AEM F/IC Setup
Temperature change can affect your tune, but in close-loop mode, your stock ECU should still try to make corrections to get a stoich (14.7) mixture.
You're on the F/IC I suppose since you're replying to this thread.. do you know what firmwares you're running?
You're on the F/IC I suppose since you're replying to this thread.. do you know what firmwares you're running?
Originally Posted by B_Real45
Hey guys, I have something to add with the F/IC setup. I've been playing around with the software lately, and this is what I've discovered...
Our stock injectors are flow-tested to be about 320cc (Thanks Paul) and when calculating your new injectors, you should be using this formula: 1-(320/xxx) with xxx being your new injector size. The output is what you should be using as your fuel trim.
So for example: My new injectors are 625cc, so doing the calculation 1-(320/625) should equal 48.8. This means at idle I should have a -48.8 fuel trim to get roughly the stock idle. When I got this number, I thought to myself "wow, this seems like it's taking out an awful lot of fuel.." because every other map I've seen from others on this board, I see roughly in the 30's for fuel trim. Well I put the numbers in, with an otherwise blank map (so everything should be factory) and the car started but died! After some research, I realized the injector response time is the culprit.
In almost every map I've seen from others here on the board, most people have 486us as the response time.. that is converted to .486ms. This means the F/IC is giving the injector signal .486ms lag time to factor into the injector's pulsewidth. That just seemed a bit too short, considering our injector pulsewidth at idle should be 1.9ms to 3.37ms (Scion FSM). So I tried 1000us or 1ms in the Setup of the F/IC and started her up again, leaving my fuel trims at -48.. and now the car is sitting idling just fine! I waited until the car was completely warm and then hooked up my OBD-II scanner and selected to only see my ST and LT fuel trims. Low and behold, they're almost at 0... well the short term (ST) is at least. My LT now is about 7, but I think that's because I haven't finished the rest of the rpms. I guess more on that later.
I hope this helps some of you.. Oh, and there's no need to enter any values in the O2 map under 14.7psia since the car is in closed loop and not under any boost. I noticed that most people's map have 3.2 or 3.1 to get around 14.5 AFR... no need for that. Only use the O2 map when you're in boost and want to control part throttle AFR.
Our stock injectors are flow-tested to be about 320cc (Thanks Paul) and when calculating your new injectors, you should be using this formula: 1-(320/xxx) with xxx being your new injector size. The output is what you should be using as your fuel trim.
So for example: My new injectors are 625cc, so doing the calculation 1-(320/625) should equal 48.8. This means at idle I should have a -48.8 fuel trim to get roughly the stock idle. When I got this number, I thought to myself "wow, this seems like it's taking out an awful lot of fuel.." because every other map I've seen from others on this board, I see roughly in the 30's for fuel trim. Well I put the numbers in, with an otherwise blank map (so everything should be factory) and the car started but died! After some research, I realized the injector response time is the culprit.
In almost every map I've seen from others here on the board, most people have 486us as the response time.. that is converted to .486ms. This means the F/IC is giving the injector signal .486ms lag time to factor into the injector's pulsewidth. That just seemed a bit too short, considering our injector pulsewidth at idle should be 1.9ms to 3.37ms (Scion FSM). So I tried 1000us or 1ms in the Setup of the F/IC and started her up again, leaving my fuel trims at -48.. and now the car is sitting idling just fine! I waited until the car was completely warm and then hooked up my OBD-II scanner and selected to only see my ST and LT fuel trims. Low and behold, they're almost at 0... well the short term (ST) is at least. My LT now is about 7, but I think that's because I haven't finished the rest of the rpms. I guess more on that later.
I hope this helps some of you.. Oh, and there's no need to enter any values in the O2 map under 14.7psia since the car is in closed loop and not under any boost. I noticed that most people's map have 3.2 or 3.1 to get around 14.5 AFR... no need for that. Only use the O2 map when you're in boost and want to control part throttle AFR.
The problem I had running a higher response time was higher fuel trims on the fi/c while in boost. When I was running 5 psi with 550cc injectors I was adding up 74% fuel and found I was running out of fuel for only 7psi because I was adding 99% fuel with 550cc injectors.
hey, i have the aem fic installed with the pnp harness. and didn't do anything with the computer or software and tried starting it up. it seems like it idles and runs fine. does that mean the base map is already installed? i tried uploading the basecal6 thing and said it transfered to the fic. seems like its running exactly the same as before. am i good with the base map?
nope i got 550cc injectors. got the dezod s1 kit. they said it comes with a base map so i was thinking you just plug in the AEM on the car and thats it. lol wanna make sure im doing this right and have the basae map uploaded before my dyno tune
Whatever came on the F/IC is your basemap. You should have downloaded that to your computer first.
But if you're running fine right now, I suggest you drive to your tuner and get it professionally tuned.
But if you're running fine right now, I suggest you drive to your tuner and get it professionally tuned.
arite well i WILL be getting it tuned soon. but the only thing is im a delivery boy LOL and it kinda sux cuz its the only job i have right now and since im turboed. it makes it even harder but i only work like a couple days a week. just wanted to make sure cuz i needa work this weekend :T
Update
Well I did a bit of tuning this past weekend with a friend of mine. He was driving as I fiddled on the laptop with the F/IC software.
My car ends up idling nicer at just under 1000ms for injector response timing. Remember this will be different for each make of injector so my figure may or may not work for you. I have Siemens 630cc injectors and their advertised injector response time is 1.14ms at 14V. After a number of pulls, I finally got my car to about 12-11.5 AFR during WOT at 10psi. At partial throttle it's around 12-12.5 AFR. The car feels great so far. I didn't really mess with the timing map. The map I have in there now is just a linear decrease in timing up to -4 degrees at 10psi, regardless of rpm.
One thing I've noticed was that the car needed much more fuel between 3200 to 4600rpm. I'm guessing this is because that's where our main part of our torque curve is.. did anyone else notice the same in their fuel maps?
Well I did a bit of tuning this past weekend with a friend of mine. He was driving as I fiddled on the laptop with the F/IC software.
My car ends up idling nicer at just under 1000ms for injector response timing. Remember this will be different for each make of injector so my figure may or may not work for you. I have Siemens 630cc injectors and their advertised injector response time is 1.14ms at 14V. After a number of pulls, I finally got my car to about 12-11.5 AFR during WOT at 10psi. At partial throttle it's around 12-12.5 AFR. The car feels great so far. I didn't really mess with the timing map. The map I have in there now is just a linear decrease in timing up to -4 degrees at 10psi, regardless of rpm.
One thing I've noticed was that the car needed much more fuel between 3200 to 4600rpm. I'm guessing this is because that's where our main part of our torque curve is.. did anyone else notice the same in their fuel maps?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,271
From: Houston, TX
thought id throw some more info out there for ya guys...
1. just a warning to those out there to not use a pointed object (ie safety pin, needle, thumb tac) into the back of the fic to hit the flash button...this is what happens




