nitrous
on an xA? or hell even an Xb(1st gen.)??? i couldn't see someone puttin that much force on the engine and being able to sustain it on a lil 1.5L without blowen your headers or somethin. ive seen sum sweet turbo set-ups, including myself with one. well used to, i took that shiz out. i ended up bustin my ride. dam near nedded a rebuild the engine to get it runnin again. ive learned the expensive way, you just cant get much of a reliable substantial power gain on the 1NZ-FE's.
Blowing your headers? I don't even think that's possible. PM blownxA, he's ran supercharger, supercharger + nitrous, and now turbo + meth injection. Nitrous is possible in the 1NZ-FE but anything over a 35-50 HP shot will greatly reduce engine life, most likely breaking a connecting ros since they are the weakest link on the stock internals. To get it to work right, I'd suggest a wet shot and some kind of aftermarket ignition control to pull timing when the shot is activated, and someone to tune it.
I really don't think it's worth it unless you go to the track, but with a small HP increase it won't be doing much for drag, maybe let you break 15, and for AutoX I'm not sure if it's even allowed. Bottle refills also add up over time, and if I'm paying for a power adder, I'd rather have it available all of the time.
padilla, if you blew your engine on the turbo you had install issues, a bad turbo, bad tune, overboosted or driving error. The Greddy turbo is reliable for these engines with a few mods, mainly upgrading to tC injectors that don't come with the kit and getting a good tune, the Greddy map with stock injectors will lean out on the top end. You'll also want a BOV (recirculating preferred) and a pressure sensor for the eManage, they really help tuning and driveability.
I mainly like the turbo not for the extra top-end power, but for the mid-range bump. Now when I go up hills instead of the engine revving to 3.5k and performing like an asmatic hampster, the tac sits at a comfortable 2.5k and the boost needle is the only thing that goes up.
For a shameless self plug, I'm selling my Greddy to move up to the 365Motorwerks Garrett kit, but that's because a built motor is going in to handle the extra power.
I really don't think it's worth it unless you go to the track, but with a small HP increase it won't be doing much for drag, maybe let you break 15, and for AutoX I'm not sure if it's even allowed. Bottle refills also add up over time, and if I'm paying for a power adder, I'd rather have it available all of the time.
padilla, if you blew your engine on the turbo you had install issues, a bad turbo, bad tune, overboosted or driving error. The Greddy turbo is reliable for these engines with a few mods, mainly upgrading to tC injectors that don't come with the kit and getting a good tune, the Greddy map with stock injectors will lean out on the top end. You'll also want a BOV (recirculating preferred) and a pressure sensor for the eManage, they really help tuning and driveability.
I mainly like the turbo not for the extra top-end power, but for the mid-range bump. Now when I go up hills instead of the engine revving to 3.5k and performing like an asmatic hampster, the tac sits at a comfortable 2.5k and the boost needle is the only thing that goes up.
For a shameless self plug, I'm selling my Greddy to move up to the 365Motorwerks Garrett kit, but that's because a built motor is going in to handle the extra power.
i figured it was my mechanical error, i didnt take the time to try to figure out what specifically caused it. this was my first turbo install so im certain i probably over looked something. i had mine runnin for a lil over a year. i might of been a lil exaggerated with the headers handling the N02 but ive had sum bad luck with headers, and i knew a friend with a similar problem.
would N02 even be worth the trouble and money tho. i've had my eye on a kit but i just figured it would be more effective on a solid 2.0-2.4L or bigger.
would N02 even be worth the trouble and money tho. i've had my eye on a kit but i just figured it would be more effective on a solid 2.0-2.4L or bigger.
Headers I'm thinking of are exhaust side, and the only problem I've ever seen with them is for turbos, either the gasket at the block doesn't seal or the weld cracks for the stainless tube manifolds.
Intake manifold for nitrous is a different story. The preferred route is to run a seperate port for each cylinder, but since we have plastic intake manifolds you can thread the jets in and have them hold, so you end up with a single jet before the throttle body. Pressure won't blow the intake manifold, even turbo it will hold 20+ psi of boost.
If you didn't have a hole in the block, chances are it wasn't your rods. I haven't seen one yet that bends but doesn't break and punch a hole. There's been issues with the Greddy oil feed line busting and that could lead to oil starvation locking the block. That's why I'm running an aftermarker oil feed line. Wastegate sticking could also cause it to overboost, the main reason to run a boost gauge.
I agree, N2O (it's and oxide, not an oxate), isn't worth it for this 1.5L. Not legal for street use, tank takes up trunk space, need a bottle heater to get constant pressure, still requires tuning and EFI to run properly, needs refills, SERIOUS risk of engine damage if you don't purge the lines before use and it pools, and power only at wide open throttle. Really it's pretty pointless outside of drag racing other then to have something shiny in the trunk, space I'd rather use for subwoofers.
I will have a nitrous bottle in my car this year, but I will be using it as a chiller bar for the turbo intercooler on occasion that I do want to go race at the local track. I will be running a lighted purge valve for night shows, but it's not needed for the chiller bar. if you just want the purge effect, there are kits out there just for show that don't hook to the engine. They scream rice to me though.
Intake manifold for nitrous is a different story. The preferred route is to run a seperate port for each cylinder, but since we have plastic intake manifolds you can thread the jets in and have them hold, so you end up with a single jet before the throttle body. Pressure won't blow the intake manifold, even turbo it will hold 20+ psi of boost.
If you didn't have a hole in the block, chances are it wasn't your rods. I haven't seen one yet that bends but doesn't break and punch a hole. There's been issues with the Greddy oil feed line busting and that could lead to oil starvation locking the block. That's why I'm running an aftermarker oil feed line. Wastegate sticking could also cause it to overboost, the main reason to run a boost gauge.
I agree, N2O (it's and oxide, not an oxate), isn't worth it for this 1.5L. Not legal for street use, tank takes up trunk space, need a bottle heater to get constant pressure, still requires tuning and EFI to run properly, needs refills, SERIOUS risk of engine damage if you don't purge the lines before use and it pools, and power only at wide open throttle. Really it's pretty pointless outside of drag racing other then to have something shiny in the trunk, space I'd rather use for subwoofers.
I will have a nitrous bottle in my car this year, but I will be using it as a chiller bar for the turbo intercooler on occasion that I do want to go race at the local track. I will be running a lighted purge valve for night shows, but it's not needed for the chiller bar. if you just want the purge effect, there are kits out there just for show that don't hook to the engine. They scream rice to me though.
im going with the zex safe shot its a 30 shot and u can get extras with it like window switch and all that good stuff, im gonna post some pis and make a thread when i get it all on a tuned, i had a 50 shot on my old civic and it ran fine while i had it and the guy who has it now is still spraying it now and that was 3 years ago!
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