Install Ingalls Damper
Originally Posted by AZURETCTONY
Well, still no real answers about my setup from Ingalls or CorsportUSA. Ingalls said: "I think it will fit but I want to make sure" but later in the day I got: "the engineer said that there might be a clearance issue with the bar itself". I sent some pictures of my setup to Tai @ CorsportUSA but no response yet. If nobody seems to know I might have to just take a chance, pick one up and inform the community. If it doesn’t in fact fit I may just sell the strut bar if the damper in fact seems to be the better of the two performance improvements. 
robs@ingallseng.com
Originally Posted by AZURETCTONY
Got any close up pictures? Does that damper install in the same position? Post or email them to me please.
Thanks,
~Tony~
Thanks,
~Tony~
You can also see the revised MMW brackets which are a huge improvement over the old design.
I just placed my Ingalls order from www.corsportusa.com and will update the forum with my findings/fitment with the Tanabe Sustec strut bar. Thanks everybody for your input and pictures.
Is there anything else you can put in between to stop the vibration sound? I don't have any dynomat and I don't want to purchase any since I only need a tiny little piece.
Would a sponge work?
I'm open to any suggestions.
Would a sponge work?
I'm open to any suggestions.
You could use a peice of roofing tar paper from a home improvement or hardware store. It has a similar function of being a dense material that can absorb vibrations. I just cant guarantee it wont melt in the under hood temps.
Originally Posted by DouBLeJ16
Is there anything else you can put in between to stop the vibration sound? I don't have any dynomat and I don't want to purchase any since I only need a tiny little piece.
Would a sponge work?
I'm open to any suggestions.
Would a sponge work?
I'm open to any suggestions.
i put down 2 layers
i still got vibrations and noise
what made a decent difference was swapping the orings for clotch reinforced toilet tank bolt washers from home depot. noise was lowered a little and vibration was much less.
in all actuality, i don't have my damper on anymore. i do some highway driving and i like to to be quiet. the engine damper also makes me have a heavier foot and i tend to want to speed alot more and spin the tires. i might be selling mine soon, pm me if anyone is interested. i might post in private party area
Well im gunna install mine soon but I was just thinking that with the Tanabe strut bar it would seem more logical to install the damper bracket on top (like show with the weapon-r damper) since the strut bar bracket is larger and sits better the way it is. Anybody see any problem with this? I also want to paint the brackets first and get those teflon washers so I can do this right the first time.
Ok, so I just want to know, is it really that much louder without the dynamat? I really just don't want to bother with the stuff and just wanna put the darn thing on
. But no really, I don't like the way the dynamat looks under the brackets and I don't want to upend my strut bar anymore than it already will be by the ETD.
Oh, and can anyone vouch for that guy who said cloth tank washers or whatever... toilet section at Home Depot... really are a better way to go?
Oh, and can anyone vouch for that guy who said cloth tank washers or whatever... toilet section at Home Depot... really are a better way to go?
Originally Posted by SF2K4
Ok, so I just want to know, is it really that much louder without the dynamat? I really just don't want to bother with the stuff and just wanna put the darn thing on
. But no really, I don't like the way the dynamat looks under the brackets and I don't want to upend my strut bar anymore than it already will be by the ETD.
Oh, and can anyone vouch for that guy who said cloth tank washers or whatever... toilet section at Home Depot... really are a better way to go?
Oh, and can anyone vouch for that guy who said cloth tank washers or whatever... toilet section at Home Depot... really are a better way to go?
as far as tank bolt washers go, they reduce vibration more than they lower sound. the problem with the tank bolt washers is that they wear out quicker than the orings. i haven't tried this, but i'd like to install orings, followed by tank bolt washers.. plus 3 layers of dynamat...i bet that would get rid of most of the vibration and eliminate more noise.
you also have to realize that you will get more noise and vibration as you adjust the damper for more stiffness. it comes delivered on the second softest setting, which makes for a pretty quiet and vibration free ride. i moved mine up to the stiffest setting because i liked how it kept the wheels planted better, but that added some noise and some vibration.
the sound isn't terrible, it can be drown out by your cd player. it's not horrible, it's probably quite comparable to the sound of an aftermarket intake
Well, I finally installed my Ingalls Damper today on my 2005 Auto TC after some planning and painting. I decided to ditch my Tanabe Strut Bar rather than dealing with clearance issues, uneven mounting, lack of bolt threading, and honestly it always seemed to be in the way. I also never really felt an improvement in handling with it, so I decided to make room for truly Positive upgrades.
