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JeremyDoc's Ballin' thread. check it yo!

Old May 7, 2011 | 03:52 AM
  #541  
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ehhh not sure, but the rough roads could have indeed wiggled the sensor into place, but i would say your problem is solved! ahhaha
Old May 7, 2011 | 04:28 AM
  #542  
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^lol, my issue was the clamp to the intake at the throttle body wasn't tightened down enough. I was running short ram though, and didn't get a CEL when it was disconnected from the throttle body while driving.
Old May 7, 2011 | 06:57 AM
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niiice. next time i have an issue with intakes, ill just go offroading. haha
Old May 7, 2011 | 11:20 PM
  #544  
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Can you bring it over sometime? I've had a CEL for a while now, tried resetting the ECU but it comes back on. I also get horrible mpg about 25 highway.
Old May 8, 2011 | 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jeremydoc
so guys, i have a question....

so when i started my car this morning, the check engine light was still on obviously since i havnt done a fix for it yet. well, i drove to alhambra today to almansor park. well, i had my car parked there for a while, maybe like 6 hours. so i drove my friend to her house and got on the freeway back home. i noticed the check engine light was gone. WTF!?!? i didnt do anything at all to make it go away. not even as far as opening the hood since the light came on back during the install. i was wondering what might have caused it to go away? all i can think of is when my car was bouncing during rough roads, it might have wiggled the MAF into place or something. what happened? anything like this ever happen to you guys?
I'd guess that your cars ECU just fixed itself. From what I understand, it probably adjusted the new fuel/air ratio. And now the cel is gone becuase the problem is solved. Id guess the maf code was from the increase in airflow because of the intake. Your ecu thought it was the maf. seems to have fixed itself. Im just guessing though.
Old May 9, 2011 | 05:29 PM
  #546  
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Originally Posted by turd.ferguson
I'd guess that your cars ECU just fixed itself. From what I understand, it probably adjusted the new fuel/air ratio. And now the cel is gone becuase the problem is solved. Id guess the maf code was from the increase in airflow because of the intake. Your ecu thought it was the maf. seems to have fixed itself. Im just guessing though.
I'm thinking this too. It had to adjust to the new amount of air being taken in.
Old May 10, 2011 | 06:50 AM
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so i have good news, and bad news. well, the bad news is waaay worse. good news is my short shifter came in the mail, but at this point, im not even excited for it. bad news is i blew a tire AGAIN on the DAMN 710 freeway. i hate that freeway. but its the only way to get home from school. im gonna sell the torques and possibly buy new wheels. hopefully before hellaflush on the 21st. anyone interested in my wheels? hit me up, they'll be posted in the classifieds by this week.
Old May 10, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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Sucks bout your tire! Did it blow or did it unbead?
Old May 10, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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i think it unbeaded. but when i was looking at it closer today, i saw a tiney hole at the side. idk if it goes all the way through, ill have to see once i dismount it. cuz i was planning on reusing the tires if it was still good.
Old May 10, 2011 | 05:00 PM
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Sucks, dude. But you're running a pretty aggressive tire size, aren't you? 215/35 x9.5 seems like it would be difficult to DD on. Or do you think you're just having bad luck?
Old May 10, 2011 | 05:06 PM
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yeah, thats my specs. i didnt think that was tooo agressive. its cuz that damn 710 freeway in l.a. is horrible. when ppl say roads are terrible, just wait till they drive in l.a. freeways. im hoping to have a 10 inch wide rim with 215 with my next setup. what do you think?
Old May 10, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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215/35? I personally think it's pushing it. I mean sure for a car you don't daily drive. But if you'll be on that freeway everyday - I think 215/40. Its just my personal opinion, but to run 215/35 on a 10 daily? You've got some ***** lol
Old May 10, 2011 | 08:26 PM
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I run 215/40 on a 10 daily. 215/35 would be possible, but would ride like sheeet.
Old May 10, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jeremydoc
so guys, i have a question....

so when i started my car this morning, the check engine light was still on obviously since i havnt done a fix for it yet. well, i drove to alhambra today to almansor park. well, i had my car parked there for a while, maybe like 6 hours. so i drove my friend to her house and got on the freeway back home. i noticed the check engine light was gone. WTF!?!? i didnt do anything at all to make it go away. not even as far as opening the hood since the light came on back during the install. i was wondering what might have caused it to go away? all i can think of is when my car was bouncing during rough roads, it might have wiggled the MAF into place or something. what happened? anything like this ever happen to you guys?
I know this was posted a few days ago, but here's why it went off. Anytime you have a CEL in a vehicle it is stored. So the sensor tripped a couple days ago, its stored in the ECU. It does not always mean it is still present. Its more like a redundent system for people who don't want to figure out why the cars CEL is on. Anyways, it will stay on for "X" amount of ignition starts (car starting after being turned off) or "X" amount of miles once the problem is gone. This ensures that if the problem happens intermidently that the light will stay on notifing the user of the vehicle that something is wrong. This will always happen for all modern cars. The only light that once its on, will stay on will be something like an airbag light. As for why it came on, if pipe diameter is larger or smaller then the stock at the MAF point, it will flip the light on. All car's MAFs are designed to work for their specific intake. Or since the MAF was exposed to unfiltered air while changing intakes something could have gotten on it. If the new filter is oiled, a small bit of excess could have gotten on the maf and blown off after awhile.
Old May 11, 2011 | 02:10 AM
  #555  
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So if you get rid of the torques, do you plan on going an inch lower on the rims or stick to 18's?
Old May 11, 2011 | 08:29 AM
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so i need help guys!!!

i found the shop where i can get my new rims at. my two options are 17x10 +25, or 18x10 +25.

these are my views on it.

if i were to get 17s;
tires would be cheaper
i would be able to get a tire with a thicker sidewall for a smoother ride
i wont have to worry about rubbing the lips of the rims on the fenders


now, if i were to get 18s;
i would be able to reuse the tires i currently have(which are almost bald, so i would need to replace them soon anyways)
fitment would be on point since the gap between the lip of the rim and the fender would be very small.
the biggest size tire i would be able to get would be 215/35, any bigger i would need to raise the car.

im leaning towards 17s. im probably gonna make that call tomorrow and place the order, so if anyone changes my mind by afternoonish. hahaha
Old May 11, 2011 | 07:08 PM
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looks like ill be getting 18x10 all around. the 17s wont be back in stock till july. and i cant really wait for that. so, 18s it is then. ima make a downpayment in like 20 mins, and possibly pick em up by frday.
Old May 11, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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I think the 18"s were a better choice anyways, how much did the rims run you?
Old May 11, 2011 | 07:41 PM
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*sniff sniff* I smell stp1's...
Old May 11, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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Haha, I was thinking the same, stp-1's also doc r u still going to run your spacer?

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