a REAL project
11-10-2008, 10:19 PM
#61
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 1,414
part 3 of recent update:
the transfer case of a 2nd gen MANUAL Rav4 *2001-2005* plus extension seal will bolt *judging by the bolt pattern on the Rav4's manual trans and on the 93+ MR2 turbo E153 trans, it's the same and is the same trans but different ratios.* should bolt straight to the 93+ MR2 turbo E153 transmission and gives the clearance needed as a AWD setup with ALL of the V6 options being the 3VZFE 3.0L *too heavy engine*, 1MZFE 3.0L *alright engine, light and optional but not the BEST* and the 2GRFE *the BEST and biggest possibility option*.
so it's almost said and done and ready to get under way.
here is some weight differences info for the new possibilities.
ENGINE W/O TRANSMISSION + list of usable transmissions:
*1NZFE - Aluminum, 187lbs, interference, chain driven, 1.5L I4 VVTi, transmissions - C50, C59 and C60
*ZZ engines - Aluminum, roughly 260-290lbs, interference, chain driven, 1.8L I4 VVTi and VVTL-i, transmissions - C59 and C60
*3SGTE - Iron, roughly 410lbs, non-interference, belt driven, 2.0L I4 turbo OBD1, transmissions - E150, E151, E151F, E153, E153F and E154F
*3VZFE - Iron, roughly 630lbs, non-interference, belt driven, 3.0L V6 OBD1, E350, E151, E153, R151F and R153
*1MZFE - Aluminum, roughly 370lbs, non-interference, chain driven, 3.0L V6 VVTi, transmissions - E351, E153 and E151
*2GRFE- Aluminum, roughly 395lbs, interference, chain driven, 3.5L V6 *Dual VVTi, transmissions - E351, E153 and revised 2001+ E153F with crap gearing.
EDIT:
for the best option, the 2GRFE would be the supreme due to it's displacement, it's GR series performance head, dual injection system consisting of both port and direct injection. on top of that it runs Dual VVTi which makes for yes, harder but more precise.
the cost to actually do this setup is similar to a mildly to somewhat powerful 3SGTE build. below is a list of some of the higher expensive parts and the many notes that i can effectively mention before anyone needs to go into any further reading within the listed source links.
-2GRFE engine - used roughly $2,500-4,000
-E153 93+ MR2 turbo tranny - used roughly $250-1,000
-1MZFE oem or aftermarket flywheel - roughly $170-300
-3SGTE based clutch *for 93+ Celica Altrac or MR2 Turbo* - roughly $300-3,000 *depending on what kind of clutch you want*
-2001-2005 Rav4 4WD manual Transfer case - used *unknown* new roughly $1,850
-use all ST185 or ST205 Altrac rear end drive train assembly from a fully equiped half cut, this also includes front and rear wheel hub assemblies - roughly $1,200-3,000
-for turbo, use Garrett GT3582R or equivalent for upto 8-12lbs of boost, any higher may require new rods and pistons, turbo with some additives *SS exhaust housing for easier fitment, ported shroud for added surge protection and polished compressor for pretty-ness* $1,700 @ ATPturbo.
-for internals, no parts are available, Crower rods can be custom made, Wisco pistons can be custom made, price difference over readily available parts is about 5-10% more out of pocket. Eagle can make H-beam rods custom aswell.
-going over 15-18lbs boost not recommended, no known metal head gaskets are available for the 2GR to my knowledge at this time, nor are there any new head bolts or studs, note 15-18lbs boost should result in roughly 700-800hp and 700-900lbs torque.
-right front drive axle requires modification, a cut of roughly 40mm with the use of the Rav4's drive axle. left side requires no modification and use the Altrac drive axle. everything from the transfer case and back can all be Altrac ST185 and ST205.
-both the 2001-2005 Transmission and Transfer Case combo of the Rav4 and the E153 + 01-05 Rav4 Transfer case can be used. difference is, the Rav4 tranny has much shorter gearing and tops out at roughly 135-140mph with acceptable tire sizes for our xB due to the Rav4 using shorter gears with bigger wheels where as the E153 MR2 turbo tranny has much longer gearing that results in a 160mph or so top end with our acceptable tire sizes. though for acceleration, the Rav4 trans would be a better choice, but with 400+hp and torque, it wouldn't matter which one you use considering it's AWD, 400+hp and on a 2,300lb chassis that's got some reinforcements done to it...