As for the Damper, I custom painted the brackets with High-Temp Black paint & thin layers of spray-on rubberized coating. I also went out and got those cloth reinforced tank bolt washers, Blue Thread-locker, and installed some layers of Dynamat Xtreme under the strut tower bracket.
Overall, the install went smoothly after removing the strut bar and applying the Dynamat. I opted to bypass using the supplied washers on the strut tower bolts as well as the rubber o-rings by using the Dynamat & Cloth Reinforced tank bolt washers. For now the damper is set to its factory 14mm setting which I may adjust after some testing and break-in period.
On startup and while in Park, the damper is almost unnoticed although if you look at it up close it is already balancing engine movement. In Reverse, I noticed minor vibration/noise while accelerating. In my short test run, I observed little to no vibration/internal noise at cruising speed, only becoming slightly more noticeable on stop and start turning. During fairly hard acceleration the damper makes itself known with smoother gear shifts and pull. The braking & cornering also seem to be improved due to less engine sway. So far I am happy with the Ingalls “Stiffy” Engine Damper and will be testing it out on the highway tomorrow. I will update my findings ASAP. Below are some pictures pre & post install.





As for the Damper, I custom painted the brackets with High-Temp Black paint & thin layers of spray-on rubberized coating. I also went out and got those cloth reinforced tank bolt washers, Blue Thread-locker, and installed some layers of Dynamat Xtreme under the strut tower bracket.
Overall, the install went smoothly after removing the strut bar and applying the Dynamat. I opted to bypass using the supplied washers on the strut tower bolts as well as the rubber o-rings by using the Dynamat & Cloth Reinforced tank bolt washers. For now the damper is set to its factory 14mm setting which I may adjust after some testing and break-in period.
On startup and while in Park, the damper is almost unnoticed although if you look at it up close it is already balancing engine movement. In Reverse, I noticed minor vibration/noise while accelerating. In my short test run, I observed little to no vibration/internal noise at cruising speed, only becoming slightly more noticeable on stop and start turning. During fairly hard acceleration the damper makes itself known with smoother gear shifts and pull. The braking & cornering also seem to be improved due to less engine sway. So far I am happy with the Ingalls “Stiffy” Engine Damper and will be testing it out on the highway tomorrow. I will update my findings ASAP. Below are some pictures pre & post install.



^^ nice, it's too bad the engine bracket doesn't get seen more. good job
might as well go with the stiffest setting, you won't sacrifice much more noise or virbation and the wheel hop payoff is better
a note of caution...i had the tank bolt washers installed on mine for about a month, then i noticed that they start to shred away in the center. so you might want to install orings next to the tank bolt washers to stop that from happening to them
might as well go with the stiffest setting, you won't sacrifice much more noise or virbation and the wheel hop payoff is better
a note of caution...i had the tank bolt washers installed on mine for about a month, then i noticed that they start to shred away in the center. so you might want to install orings next to the tank bolt washers to stop that from happening to them
Originally Posted by DouBLeJ16
Where exactly did you put the dynomat? Just where you can see in the picture or further back?
You can lay the bracket over where it will sit and get a good idea of what will not need dynomat.
Originally Posted by AZURETCTONY
I opted to bypass using the supplied washers on the strut tower bolts as well as the rubber o-rings by using the Dynamat & Cloth Reinforced tank bolt washers.
Do you need them on the strut tower bolts and on the actually stiffy?
I used two, one on each end of the damper. Mounted in order of: BOLT - METAL WASHER - TANK BOLD WASHER - DAMPER - BRACKET - NUT. I didnt use any washers on the strut tower mounting, just Dynamat squished down with bracket and nut.





