it was, (search) but it has the exact same thread as an O2 bung. Take 1 of them, bore it out with a 1/2" drill bit (can be done with a vise and power drill). Assemble 3 together, 1 bored out to the O2 secondary sensor, and the other 2 (non-bored) to the exhaust pipe, then asemble together. This spaces the O2 sensor away from the ehaust and only allows the sensor to read partial exhaust gas. And viola, no CEL. Tried and true. If theres a CEL, use 4. Too easy. I have pics of my setup i will post later when i'm not at my work computer.

 

Nice paul! Back when i bought your kit (2 years ago), the DP only had 2 bungs, nor did you offer a pre-tapped oil pan.

 

Run the kit on the stock motor. No worries. With a rich conservative tune and without beating on it constantly it should hold up in time for when you'd want more power, trust me you will. Then rebuild everything at once. Save you the cost of pulling the head off twice.

 

You should have stuck with the S2000.

 

at $300+ for insurance a month alone........no thanx, but i did have fun with it at the time, but it just lacked something in it for me

 

There ya go

 

A lot has changed since then Matt. We have opened plenty of doors for ourselves.

 

Cool deal, just imagine what else you guys will be offering in Jan 2011 when i'm back in the states and giving you guys a call.

 

compression test is what you should do. Takes no more then an hour tops (the first time .... after that it will take 1/2 hr)

The kit cost $40-120 in the store and will tell you instantly if you should even think about boosting your car. Long story short, you hook up a gauge one at a time to where your spark plugs are (take one out, hook the gauge up) and you crank the engine 6-7 times and watch the gauge go up ...it should read around 180 in pressure. You pull the fuse so it doesnt turn over. Do that 4 times and you will know if you get the same compression in each chamber. If one of them is off by say 15lbs from the others ...you do not want to boost. mine were 175-180 for all 4 so i know w/o even doing a leakdown test that my engine is atleast able to be boosted. The last thing you want is to force more air into a chamber that is already leaking - hope that helps.

 

Cool, I'm sure we can work something out when it's time


That is the plan, I'm not exactly in a hurry to do the test quite yet since I'm focused on paying the car off first (I'm going to be upping my payments, getting tired of debt.) Thanks for the exact numbers though, now I know what to look for. I beat on the car a bit but its been well maintained, so hopefully it should be fine.


Hmmm I didn't even think of insurance prices, good catch on that. Thanks for your experiences, it does sound like you were in the same boat as me before!


I meant the valve body in the automatic transmission. I'm definitely planning on running the turbo on the stock engine so long as it proves to be in good shape, I'm not aiming for a whole ton of HP and I'd prefer to avoid an expensive engine build. At least, not at first...

Thanks again everyone for the great information so far.

 

Indeed we can sir!