Speed-Source Polyurethane Motormounts.. *PICS*
Just got my set in today also. Installed just the fronts. Did a couple of hardesh launches in my Turbo'ed tC, and man, I could really feel the difference. Feels better then when the car was N/A even though it's putting another 100 wheel torque to the pavement. The car used to wheel hop all the time at the 1/4 mile track N/A.
I guess I'll just have to get used to the vibration though.
I can live with it.
I guess I'll just have to get used to the vibration though.
installed both front and rear mounts yesturday and it took us 5 freakin hours.
luckily my friend had a lift in his garage and all the tools you will possibly need. (he also has air tools)
well anyways I just want to give advice to those who are putting it on themselves..
-Front ones are a peice of cake, just need a 14mm deep socket
-Like everyone says, the REAR mount is a PITA!!!! I find it impossible to do without the car on a lift.
-The center peice that goes into the poly mounts WAS TOO LONG to fit into its place. Ended up shaving 1/8th of an inch off
-Had to take off the downpipe and midpipe just to make it easier for us to move around and see things.
-Did I say the rear mount is A PAIN IN THE A HOLE!
-When you have the rear mount out..you have to hack-saw the stock mount like you never hacked before, and hammer the cr4p out of it
-Make sure to lube the poly mounts so it can easily get it
-When you put that center peice into the poly mount make sure its flush or it WILL NOT FIT! (thats why we just cut a lot off so it can clear easily, and it wont hurt it if you cut to much, it is just to center that bolt that goes throught it.)
-Make sure the bracket is on before you put the mount back in
I wish I had a camera to show you guys how we did it..
you need to be really patient and not get frustrated easily because installing the rear mount will make you very mad lol
well now the mounts are installed and the car feels great. It is a big difference from when I had my ingalls TD in. The vibrations are a little harder but that was expected with these poly mounts. Shifting is nice and downshifting feels very smooth. Havent launched it yet but from the feel of these things i think i will be very happy when im back at the tracks at qualcomm (:
if you have any questions PM me and i will try to help
luckily my friend had a lift in his garage and all the tools you will possibly need. (he also has air tools)
well anyways I just want to give advice to those who are putting it on themselves..
-Front ones are a peice of cake, just need a 14mm deep socket
-Like everyone says, the REAR mount is a PITA!!!! I find it impossible to do without the car on a lift.
-The center peice that goes into the poly mounts WAS TOO LONG to fit into its place. Ended up shaving 1/8th of an inch off
-Had to take off the downpipe and midpipe just to make it easier for us to move around and see things.
-Did I say the rear mount is A PAIN IN THE A HOLE!
-When you have the rear mount out..you have to hack-saw the stock mount like you never hacked before, and hammer the cr4p out of it
-Make sure to lube the poly mounts so it can easily get it
-When you put that center peice into the poly mount make sure its flush or it WILL NOT FIT! (thats why we just cut a lot off so it can clear easily, and it wont hurt it if you cut to much, it is just to center that bolt that goes throught it.)
-Make sure the bracket is on before you put the mount back in
I wish I had a camera to show you guys how we did it..
you need to be really patient and not get frustrated easily because installing the rear mount will make you very mad lol
well now the mounts are installed and the car feels great. It is a big difference from when I had my ingalls TD in. The vibrations are a little harder but that was expected with these poly mounts. Shifting is nice and downshifting feels very smooth. Havent launched it yet but from the feel of these things i think i will be very happy when im back at the tracks at qualcomm (:
if you have any questions PM me and i will try to help
I am pretty sure everyone understands what a pita the rear mount is. I was able to do mine in a fairly short amount of time so I will try to help out as much as possible.
There are a few tools that will make this project go much smoother:
-lift
-pole jack
-long extensions
-wobbly sockets
-ratcheting wrenches
-air hammer w/ exhaust cutting attachment
-vice and a swing press
If you don't have most of these tools I wouldn't recommend trying to do this yourself.
I think the lift is pretty self explanatory.
The pole jack will help rock the motor to make removal and installation easier.
With the s-pipe and the midpipe removed you will be able to access most of the bolts on the mount with wobbly sockets and the right length extensions. The bolts on the transmission that are difficult to get to is where I used the ratcheting wrenches.
Once you have the mount out, put it in a vice and use the air hammer to press the old mount out. This should take no more than a couple of minutes with an air hammer and the right attachment. Next you will insert the new mount only to find out that it won't slide into the mount on the cross member. This is where the vice and the swing press come into play. Put the mount from the cross member in the vice and whack it with a hammer to open it up a 1/4 of and inch. The new insert will now slide in with ease and when you tighten down the bolt you will have a nice snug fit.
Any questions let me know.
-Jeremy
There are a few tools that will make this project go much smoother:
-lift
-pole jack
-long extensions
-wobbly sockets
-ratcheting wrenches
-air hammer w/ exhaust cutting attachment
-vice and a swing press
If you don't have most of these tools I wouldn't recommend trying to do this yourself.
I think the lift is pretty self explanatory.
The pole jack will help rock the motor to make removal and installation easier.
