Believe it or not a lot of vehicle manufacturers recommend the lighter weight oil because of the mileage increase. However small it might be, the lighter oil weight gives a vehicle better mileage, sometimes its just enough to put a car into EPA regulation. Personally, I never liked the idea of running anything but 5-30 in a 4 cyl (an in Florida it doesn't get near cold enough to NEED a 0-20), but I guess since 0-20 and 5-20 is what the engine was built around thats what I stick to.

Whatever weight you use though you should always make sure that the viscosity index numbers are always close. Just means that they use less viscosity index enhancers so there isn't as much to break down and form sludge.

 

True synthetic motor oils have much more stable viscosity, especially over longer OCIs. I say "true" synthetic because class III synthetics (most synthetic brands) are only allowed to be called synthetic in the United States. The synthetics I am talking about are class IV and class V (PAO and ester-based).

The viscosity of true synthetics is much more stable at high and low temperatures. There is a lot less evaporation compared to non-synthetics and synthetic blends. I have yet to add any oil over 10,000 mile OCIs in my xD. Same with my Sprinter van, and the OCI is up to 20,000 miles on its engine. Less sludge formation and oxidation with true synthetics as well.

Of course, there is the cost... but $11/qt for a 10,000 mile (or longer) interval doesn't seem bad to me.

 

I did finally get a chance to break out the manual, and you were right mcbrew. 0w-20, and 5w-20 are the only recommended weights of oil.

Also, I agree with DeathMachine that the main reason they recommend these oils is because of the slight fuel economy gain they provide.

I still don't think that it will in any way damage my engine to run the 5w-30 even if it is for 15,000 miles or so (that is what I expect to be at before I change it.) and I haven't noticed any change in the mileage while I've been running it.
I changed the filter and topped off the oil at 10,000 miles, and the sample that I sent in showed no greater than average wear even after 9,800 miles on the same oil and filter.
If the sample that I sent out at 12,000 miles comes back with any problems I'll change the oil immeadiatly, and only run the recommended oils from here on out.

Like I said before though, the only real reason I'm running it anyway is because I had it sitting on my shelf in the garage, and I wanted to use it to get it out of the way.

 

Yeah, I'm sure one of the main reasons for the low viscosity oil is fuel economy. It seems like a lot of economy cars are calling for 0w20 or 5w20 these days. Very different from what I am used to... mainly 5w40 or 15w40 oil for diesel engines.

The xD is my first car with a gasoline engine... so it's all new to me.

Okay, I did own a gasoline Chevy van at one point, but I replaced it with a diesel van. I also owned a Bertone X1/9, but that was for off-road fun. Never even had that car registered. The xD is certainly the first gasoline vehicle I have owned that didn't have a carburetor.

 

Got my report back... everything looks good with 10,000 miles on the oil (28,500 miles on the xD).

 

Well, I am interested in doing the oil changes of my vehicle by myself. Even though I pretty much know the principles, I would like to know where the oil drain plug is, and as far as I know, this car does not use a filter, only a catridge, am I correct? Anyway, I am looking forward for more information along with tips and pointers that would help me out accomplish this goal. I would appreciate any information.

 

Looks good. Did you leave the oil in or drain it?

 

I drained it. I may go 12,000 miles nest time, though.

The drain plug is the same as any other car... lowest point on the oil pan. It takes a 14mm socket or wrench.

There is an oil filter, and it is the cartridge style. In other words, the filter is not inside of a screw-on canister, but rather goes inside of a housing on the engine. The oil filter is right beside the drain plug. There's a black cap that unscrews to reveal the filter. You might want to pick up a 14-sided 64mm oil filter wrench for it. Search for TOY640 and you'll find it or around $15. The 65mm ones that you typically find at auto parts stores don't fit. The strap-style filter wrenches don't work well, either. The cap is plastic, so you shouldn't use a pipe wrench on it.

Just make sure you have the oil (about 4.5 quarts of 0w20 or 5w20), filter (which should include the filter housing o-ring), drain plug gasket, and the proper tools.

 

Got my 12,000 mile sample back today. It looks a little different because of the make-up oil I added after the filter change and previous samples. My next sample will be at 15,000 miles on the oil, but that will still be a few weeks away.

 

Looks good. I might start changing out the filter part way through (5,000 miles or so) like you have been doing. I'm used to diesels that have much larger oil filters... it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to give it a fresh one, as well as the fresh make-up oil.

 

I've gone to changing the filter at about 10,000 miles. It seems that it is making it that far just fine. Not sure after that though? Looking back on my past reports it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I'm sure it would make a difference at some point, but not sure when that is.

 

i had the hardest time trying to remove the oil filter cap. so i gave up, i used almost every method i can think of to try to remove it would not come out... i guess next time i change my oil i have to go to the dealership

 

Got this letter in the mail today along with a revised maintenance schedule book. I'm still planning on doing my first oil change at 5,000 though just to get rid of all the break-in contaminants.

 

Just bought my xD on the 5th of this month. Wonder if I'll be receiving this letter also.

 

I took delivery of my car back at the end of October of last year. Check the purple maintenance schedule book that came with your car. Yours might be the updated version that has 10,000mi/1 yr for oil changes.

 

Nope, mine still says every 5k miles

 

Had the same problem. Went and bought an Assenmacher TOY640 filter wrench on line as recommended by McBrew. Well worth the $15.

 

OK. First thing, get a GOOD oil filter body wrench.
I ordered mine through Amazon. I don't like running around town and in and out of stores.
Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY640 Toyota Oil Filter Wrench
The supplier is ToolTopia. Total cost was $22.68.
It was delivered to my door in less than 72 hours.
It is made of cast aluminum and made the job very easy.
I suppose you could use a crescent wrench to turn it but I used a 15/16 12 point socket.
If you buy the filter element kit from Toyota all the directions are on the box.
The filter location is right next to the front-right wheel.
The torque spec for the filter body is embossed on the body.
Mine was 25 Nm which translates to 18.5 lb/ft.
I also installed a compression washer with the drain plug.
BTW, I have been using synthetic oils exclusively for many years. That's why I replace my own oil. As the vehicle ages it makes a big difference. I have run a series of vehicles will over 120,000 miles in urban Minnesota driving conditions with no engine problems of any kind.
If you go to a "rapid oil change" facility I would make sure they know what they are doing. I don't trust those places after a few incidents I experienced. Go to a professional.

 

I finally got the report from my last sample with 15,000 miles on the oil. I changed the oil when I hit 17,000 miles on friday because I didn't have the report back yet. I pulled another sample though while I was doing the oil change, so we'll see how the oil did after 17,000 miles when that report comes back.

 

Got the report back for my oil with 17,000 miles on it.
For anyone who still cares I'm posting it.
This will be the last one for a while though since I changed the oil when I took this sample.