all in all, that's about it except for a bunch of little parts. i would suggest not using more then 10-12lbs boost for a few reasons. one cause of no metal or multi layer metal head gasket to my knowledge yet. two cause of no head bolts or studs, three because there is no known upgrade for between crank and connection rod journal bearings or main bearings either. once i've got a 2GR torn down in the shop, i'll see if i can't find any existing bearings that can be modified or dropped in that are meant for similar power from a different engine *kind of like are 22r bearings and rods can be machined to be used in the 1MZ*. and last, four, because the 2GRFE uses dual injection *port and direct* the best thing to do is to stick with a piggy back ECU and stay within the 10-12lbs boost area, use the Garrett GT3582R and that 10-12lbs boost will be phenomenal.
i would suggest using a twin turbo setup but there simply isn't enough room in our engine. even after modification, using the GT3582R for decent FI power is about as far as you're going to get and if you manage to do a damn good job tuning a stand alone, the GT3582R will be PLENTY of power for you. at this point, only thing i REALLY have to say is this.... this specific setup wil get you power hungry monsters what you want out of the xB and with decent fuel economy of roughly 24-28mpg after boost. the thing is now... after about 800hp and 750lbs torque... the drive train wont hold up... this means you have a head room of upto roughly 800hp and 750lbs torque.
well, that's it for now, at least until i get a complete parts list formulated. this is it for the AWD 1st gen Scion xB monster. V6 3.5L turbo AWD without TOO much modification for fitment. oddly enough, 500hp from the 2GR will require 20lbs-23lbs of boost, i believe my calculations are wrong so i'm going to go over them again. i know of a few 2GR engines that are turbo'd with roughly 15lbs that make that same power. i've done the math several times and keep comming up with the same thing so i think it has to do with the dual injection system and the extreme efficiency of the Dual VVTi among other things that are throwing the math off.
also know that in the next few years, toyota will be releasing some new engine models, of which their efficiency being so great that i suspect the next 2.4L I4 engine to generate similar power to that of the 2GR's stock power which is roughly 260-290hp and 250-280lbs torque *gas quality dependable*. their next 1.5 or 1.8L *can't remember* will be roughly 180+hp and the next 2.0L will be roughly 210+hp with quad cam mechanics. nothing can be said yet about the torque end if it's being dropped for the hp or if it'll rise with hp aswell... in other words, will toyota go the honda route and do all hp and gutless torque, or are they going to spit back in honda's face with more hp AND torque... i don't know for sure but it's just a heads up for other possible engine swaps of the future.
the transfer case of a 2nd gen MANUAL Rav4 *2001-2005* plus extension seal will bolt *judging by the bolt pattern on the Rav4's manual trans and on the 93+ MR2 turbo E153 trans, it's the same and is the same trans but different ratios.* should bolt straight to the 93+ MR2 turbo E153 transmission and gives the clearance needed as a AWD setup with ALL of the V6 options being the 3VZFE 3.0L *too heavy engine*, 1MZFE 3.0L *alright engine, light and optional but not the BEST* and the 2GRFE *the BEST and biggest possibility option*.
so it's almost said and done and ready to get under way.
here is some weight differences info for the new possibilities.
ENGINE W/O TRANSMISSION + list of usable transmissions:
*1NZFE - Aluminum, 187lbs, interference, chain driven, 1.5L I4 VVTi, transmissions - C50, C59 and C60
*ZZ engines - Aluminum, roughly 260-290lbs, interference, chain driven, 1.8L I4 VVTi and VVTL-i, transmissions - C59 and C60
*3SGTE - Iron, roughly 410lbs, non-interference, belt driven, 2.0L I4 turbo OBD1, transmissions - E150, E151, E151F, E153, E153F and E154F
*3VZFE - Iron, roughly 630lbs, non-interference, belt driven, 3.0L V6 OBD1, E350, E151, E153, R151F and R153
*1MZFE - Aluminum, roughly 370lbs, non-interference, chain driven, 3.0L V6 VVTi, transmissions - E351, E153 and E151
*2GRFE- Aluminum, roughly 395lbs, interference, chain driven, 3.5L V6 *Dual VVTi, transmissions - E351, E153 and revised 2001+ E153F with crap gearing.
