Lol if they were shaped like the stock bulbs it would be great. The stock bulbs have that L-shape where the connector faces down. Gives you so much more leverage.

 

Well i think im about screwed now. Ive been trying to force this thing for so long that the big notch completely broke off. Ugh fml. Now i have to go through getting a new and i get to do this all over again.

 

Noooooooo

 

Confirm for me that three notches is necessary because i dont wanna throw in the towel and put my other stock back in.

 

I would assume all 3 are necessary, but at this point, you are the only one that can answer that question. Give it a try and let us know!

 

Okay well i may have perform an hid cardinal sin but i switched the direction of the rubber washer things and it went in on the first try. Its not as solid but its in. Only thing is the passenger side looks kinda yellowish. Any ideas?

 

Swap bulbs and see if the color difference changes or switches sides. Or you can swap ballast if you don't wanna mess with bulbs lol. Always start off your troubleshooting with seeing of the problem follows the bulb or the ballast.

 

I swapped ballasts and the passenger side was still a little dimmer. What would swapping bulbs prove that swapping ballasts won't?

 

They both prove the exact same thing. You just proved that the problem follows the bulb and not the ballast. This means that you will probably need to RMA the bulbs to the manufacturer letting them know that you already did the necessary troubleshooting.

 

RMA?lol does that mean I have to send it back before they'll send me a new one? I'm leaving it for now. The difference isn't huge but enough to bug me to change it.

 

Those with 5k 35w lights is there a fair amount of blue along the cut off? I expected these to just be super super bright and they're not what I expected. I'm wondering if should just do 55w and throw in a harness.

 

Yeah exactly. I needed to do that with my DDM kit that i used for my fogs. It was about a week turnaround.

 

And DDM kits aren't rated quite right. If you want pure white from them you need their 55w 4500k option. That's what im running for my headlights.

 

4500k in 35w would be more yellow? I don't want it to be yellow cause I might as well keep my stock lights. I should have known after all the effort I put in that something wouldn't be right.lol Looking at the lights head on they don't look blue but when we were pulling into my driveway I saw wicked blue along the edges. I thought maybe I got 6k bulbs instead.

Just looking at videos of people posting their lights it they look so much brighter I was expecting it to be like daytime. I mean I didn't have a stock light in to compare but I felt like the light was really being absorbed and not illuminating that well.

How hard is it to set up a relay harness? Keep in mind my troubles of the day. I'm not mechanic here. This is the first time I've ever attempted something handy on my car and to show for it I've got two knots on my head from hitting my hood by accident and lights that don't seem quite right. Bad day. lol

 

Remember the real point of HID lighting is for increased brightness, not necessarily a huge change in color. 35w 4300k bulbs will have some yellow color to them but will be much brighter than your halogens. What brand kit do you have anyway?

And a relay harness won't have any effect on the light output. It is strictly to protect your cars wiring and ensure the ballast gets the power it needs during initial startup. I am running two hid sets without harnesses. They are not necessary for the cheaper Chinese made kits. Higher quality kits like Morimoto are going to have a higher current draw during startup, but not our bargain kits.

 

I have 5k 35w by DDM. Will I notice a difference in brightness if I get the 55w ballasts? And brighter lights is first priority but I also like them for the aesthetic quality as well. They just look nicer when looking at the car.

 

Keep in mind you can go the mixed route... I run DDM ballasts with the Morimoto bulbs to get true 4300k OEM look and it is pure beauty.

I learned by leaning hard on a DDM phone rep, that they use the same bulbs for 4500k and 5000k, so the colors are about the same, and thus...why they are sooo blue. Suggestion? Go with different, higher cost bulbs.

 

I thought you weren't supposed to get into the blue colors until 6k?

 

As you buy higher cost bulbs the colors get more true to life... DDM just uses lower end bulbs, so their 4500k and 5000k are the same, and they will output the same blue-tint color.

I learned this the hard way... DDM 4500k just were too blue. After many many suggestions, I bought Morimoto bulbs from the retrofit source (shipping was STUPID fast, like a day or two even on the basic shipping) and the difference was astonishing. Now, the 4300k bulbs are bright and white, and damn useful.

 

Hmm. Things to consider I guess. I only zipped around the block real quick and I wasn't even driving but I know when they fired up it was pretty bright down super dark areas but any light would be. I was just expecting way more. I fired them up next to my cousins stock lights and they were much whiter but like I said it felt like the color was just blending into the scenery and not illuminating it. I went with DDM because most people here seem to go with them and say their bulbs were the most consistent.