maynot be able to tell but the button is chewed up and stuck depressed...when this happens the fic will not function...it took me about thirty min to pry it loose...(this fic was sent to me from another member here on sl to try and figure out what was wrong with it)
2. while haveing this fic open i noticed just how loose the hose is thats running to the map sensor, so i went ahead and used some zip ties to tighten them up...idk if it would be a problem at low boost up to 8psi but im pretty sure the higher you go (pressure wise) you may not be reading correct pressure on your datalogs nore will the maps be working correctly.


1. just a warning to those out there to not use a pointed object (ie safety pin, needle, thumb tac) into the back of the fic to hit the flash button...this is what happens




maynot be able to tell but the button is chewed up and stuck depressed...when this happens the fic will not function...it took me about thirty min to pry it loose...(this fic was sent to me from another member here on sl to try and figure out what was wrong with it)
2. while haveing this fic open i noticed just how loose the hose is thats running to the map sensor, so i went ahead and used some zip ties to tighten them up...idk if it would be a problem at low boost up to 8psi but im pretty sure the higher you go (pressure wise) you may not be reading correct pressure on your datalogs nore will the maps be working correctly.


Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,271
From: Houston, TX
like i said it was sent to me from another sl memeber who couldnt get the fic to operate at all...the fic was stuck in flash mode when the button was stuck. the car wouldnt even start so its not because of the hose...and like i said the hose seemed loose to me, it pulled apart fairly easy.







