I would think you would be ok, but then again I'm no expert. I drove to Dezod with a base map when I first installed my kit and the base map was not that great while Dezod is about 1hr 15min away from me.

It would be a safe move to install it there... I would ask your tuner to double check their recommendation

 

So we finally installed my kit, the 21st, has been running great. I do leave oil drops anywhere that i park though, not puddle like but drops like as if its leaking from somewhere, really cant tell where though. And i havent really been tryin to step on it hard cuz my friend said no full throttle until i pass 500 miles so i can break in the turbo then change the oil again so remove sludge build up. I used Royal Purple 10-30. I might use 10-40 after i change it again. Anyways, it smells like oil when ever it goes in boost, and only when its in boost, other than that it doesnt. Normal, not normal? Then where the oil feed flange is at where it connects to the line, it "smokes" after i hit boost. Nothing squirting out, it just smokes. Today's the second day, it is raining, and my AFR's read anywhere from 13.2-14.5 at idle, im using the AEM wideband. Any feedback would be appreciated!

 

in boost they range from about 10.9-12.5, and 13.8-14.3 at idle. Any feedback on all of this?

 

in boost they should be pretty consistent. your afrs should be really steady at like 11.5 ish. where did you get it tuned at?

and as far as i know, there is no 500 mile break in period for a turbo, because you're supposed to put it on, then go get it tuned, which would require you to go into full boost.

and for it raining, my car runs like crap when it rains. don't know why, but it does.

 

so yesterday i changed my oil. today i took it out and my AFR's were a bit higher than normal they were about 14.7-15.7, why idk? any input?

 

exhaust leak, causing the afr gauge to get a miss read. thats always been my cause of sudden AFR drops. and was this at idle? or under any sort of boost? cruise?

 

[/QUOTE]and for it raining, my car runs like crap when it rains. don't know why, but it does.[/QUOTE]

motors dont like humidity

 

it was at idle and coming to a stop light. but at idle.

 

thats not a big deal if it was at idle. boost, and wot are your biggest concerns

and btw, havent heard from you in a while, i assumed everything was going smooth!

 

sometimes when i first start it up it goes into the red (16-17. but once its warmed up it goes back to normal AFR's. is it normal if the car bogs down as if it hits redline but i havent even hit redline under full boost? dude i text you like everyday lol

 

and for it raining, my car runs like crap when it rains. don't know why, but it does.[/QUOTE]

motors dont like humidity [/QUOTE]

that makes sense, because in michigan theres never any humidity except for when it rains lol

 

yup, here in illinois, we have brutally humid summers, and ive never had anyluck during dead summer, unless you get a tune just for the summer!

and sebby, its probably just cause you havent gotten it tuned. its never gonna run really good until you get it tuned. it sux coughing up the money for it, but once you do it, you will KNOW where your money went. you will end up spending more money, and have more headaches trying to fix the tune, or get it to cooperate than to just get it tuned.

just drive conservatively for a bit until you come up with the money, or just put your stock manifold on and intake, cap off the oil lines, and go back to stock until you can get it tuned. leave everything else one, thats what i did for like 3 months when i blew my ITS turbo. i had my intercooler, piping, vacuum block, oil drain line(capped off) and my oil feed (capped off) just chillin in the engine bay. then once you get the money, its only like a 2 hour install to get everything back on!

 

its tuned already by church's automotive, the place where WORLD RACING tune there cars at. I have everything my friend (the previous owner) had on his is on mine, same injectors, same manifold, 91 octane, same turbo (just new), with the exception of a catback exhaust (he had a stock exhaust). so pretty much he passed his tune over to me which would still be good wouldnt it? i dont see why not

 

yes and no. it should work alright, but like ppl have told you on this thread, different cars work different ways. its just highly recommended that you get it re-tuned to your specific vehicle. it will clear up your AFR problems for sure.

 

the exhaust being different will make it not run the same. going from stock exhaust to full 2.5 changes the exhaust flow

 

qft

 

tune wont be spot on...close though but still will need some work.
there is a huge diff between stock axle back and 2.5" exhaust in exhaust flow.

just for example i use the stock axle back but have a 2.5"qtp electronic exhaust cut out welded into my mid pipe (along with megan mid pipe and megan s-pipe, 3" down pipe). wastegate spring is set to 8.7 psi. with cut out closed (not dumping) i cannot reach wastegate spring pressure unless i use a boost controller. max pressure was 7psi and turbo took longer to spool (roughly 500 rpms). however open up the cut out and I get 8.5-8.7psi and the turbo spools 500rpms sooner.

now the changes that would be made to the tune (fuel map) are not that dramatic to compensate for the changes in exhaust flow for this example, like i said it will be in the ball park.
you also have to consider other things that may be different such as overall compression (how well your rings are sealing vs. his).
also was his car tuned with a slight exhaust leak or vac leak.
if you toss all the variables into the mix the tune that comes with it may not work well with your car.
best advice i can give you is to always consider getting tuned and not try to skate by using a base map.

 

yea i now notice my tune isnt spot on, its maybe like 90-95% good cuz of the above. i was wondering if i got a 3" exhaust made from the s pipe back how bad would it affect my current tune and how long do i have to tune it to the 3 inch?

 

its hard to say

 

anyone have any input?