Notices
Scion tC 1G Suspension & Handling Coilovers, Shocks, Airbags, Swaybars...

Install Ingalls Damper

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 21, 2006 | 06:45 PM
  #101  
AZURETCTONY's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 184
From: Bergen County, NJ
Default

Got any close up pictures? Does that damper install in the same position? Post or email them to me please.

Thanks,
~Tony~
Old Apr 21, 2006 | 06:45 PM
  #102  
robstamina's Avatar
Senior Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 170
Default

Originally Posted by AZURETCTONY
Well, still no real answers about my setup from Ingalls or CorsportUSA. Ingalls said: "I think it will fit but I want to make sure" but later in the day I got: "the engineer said that there might be a clearance issue with the bar itself". I sent some pictures of my setup to Tai @ CorsportUSA but no response yet. If nobody seems to know I might have to just take a chance, pick one up and inform the community. If it doesn’t in fact fit I may just sell the strut bar if the damper in fact seems to be the better of the two performance improvements.
definately tell us when you install it..

robs@ingallseng.com
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 11:44 PM
  #103  
The_Instigator's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,270
Default

Originally Posted by AZURETCTONY
Got any close up pictures? Does that damper install in the same position? Post or email them to me please.

Thanks,
~Tony~
Here you go:

You can also see the revised MMW brackets which are a huge improvement over the old design.



Old Apr 24, 2006 | 04:21 PM
  #104  
AZURETCTONY's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 184
From: Bergen County, NJ
Default

I just placed my Ingalls order from www.corsportusa.com and will update the forum with my findings/fitment with the Tanabe Sustec strut bar. Thanks everybody for your input and pictures.
Old Apr 24, 2006 | 10:21 PM
  #105  
robstamina's Avatar
Senior Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 170
Default

definately let us know..

Old Apr 28, 2006 | 04:00 PM
  #106  
DouBLeJ16's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,114
From: Cape Coral, Florida
Default

Is there anything else you can put in between to stop the vibration sound? I don't have any dynomat and I don't want to purchase any since I only need a tiny little piece.

Would a sponge work?

I'm open to any suggestions.
Old Apr 28, 2006 | 04:26 PM
  #107  
The_Instigator's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,270
Default

You could use a peice of roofing tar paper from a home improvement or hardware store. It has a similar function of being a dense material that can absorb vibrations. I just cant guarantee it wont melt in the under hood temps.
Old Apr 28, 2006 | 07:08 PM
  #108  
xnevergiveinx's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,408
From: North Royalton, OH
Default

Originally Posted by DouBLeJ16
Is there anything else you can put in between to stop the vibration sound? I don't have any dynomat and I don't want to purchase any since I only need a tiny little piece.

Would a sponge work?

I'm open to any suggestions.
i went to circuit city and spent like $10 on a license plate noise dampener...it's essentially a sheet of dynamat like material in the shape of a license plate.
i put down 2 layers
i still got vibrations and noise

what made a decent difference was swapping the orings for clotch reinforced toilet tank bolt washers from home depot. noise was lowered a little and vibration was much less.

in all actuality, i don't have my damper on anymore. i do some highway driving and i like to to be quiet. the engine damper also makes me have a heavier foot and i tend to want to speed alot more and spin the tires. i might be selling mine soon, pm me if anyone is interested. i might post in private party area
Old Apr 29, 2006 | 02:04 PM
  #109  
speddlysmitt's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
Team ScioNRG
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 552
From: Hartford, CT
Default

PM sent
Old May 1, 2006 | 04:15 PM
  #110  
AZURETCTONY's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 184
From: Bergen County, NJ
Default

Well im gunna install mine soon but I was just thinking that with the Tanabe strut bar it would seem more logical to install the damper bracket on top (like show with the weapon-r damper) since the strut bar bracket is larger and sits better the way it is. Anybody see any problem with this? I also want to paint the brackets first and get those teflon washers so I can do this right the first time.
Old May 3, 2006 | 03:46 AM
  #111  
SF2K4's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 712
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Default

Ok, so I just want to know, is it really that much louder without the dynamat? I really just don't want to bother with the stuff and just wanna put the darn thing on . But no really, I don't like the way the dynamat looks under the brackets and I don't want to upend my strut bar anymore than it already will be by the ETD.

Oh, and can anyone vouch for that guy who said cloth tank washers or whatever... toilet section at Home Depot... really are a better way to go?
Old May 3, 2006 | 05:10 AM
  #112  
xnevergiveinx's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,408
From: North Royalton, OH
Default

Originally Posted by SF2K4
Ok, so I just want to know, is it really that much louder without the dynamat? I really just don't want to bother with the stuff and just wanna put the darn thing on . But no really, I don't like the way the dynamat looks under the brackets and I don't want to upend my strut bar anymore than it already will be by the ETD.