EDIT:
for the best option, the 2GRFE would be the supreme due to it's displacement, it's GR series performance head, dual injection system consisting of both port and direct injection. on top of that it runs Dual VVTi which makes for yes, harder but more precise.
the cost to actually do this setup is similar to a mildly to somewhat powerful 3SGTE build. below is a list of some of the higher expensive parts and the many notes that i can effectively mention before anyone needs to go into any further reading within the listed source links.
-2GRFE engine - used roughly $2,500-4,000
-E153 93+ MR2 turbo tranny - used roughly $250-1,000
-1MZFE oem or aftermarket flywheel - roughly $170-300
-3SGTE based clutch *for 93+ Celica Altrac or MR2 Turbo* - roughly $300-3,000 *depending on what kind of clutch you want*
-2001-2005 Rav4 4WD manual Transfer case - used *unknown* new roughly $1,850
-use all ST185 or ST205 Altrac rear end drive train assembly from a fully equiped half cut, this also includes front and rear wheel hub assemblies - roughly $1,200-3,000
-for turbo, use Garrett GT3582R or equivalent for upto 8-12lbs of boost, any higher may require new rods and pistons, turbo with some additives *SS exhaust housing for easier fitment, ported shroud for added surge protection and polished compressor for pretty-ness* $1,700 @ ATPturbo.
-for internals, no parts are available, Crower rods can be custom made, Wisco pistons can be custom made, price difference over readily available parts is about 5-10% more out of pocket. Eagle can make H-beam rods custom aswell.
-going over 15-18lbs boost not recommended, no known metal head gaskets are available for the 2GR to my knowledge at this time, nor are there any new head bolts or studs, note 15-18lbs boost should result in roughly 700-800hp and 700-900lbs torque.
-right front drive axle requires modification, a cut of roughly 40mm with the use of the Rav4's drive axle. left side requires no modification and use the Altrac drive axle. everything from the transfer case and back can all be Altrac ST185 and ST205.
-both the 2001-2005 Transmission and Transfer Case combo of the Rav4 and the E153 + 01-05 Rav4 Transfer case can be used. difference is, the Rav4 tranny has much shorter gearing and tops out at roughly 135-140mph with acceptable tire sizes for our xB due to the Rav4 using shorter gears with bigger wheels where as the E153 MR2 turbo tranny has much longer gearing that results in a 160mph or so top end with our acceptable tire sizes. though for acceleration, the Rav4 trans would be a better choice, but with 400+hp and torque, it wouldn't matter which one you use considering it's AWD, 400+hp and on a 2,300lb chassis that's got some reinforcements done to it...
all in all, that's about it except for a bunch of little parts. i would suggest not using more then 10-12lbs boost for a few reasons. one cause of no metal or multi layer metal head gasket to my knowledge yet. two cause of no head bolts or studs, three because there is no known upgrade for between crank and connection rod journal bearings or main bearings either. once i've got a 2GR torn down in the shop, i'll see if i can't find any existing bearings that can be modified or dropped in that are meant for similar power from a different engine *kind of like are 22r bearings and rods can be machined to be used in the 1MZ*. and last, four, because the 2GRFE uses dual injection *port and direct* the best thing to do is to stick with a piggy back ECU and stay within the 10-12lbs boost area, use the Garrett GT3582R and that 10-12lbs boost will be phenomenal.
i would suggest using a twin turbo setup but there simply isn't enough room in our engine. even after modification, using the GT3582R for decent FI power is about as far as you're going to get and if you manage to do a damn good job tuning a stand alone, the GT3582R will be PLENTY of power for you. at this point, only thing i REALLY have to say is this.... this specific setup wil get you power hungry monsters what you want out of the xB and with decent fuel economy of roughly 24-28mpg after boost. the thing is now... after about 800hp and 750lbs torque... the drive train wont hold up... this means you have a head room of upto roughly 800hp and 750lbs torque.
well, that's it for now, at least until i get a complete parts list formulated. this is it for the AWD 1st gen Scion xB monster. V6 3.5L turbo AWD without TOO much modification for fitment. oddly enough, 500hp from the 2GR will require 20lbs-23lbs of boost, i believe my calculations are wrong so i'm going to go over them again. i know of a few 2GR engines that are turbo'd with roughly 15lbs that make that same power. i've done the math several times and keep comming up with the same thing so i think it has to do with the dual injection system and the extreme efficiency of the Dual VVTi among other things that are throwing the math off.
also know that in the next few years, toyota will be releasing some new engine models, of which their efficiency being so great that i suspect the next 2.4L I4 engine to generate similar power to that of the 2GR's stock power which is roughly 260-290hp and 250-280lbs torque *gas quality dependable*. their next 1.5 or 1.8L *can't remember* will be roughly 180+hp and the next 2.0L will be roughly 210+hp with quad cam mechanics. nothing can be said yet about the torque end if it's being dropped for the hp or if it'll rise with hp aswell... in other words, will toyota go the honda route and do all hp and gutless torque, or are they going to spit back in honda's face with more hp AND torque... i don't know for sure but it's just a heads up for other possible engine swaps of the future.
