blew tweeter again in component speakers.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 487
From: Littleton, CO
Originally Posted by nebster
didn't you sell your car yet?
and yes you can. the passive well let it not go below a certain point but that does not mean you can't change the hpf on the amp or on the HU to redirect the signal going into the passive crossover. Typically the passive xover will have them set lower which is why i turn the xover point up a bit.
and yes you can. the passive well let it not go below a certain point but that does not mean you can't change the hpf on the amp or on the HU to redirect the signal going into the passive crossover. Typically the passive xover will have them set lower which is why i turn the xover point up a bit.
If you set the input to the passive network ABOVE the (2 way) filter's frequency, you will not have any output below that! Your midbass would be silent (provided it's connected to the passive's lowpass output). You will also have combined slopes, and phase issues. This would be a bad system design.
I don't know what you're trying to justify here, but I strongly suggest you read the BCAE1 site...
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Scinergy
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 487
From: Littleton, CO
To try and help the OP:
Get yourself a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). They can be purchased inexpensively from places like Harbor Freight (~$6.00).
Place it on the Omega symbol to check ohms. Touch the two leads together, and the display should read "0".
Disconnect the speaker leads from the amplifier.
Touch one of the leads of the DMM to the car's chassis (ground). Touch the other to either of the two speaker leads going to the crossover. The display should read a very high number...something like infinity...NOT "0", or a low number.
Compare the readings to the right channel, since you said that was working fine - even when you turn it up. I suspect the problem is your speaker wires are shorted to the chassis somewhere...most likely in the door. Double check that the speaker terminals are not touching the metal at the circular cutout of the door.
I hope that helps!
Get yourself a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). They can be purchased inexpensively from places like Harbor Freight (~$6.00).
Place it on the Omega symbol to check ohms. Touch the two leads together, and the display should read "0".
Disconnect the speaker leads from the amplifier.
Touch one of the leads of the DMM to the car's chassis (ground). Touch the other to either of the two speaker leads going to the crossover. The display should read a very high number...something like infinity...NOT "0", or a low number.
Compare the readings to the right channel, since you said that was working fine - even when you turn it up. I suspect the problem is your speaker wires are shorted to the chassis somewhere...most likely in the door. Double check that the speaker terminals are not touching the metal at the circular cutout of the door.
I hope that helps!
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 254
From: Independence, KY
Originally Posted by Makaveli
It sounds like you don't know what your doing. Take it to a Memphis authorized dealer before you do any more damage. You also voided the warranty by installing them yourself. A word of advice- do your homework before you mess with expensive equipment. FYI, set the HP at 80hz as well as LP your sub at 80hz also. Preferable both at 24db slope. Gain is very important in setting up amps. Good components should handle down to 50hz with no problem. Be sure to deaden your doors also.
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