Off topic, but any chance you did/know of a DIY on this for us HID noobs?

 

Hmmmm....I actually don't think there is an official DIY, I started a thread awhile ago that has accumulated a lot of information about HIDs. I'm surprised it's not stickied yet...

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=197853

 

Druidiron: I don't think a DIY on installing HIDs exist on this forum.

To quickly run through... It's pretty straight forward. (1) Remove the factory headlight bulb. (2) plug the wires in. (3) Secure the Ballast.

No more than 10 minutes...

 

Check this link: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/HI...Wiring-Harness

 

druidiron you can just youtube it and you will find many videos on it. but yeah thats what i was thinking that its weird because people dont need the harness. it pretty dam annoying too.

 

Mods just don't like you.

@OP: Sounds like a bad connection or bad ballast. Is it both lights or just one? As Steve said, people with the tC2 really haven't had to get a relay to make the HIDs work.


@Druidiron: He's right it's pretty easy and doesn't require any tools. Deciding where/how to mount/secure the ballast is the toughest part and you'll notice people on here have done it a number of different ways.

 

oh and yeah i have the ddm slim kit. is it sure that the harness works?

 

Did you give it a few days to break it in?

It should work without a problem since its a wire that specifically designed to work with the HID connectors...

but yea, I'm with Steve on this... you shouldn't need to run the relay...

I myself got DDM slim kits (35w) as well... no problems what so ever

 

Click the link above. It's a DIY for first gen tCs on Relay Harnesses done by Meng Motorsports. Trust me, it helps.

I run both HID fogs and HID head lights with no harnesses at all and they run fine. Then again, I don't have a sound system or anything else drawing power.

 

Like in other threads, no relay harness is fine on TC1 and TC2 if you are connecting to stock bulb harnesses. if you decide to draw directly from battery, YES you SHOULD run a relay harness (that means no connecting to stock bulb sockets whatsoever).

Flickering? Bad ballasts / ignitors, get replacements.

 

yeah i got the 55w and i have two 12 inch subs in the back drawing power. but that shouldnt be a problem since its only when i turn the lights on and the bass isnt on at the time. when they are up and running their fine. its just when turn it on they shut off so i have to turn them back on. i do this 3 times and they work. only way to fix it is replace ballast?

 

correct, bad ballast it is. no worries on the drawing of other devices. doesn't point to the flickering problem.

 

alright thanks man. imma contact ddm

 

I've been having the same issues. I spoke with someone at DDM and they said I needed that wiring kit. I was kinda upset when it cost as much to ship some piece of wire as the little piece of wire.

 

Stickied and combined so all of the HID info is together

 

Just an FYI,

Here's my experience and opinion on 50/55-watt HIDs vs. 35-watt. 50/55-watt kits are brighter but won't help you see better, seems counter-intuitive but read on: the foreground brightness combined with the high contrast with the surrounding darkness outside of the projector's beam area constricts your pupils and reduces your ability to see outside of the lighted area, and the lighted area itself isn't increased vs. 35-watt.

I'm not going to rule out that higher wattage ballasts might be useful in rare circumstances, but I think most of you would actually be better off with 35 watt HIDs: you might see better overall.

 

Honestly, I'm sure there is validity to what you're saying.

The main reason I chose the 55w DDMs over the 35w was for bulb color. I just like how they burn whiter and reduce the chances of looking too blue.

 

Actually when you go 55w, it's recommended to go one temp higher to get the "true" color you want. so if I wanted a near stock-white color, 5000K would get me nearer to 4300K color. 6000K to get 5000K , etc.

Summary, a 35w-5000K would be close to 55w-6000K. Color variation is more in line with Kelvin temp than wattage. Variance in intensity is measured by power (wattage) in this case.

 

The higher wattage doesn't simply knock the "k" rating...it just washes out the color. This means that the blue colors (6000k+) will look less blue and the yellow colors (4300k-) will look less yellow. Everything becomes whiter and brighter.

 

Thnx for the re-wording, pretty close to what I said but in less technical terms. ;) I'm assuming when you say "less blue, less yellow..." you mean less intensity on that K temperature rating.