11-11-2008, 03:11 AM
#62
Senior Member
SL Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 1,414
some comparative images of the revised E153 from the Rav4 and the E153 from the 93+ MR2 turbo. take a look at the bolt points of where the transfer case would go on either of the transmissions. also, some comparative images of the two different transfer cases, first being the transfer case from the ST185 Celica and the second from then 01-05 Rav4, now you can see the clearance issues and fixes with the Rav4 transfer case.
93+ MR2 Turbo trans matted to 2GRFE
01-05 Rav4 4WD manual trans, same bolt pattern both on the trans AND the transfer case extension point suggest it's the same E153 with different gearing.
Celica ST185 Transfer Case
01-05 Rav4 4WD manual trans transfer case
strength of either one is so far, comparable... just a difference of design as far as i can tell. 01-05 Rav4's are seen doing medium to heavy abuse rally sport using that transfer case which suggests it'll do just fine in a 4WD / AWD rally based setup.
that's it for now.
parts list will be made up as i do the build. as for how long until the build... i can't tell at the moment but it will happen soon.
93+ MR2 Turbo trans matted to 2GRFE
01-05 Rav4 4WD manual trans, same bolt pattern both on the trans AND the transfer case extension point suggest it's the same E153 with different gearing.
Celica ST185 Transfer Case
01-05 Rav4 4WD manual trans transfer case
strength of either one is so far, comparable... just a difference of design as far as i can tell. 01-05 Rav4's are seen doing medium to heavy abuse rally sport using that transfer case which suggests it'll do just fine in a 4WD / AWD rally based setup.
that's it for now.
parts list will be made up as i do the build. as for how long until the build... i can't tell at the moment but it will happen soon.
01-06-2009, 01:10 AM
#63
Senior Member
SL Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 1,414
UPDATE:
some new info and some fixed info.
ENGINE WEIGHT W/O TRANSMISSION + list of usable transmissions:
*1NZFE - Aluminum, 187lbs, interference, chain driven, 1.5L I4 VVTi, transmissions - C50, C59 and C60
*ZZ engines - Aluminum, roughly 260-290lbs, interference, chain driven, 1.8L I4 VVTi and VVTL-i, transmissions - C59 and C60
*3SGTE - Iron, roughly 410lbs, non-interference, belt driven, 2.0L I4 turbo OBD1, transmissions - E150, E151, E151F, E153, E153F and E154F
*3VZFE - Iron, roughly 630lbs, non-interference, belt driven, 3.0L V6 OBD1, E350, E151, E153, R151F, R153 and E53
*1MZFE - Aluminum, roughly 401lbs, non-interference, chain driven, 3.0L V6 VVTi, transmissions - E351, E153, E151 and E53
*2GRFE- Aluminum, roughly 356lbs, interference, chain driven, 3.5L V6 *Dual VVTi, transmissions - E351, E153 and revised 2001+ E153F with crap gearing and E53
WHAT WE WANT: *new info*
-E153 trans from 01-05 Toyota Rav4 Sport *this includes the transfer case aswell*
-E53 trans from 1999-ish 5spd Camry. the gearing in this trans is directly swappable with the gearing in the Rav4's E153 and will allow for much higher speeds. a stop speed break for the E153 being roughly 150mph at 7,500rpm with 225/50/16 tires, with the E53 gearing, it's roughly 180mph at 7,500rpm with 225/50/16 tires. *if you look into this, please don't be reckless, i would only suggest it for the lower cruising rpms for highway travel to improve economy. otherwise, please just stick to the Rav4 gearing unless you only intend on going in a straight line on the drag strip.* *it may also be possible to use the E53 with the Rav4 sport's transfercase, this is not certain though.*.