With the s-pipe and the midpipe removed you will be able to access most of the bolts on the mount with wobbly sockets and the right length extensions. The bolts on the transmission that are difficult to get to is where I used the ratcheting wrenches.
Once you have the mount out, put it in a vice and use the air hammer to press the old mount out. This should take no more than a couple of minutes with an air hammer and the right attachment. Next you will insert the new mount only to find out that it won't slide into the mount on the cross member. This is where the vice and the swing press come into play. Put the mount from the cross member in the vice and whack it with a hammer to open it up a 1/4 of and inch. The new insert will now slide in with ease and when you tighten down the bolt you will have a nice snug fit.
Any questions let me know.
-Jeremy
put the front in today. i really like the new feel.
however...the vibrations are driving me nuts. im not the kinda guy who craves a headache. i even have the stock exhaust cuz i hate the loud noise and vibrations from fart cannons.
so...does the vibrations really get less after it "breaks" in? if so, how long does that take?
however...the vibrations are driving me nuts. im not the kinda guy who craves a headache. i even have the stock exhaust cuz i hate the loud noise and vibrations from fart cannons.
so...does the vibrations really get less after it "breaks" in? if so, how long does that take?
I installed these today, Wooooooooooweeeeeee what a job.. Took me and me brother about 5 hours to do. We did it in the driveway on ramps! Anyways it wasn't fun, the positives are alot better shifting through the gears, when your in second gear and you let off the throddle you don't get that slamming of the motor bouncing back and forth anymore so thats cool. The only downside of the mounts are installing them and the vibrations.
Do the vibrations get better after they break in ?
Do the vibrations get better after they break in ?
Originally Posted by satoman44
i had my front in for a week or so. vibrations were pretty much the same.
anyway, mine are now for sale cuz i can't stand the vibration at idle.
anyway, mine are now for sale cuz i can't stand the vibration at idle.
id give it a chance.
well I cant tell any difference with them installed or the stock ones in. I dont know what im suppose to be looking for but for 160 bucks, I feel like all I have done is bought vibration. At idle the vibration is more than id like to have. After I installed and crankd the car for the first time i thought I left something loose or something but thats not the case....They just vibrate very bad at idle.
Originally Posted by 318_tC
i cant tell a difference and the vibration is VERRRRRRY bad
I don't know if I'd attach him like that but....
318, did you just have stock mounts before or did you have an engine torque dampner as well?
I can't speak to these mounts, but I know the ETD will pass alot of vibrations through the cab, especially at idle. I put one on my roomates car and she hated the vibration so much that it's now disconnected and only gets hooked up at the track.
Test this out... at idle, when the car is vibrating, where do you feel it? Steering wheel? radio cover? is it a buzzing sound or is it a real vibration? Then turn off your a/c and tell me how it changes the sound/vibration.
We'll go from that point...
Now about your question: "What you're supposed to be looking for"
During load (on the road or on a dyno) your engine moves a significant amount forward and backward. This movement delays torque to the wheels and does not allow for consistent control of the power to the ground. These new mounts are supposed to reduce that movement and allow you to put more power to the ground.
The easiest way to see how much they have improved your ride is around a corner acceleration.
Before the ETD, driving around a corner in first gear 20 mpg (non turbo'd car) with all the weight on the left wheel (right turn) punching the gas would roast the right tire till the car straightened out. Straight line launching would result in wheel hop at anything more than a mild launch.
After the ETD, the same turn, the car will hook up significantly faster. Straight line launching also allows for significantly more aggressive throttle (not 4k clutch dumping, but a lot more than stock).
Hope this helps.
318, did you just have stock mounts before or did you have an engine torque dampner as well?
I can't speak to these mounts, but I know the ETD will pass alot of vibrations through the cab, especially at idle. I put one on my roomates car and she hated the vibration so much that it's now disconnected and only gets hooked up at the track.
Test this out... at idle, when the car is vibrating, where do you feel it? Steering wheel? radio cover? is it a buzzing sound or is it a real vibration? Then turn off your a/c and tell me how it changes the sound/vibration.
We'll go from that point...
Now about your question: "What you're supposed to be looking for"
During load (on the road or on a dyno) your engine moves a significant amount forward and backward. This movement delays torque to the wheels and does not allow for consistent control of the power to the ground. These new mounts are supposed to reduce that movement and allow you to put more power to the ground.
The easiest way to see how much they have improved your ride is around a corner acceleration.
Before the ETD, driving around a corner in first gear 20 mpg (non turbo'd car) with all the weight on the left wheel (right turn) punching the gas would roast the right tire till the car straightened out. Straight line launching would result in wheel hop at anything more than a mild launch.
After the ETD, the same turn, the car will hook up significantly faster. Straight line launching also allows for significantly more aggressive throttle (not 4k clutch dumping, but a lot more than stock).
Hope this helps.
HAHA ur right I dont know how to drive my car thats the problem.
No I just cant tell a difference with the mounts and the vibration is crazy. Im a paying customer and thats my review I dont see the problem with my post.
No I just cant tell a difference with the mounts and the vibration is crazy. Im a paying customer and thats my review I dont see the problem with my post.