Oh, and can anyone vouch for that guy who said cloth tank washers or whatever... toilet section at Home Depot... really are a better way to go?
the kit comes with steel washers if you don't have dynamat, i'm not sure on if it will make a difference in sound, i can only guess that it will be louder.

as far as tank bolt washers go, they reduce vibration more than they lower sound. the problem with the tank bolt washers is that they wear out quicker than the orings. i haven't tried this, but i'd like to install orings, followed by tank bolt washers.. plus 3 layers of dynamat...i bet that would get rid of most of the vibration and eliminate more noise.
you also have to realize that you will get more noise and vibration as you adjust the damper for more stiffness. it comes delivered on the second softest setting, which makes for a pretty quiet and vibration free ride. i moved mine up to the stiffest setting because i liked how it kept the wheels planted better, but that added some noise and some vibration.

the sound isn't terrible, it can be drown out by your cd player. it's not horrible, it's probably quite comparable to the sound of an aftermarket intake
Old May 6, 2006 | 08:52 PM
  #113  
user 7208230's Avatar
Banned
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,057
Default

Does anyone know with the dampner installed can you still run a strut bar also? Thanks
Old May 8, 2006 | 11:46 PM
  #114  
AZURETCTONY's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 184
From: Bergen County, NJ
Default * INGALLS INSTALL - REVIEW & PICTURES *

Well, I finally installed my Ingalls Damper today on my 2005 Auto TC after some planning and painting. I decided to ditch my Tanabe Strut Bar rather than dealing with clearance issues, uneven mounting, lack of bolt threading, and honestly it always seemed to be in the way. I also never really felt an improvement in handling with it, so I decided to make room for truly Positive upgrades.

As for the Damper, I custom painted the brackets with High-Temp Black paint & thin layers of spray-on rubberized coating. I also went out and got those cloth reinforced tank bolt washers, Blue Thread-locker, and installed some layers of Dynamat Xtreme under the strut tower bracket.

Overall, the install went smoothly after removing the strut bar and applying the Dynamat. I opted to bypass using the supplied washers on the strut tower bolts as well as the rubber o-rings by using the Dynamat & Cloth Reinforced tank bolt washers. For now the damper is set to its factory 14mm setting which I may adjust after some testing and break-in period.

On startup and while in Park, the damper is almost unnoticed although if you look at it up close it is already balancing engine movement. In Reverse, I noticed minor vibration/noise while accelerating. In my short test run, I observed little to no vibration/internal noise at cruising speed, only becoming slightly more noticeable on stop and start turning. During fairly hard acceleration the damper makes itself known with smoother gear shifts and pull. The braking & cornering also seem to be improved due to less engine sway. So far I am happy with the Ingalls “Stiffy” Engine Damper and will be testing it out on the highway tomorrow. I will update my findings ASAP. Below are some pictures pre & post install.







Old May 9, 2006 | 02:20 AM
  #115  
DouBLeJ16's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,114
From: Cape Coral, Florida
Default

Where exactly did you put the dynomat? Just where you can see in the picture or further back?
Old May 9, 2006 | 02:34 AM
  #116  
xnevergiveinx's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,408
From: North Royalton, OH
Default

^^ nice, it's too bad the engine bracket doesn't get seen more. good job
might as well go with the stiffest setting, you won't sacrifice much more noise or virbation and the wheel hop payoff is better
a note of caution...i had the tank bolt washers installed on mine for about a month, then i noticed that they start to shred away in the center. so you might want to install orings next to the tank bolt washers to stop that from happening to them
Old May 9, 2006 | 02:35 AM
  #117  
coppermine18's Avatar
Senior Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 528
From: Kennewick, WA
Default

Originally Posted by DouBLeJ16
Where exactly did you put the dynomat? Just where you can see in the picture or further back?
I would recommend laying the mount on the dynomat and trace it then make the cut to sit flush with it.

You can lay the bracket over where it will sit and get a good idea of what will not need dynomat.
Old May 9, 2006 | 12:47 PM
  #118  
DouBLeJ16's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,114
From: Cape Coral, Florida
Default

I'm going to try that peel n' seal stuff from home depot.. I can't find anyone that sells small sections of dynomat..

But I'm going to install this tonight.
Old May 9, 2006 | 02:23 PM
  #119  
DouBLeJ16's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,114
From: Cape Coral, Florida
Default Re: * INGALLS INSTALL - REVIEW & PICTURES *

Originally Posted by AZURETCTONY
I opted to bypass using the supplied washers on the strut tower bolts as well as the rubber o-rings by using the Dynamat & Cloth Reinforced tank bolt washers.
How many cloth reinforced tank bolt washers did you use it total?

Do you need them on the strut tower bolts and on the actually stiffy?
Old May 9, 2006 | 02:37 PM
  #120  
AZURETCTONY's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 184
From: Bergen County, NJ
Default

I used two, one on each end of the damper. Mounted in order of: BOLT - METAL WASHER - TANK BOLD WASHER - DAMPER - BRACKET - NUT. I didnt use any washers on the strut tower mounting, just Dynamat squished down with bracket and nut.



All times are GMT. The time now is 12:41 AM.