-2GRFE engine from the years 2004.5-2006.5, any newer end it will automatically be a 2GRFSE with dual port+direct injection system. *the 2GRFSE uses a very unique ECU, of which Toyota has filled over 300 patents for the ECU's design and programing... i doubt Toyota will be letting that go any time soon for custom builders.*
-there may be a degree of block relief needed to make the Rav4 sport Transfercase to fit with clearance to the side of the engine block. this is uncertain still as the only thing i've found on this was on a 3VZFE swap which has a longer stroke to the operation so the 2GRFE may already have the clearance due to it's shorter stoke with big bore.
-in other findings, the 2GRFE comes stock with 370cc injectors. rods are not forged, they are tooth picks. stock crank and rod bearings are monstrously strong and will hold 800+hp, cams have pretty aggressive lifts to them and should prove not needed to replace and should support upto 7,500rpm, all 2004.5-2006.5 models come with 10.5:1 compression. it's unknown yet whether or not the pistons are center balanced or offset balanced. i'm contemplating on buying a single rod and piston to have sent off to Pauter and Wisco to get measurements for my own data and at the same time, give them something to add to their catalog.
EDIT: i will be putting any and all related info about this project into my blog, it is viewable to the public and will have all the info needed to do a Project RS setup in your 1st gen xB. for you xA guys, sorry, it wont fit. you can thank the shape of your hood and bumper assembly for that...
Blog is here - http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...ogID=451711008
some new info and some fixed info.
ENGINE WEIGHT W/O TRANSMISSION + list of usable transmissions:
*1NZFE - Aluminum, 187lbs, interference, chain driven, 1.5L I4 VVTi, transmissions - C50, C59 and C60
*ZZ engines - Aluminum, roughly 260-290lbs, interference, chain driven, 1.8L I4 VVTi and VVTL-i, transmissions - C59 and C60
*3SGTE - Iron, roughly 410lbs, non-interference, belt driven, 2.0L I4 turbo OBD1, transmissions - E150, E151, E151F, E153, E153F and E154F
*3VZFE - Iron, roughly 630lbs, non-interference, belt driven, 3.0L V6 OBD1, E350, E151, E153, R151F, R153 and E53
*1MZFE - Aluminum, roughly 401lbs, non-interference, chain driven, 3.0L V6 VVTi, transmissions - E351, E153, E151 and E53
*2GRFE- Aluminum, roughly 356lbs, interference, chain driven, 3.5L V6 *Dual VVTi, transmissions - E351, E153 and revised 2001+ E153F with crap gearing and E53
WHAT WE WANT: *new info*
-E153 trans from 01-05 Toyota Rav4 Sport *this includes the transfer case aswell*
-E53 trans from 1999-ish 5spd Camry. the gearing in this trans is directly swappable with the gearing in the Rav4's E153 and will allow for much higher speeds. a stop speed break for the E153 being roughly 150mph at 7,500rpm with 225/50/16 tires, with the E53 gearing, it's roughly 180mph at 7,500rpm with 225/50/16 tires. *if you look into this, please don't be reckless, i would only suggest it for the lower cruising rpms for highway travel to improve economy. otherwise, please just stick to the Rav4 gearing unless you only intend on going in a straight line on the drag strip.* *it may also be possible to use the E53 with the Rav4 sport's transfercase, this is not certain though.*.
-2GRFE engine from the years 2004.5-2006.5, any newer end it will automatically be a 2GRFSE with dual port+direct injection system. *the 2GRFSE uses a very unique ECU, of which Toyota has filled over 300 patents for the ECU's design and programing... i doubt Toyota will be letting that go any time soon for custom builders.*
-there may be a degree of block relief needed to make the Rav4 sport Transfercase to fit with clearance to the side of the engine block. this is uncertain still as the only thing i've found on this was on a 3VZFE swap which has a longer stroke to the operation so the 2GRFE may already have the clearance due to it's shorter stoke with big bore.
-in other findings, the 2GRFE comes stock with 370cc injectors. rods are not forged, they are tooth picks. stock crank and rod bearings are monstrously strong and will hold 800+hp, cams have pretty aggressive lifts to them and should prove not needed to replace and should support upto 7,500rpm, all 2004.5-2006.5 models come with 10.5:1 compression. it's unknown yet whether or not the pistons are center balanced or offset balanced. i'm contemplating on buying a single rod and piston to have sent off to Pauter and Wisco to get measurements for my own data and at the same time, give them something to add to their catalog.
EDIT: i will be putting any and all related info about this project into my blog, it is viewable to the public and will have all the info needed to do a Project RS setup in your 1st gen xB. for you xA guys, sorry, it wont fit. you can thank the shape of your hood and bumper assembly for that...
Blog is here - http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...ogID=451711008
01-15-2009, 04:30 AM
#65
Senior Member
SL Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 1,414
UPDATE
got some info on cam timing and some other parts of info needed for doing a 2GR build up.
cam durations as follows:
intake - 254*
exhaust - 244*
the rest of the info is all from reliable source.
also, some engine sizing info:
Transverse Length - 2GRFE + E153 trans end to end length = 36.5" + 3/4" added length from the water bump pulley bolt.
Transverse Engine Width - 26" at the widest point
got some info on cam timing and some other parts of info needed for doing a 2GR build up.
cam durations as follows:
intake - 254*
exhaust - 244*
the rest of the info is all from reliable source.
these specs are from the book:
intake duration: 254*
exhaust duration: 244*
actual lift on the cam i have: 6.35mm lift
the rocker ratio was a little difficult to measure, but my best guess is 1.55 +/- .02
this makes the actual valve lift somewhere between 9.72mm and 9.97mm
the good news for people wanting to modify these motors is the base circle size. it is a large 37.9mm and you would not run into rocker interference until you got down to a 29mm base circle. this pretty much means you can regrind these cams to any profile you want.
if you look here: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_200...AGKA_1104.html
you'll notice that the cams ride in their own holder that can probably be lowered a few thousands to take up the slop from the smaller base circles. as long as the timing chain tension er can make up the difference and the cams can be re-timed. there are five different dowel pin locations on the cams, i suspect this would allow for a significant freedom in re-timing.
as for the pistons, they are made by Mahle, the connecting rods (center to center) are 147mm long, giving a 1.77:1 rod ratio.
the rods are H shaped with the cross-sectional area at the smallest point being 202mm^2 (about 0.31 square inches)
the crank bearing OD appears to not be metric, it is 2.2" exactly or 55.88mm this means undersize bearings can probably be found if you wanted to add a bit of stroke to the motor. this is probably pointless though since i beleive a 1GR crank would fit and take you from 84mm stroke to 95mm stroke (and bring the rod ratio down to 1.55:1)
intake duration: 254*
exhaust duration: 244*
actual lift on the cam i have: 6.35mm lift
the rocker ratio was a little difficult to measure, but my best guess is 1.55 +/- .02
this makes the actual valve lift somewhere between 9.72mm and 9.97mm
the good news for people wanting to modify these motors is the base circle size. it is a large 37.9mm and you would not run into rocker interference until you got down to a 29mm base circle. this pretty much means you can regrind these cams to any profile you want.
if you look here: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_200...AGKA_1104.html
you'll notice that the cams ride in their own holder that can probably be lowered a few thousands to take up the slop from the smaller base circles. as long as the timing chain tension er can make up the difference and the cams can be re-timed. there are five different dowel pin locations on the cams, i suspect this would allow for a significant freedom in re-timing.
as for the pistons, they are made by Mahle, the connecting rods (center to center) are 147mm long, giving a 1.77:1 rod ratio.
the rods are H shaped with the cross-sectional area at the smallest point being 202mm^2 (about 0.31 square inches)
the crank bearing OD appears to not be metric, it is 2.2" exactly or 55.88mm this means undersize bearings can probably be found if you wanted to add a bit of stroke to the motor. this is probably pointless though since i beleive a 1GR crank would fit and take you from 84mm stroke to 95mm stroke (and bring the rod ratio down to 1.55:1)
Transverse Length - 2GRFE + E153 trans end to end length = 36.5" + 3/4" added length from the water bump pulley bolt.
Transverse Engine Width - 26" at the widest point
07-05-2016, 03:06 AM
#71
Let me know your honest opinion!!!
Hi my name is Alex but i go by Retroboymedia I'm ALL NEW to this. i shoot videos and photograph as a hobby my plans are to start a cinematography Company. But first I need to get myself known and show off my work. I own a Scion XA which I slowly have customize to my taste. And i love it. 
and see my work I am open for suggestions let me know what you think and don't forget to like and common Thank you!!
(1st Channel)
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCH5...mv1AOc_J8oR7ZQ
(My instagram)
https://www.instagram.com/retroboymedia/
and see my work I am open for suggestions let me know what you think and don't forget to like and common Thank you!! (1st Channel)
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCH5...mv1AOc_J8oR7ZQ
(My instagram)
https://www.instagram.com/retroboymedia/
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