Notices
Scion tC 1G Forced Induction Turbo and supercharger applications...

Another Competition Clutch Fail

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 11, 2009 | 08:48 PM
  #101  
Ace83's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Ronin Scion
SL Member
Premium Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 11,117
From: TX
Default

yeah act seems like a good option right now... anybody heard of exedy stage 2?

oh I think i remembered some issues with act clutches like 2 years ago, then ACT became not so popular in SL.. then it its back again.. i guess with better clutches this time
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 03:22 AM
  #102  
Carlanga's Avatar
Senior Member

10 Year Member
5 Year Member

Scikotics
SL Member
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,129
From: Houston, TX (Puerto Rico)
Default

Ace, what happened with ACT in the past? I wasn't in the market for a clutch back then so, I don't know. I'm not one to call something good just cuz I use it, I rather tell it like it is and save the hassle to the next guy.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 01:18 PM
  #103  
Ace83's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Ronin Scion
SL Member
Premium Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 11,117
From: TX
Default

i cant remember what exactly was the problem, but i remember there was an issue that made me take clutchmasters over ACT..
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 03:19 PM
  #104  
scikotictc232's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,020
From: Tri Cities Washington
Default

whats a good affordable clutch you guys recomend ?
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 03:24 PM
  #105  
B_Real45's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,603
From: South Florida
Default

Clutchmasters or ACT.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 07:33 PM
  #106  
TCpete's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13,373
From: WORLD WIDE Flossin
Default

actually.. ROB.. u should call MrC... and listen to his recomendations.. PM me why im telling u this
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:07 PM
  #107  
DezodDon's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 782
From: Buffalo, NY
Default

Originally Posted by Carlanga
alright guys, this is my clutch. First of all, I baby the cr@p out of my car. I have seen soo many drive axle stories (including Ace), that shaving a tenth off of the 1/4 wasn't even worth it for me. To be more specific about mileage, it had about 6450 miles on it. The clutch started acting funny the during the first month after install. While engaging the clutch at low rpm in first, second and reverse, the drive train would start to shake up a bit. For example; whenever I was going in reverse, normally I don't let the clutch out completely if I'm just moving a couple of feet. The idea it to feather it just a bit to get it moving and that's when it would act weird, almost as if it would grab, lose, grab, lose, and so on, it was kinda weird.

Last week the car started to make some noise at idle, I though it was the throw-out bearing and tried to lube it up a bit with grease. It did go away for about a day and then it came back. Lube it again and went to work, after I got out of work not even 5 miles into my trip back home I couldn't get the car to shift into any gear. At this point I'm like, WTH is going on? Finally got the car to shift and drove it in second gear to the nearest auto parts to get some lithium grease. Sprayed that puppy up and it worked again, at this point I didn't even know what to think.

That afternoon I drove the car to several places, on the last one the car gave up on me and had to drive about 6 miles of stop and go traffic in second gear (thank God I did the oil change that morning). That evening I tried lubing it again and drove around my neighborhood to see if it worked, luckily it did work. Problem was that every time I decelerated in any gear, once I pressed the clutch to change gear I would have some restriction on the pedal and it wouldn't shift. If I shifted while in acceleration, it would work. :O Yeah, really confused at this point. At this point the clutch is making a faint bearing noise, like something was loose.

Once Chris and I dropped the tranny, we found out that the throw-out bearing wasn't as bad as we though it would. It had some minimal play on it, which I don't even know if it is supposed to have at some after a couple thousand miles. I don't remember the stock one having any type of play. Once I unbolted the pressure plate one of the big spring fell on my damn face, and the little one was stock in between the clutch disk and the pressure plate. I guess that's the reason it wasn't going anywhere.

My question is: why did it work every time I sprayed the throw-out bearing with grease? Is it possible that I had both problems at the same time, just one worst than the other and it finally gave up?

What ya guys think?
You should never try to grease a throw out bearing with spray lithium. That is possibly the worst idea I have ever heard and could lead to early clutch failure from contamination from greases.

That said, the springs should not fall out of the disc. That is from shatter which is caused by the clutch not disengaging 100%. You said you felt this when in first/reverse and creeping. If the pedal was not adjusted when you replaced the clutch this would cause the clutch to not disengage properly and stay semi engaged. Also if you used too much grease on the input shaft splines this could also cause a chatter issue from contamination.

Chatter is the cause of this failure. The friction material was doing it's job it just seems like it wasn't fully disengaging.

Replace clutch, bleed hydraulic system, adjust pedal. These are steps every clutch job should entail especially if you are installing an aftermarket clutch with a stiffer pressure plate. The stock hydraulics of the TC and many other cars often times cannot handle the higher demands of aftermarket clutches without causing issues.

I personally like Exedy. That's it.

Also you should use the stock OEM throw out bearing, the CC one sucks and they will be including the OEM one with clutch sets from now on.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:10 PM
  #108  
B_Real45's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,603
From: South Florida
Default

Don,

Which method of pedal adjustment do you recommend? There's the modifying of the pedal or installing a longer push rod.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:22 PM
  #109  
DezodDon's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 782
From: Buffalo, NY
Default

Originally Posted by B_Real45
Don,

Which method of pedal adjustment do you recommend? There's the modifying of the pedal or installing a longer push rod.
Those are bandaids.

If you find yourself needing to install a longer push rod you must ask yourself what is causing this?

Mitsubishis used to run into this all the time as the clutch release fork would wear out on the pivot ball. The cure was to replace the fork and the ball if you were replacing clutches especially if you were installing an ACT clutch with a strong pressure plate (famous of ACT)

Examine the condition of the clutch fork and pivot ball on the spots where they contact. If there appears to be wear then you need might want to replace them before you put the transmission back on.

If there is wear, what happens is that instead of pivoting the fork on it's fulcrum the clutch slave cylinder must first extend and take up the slack from the wear then when the fork contacts the pivot it can pivot but by then the slave has extended a little too far to properly disengage the clutch. Thus why some people try to do the slave cylinder rods.

Either way adjusting the pedal should be done after every clutch job and the engagement should be half the way up off the floor. Not right off the floor like most scions rolling around, this leads to many problems and a poor driving experience.

If people follow this I think that most of the clutch issues we see on this board will disappear.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:25 PM
  #110  
TCpete's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13,373
From: WORLD WIDE Flossin
Default

Originally Posted by DezodDon
Also you should use the stock OEM throw out bearing, the CC one sucks and they will be including the OEM one with clutch sets from now on.
since when 4 days ago?? i thought they handled all their r&d already on the throw out bearing months ago after they figured out their first batches were garbage... what a shocker... because of that.. i now have to buy a new clutch fork and OEM TOB because my fried itself to death.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:29 PM
  #111  
crush02342002's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member

5 Year Member
SL Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,271
From: Houston, TX
Default

Originally Posted by DezodDon
You should never try to grease a throw out bearing with spray lithium. That is possibly the worst idea I have ever heard and could lead to early clutch failure from contamination from greases.

That said, the springs should not fall out of the disc. That is from shatter which is caused by the clutch not disengaging 100%. You said you felt this when in first/reverse and creeping. If the pedal was not adjusted when you replaced the clutch this would cause the clutch to not disengage properly and stay semi engaged. Also if you used too much grease on the input shaft splines this could also cause a chatter issue from contamination.

Chatter is the cause of this failure. The friction material was doing it's job it just seems like it wasn't fully disengaging.

Replace clutch, bleed hydraulic system, adjust pedal. These are steps every clutch job should entail especially if you are installing an aftermarket clutch with a stiffer pressure plate. The stock hydraulics of the TC and many other cars often times cannot handle the higher demands of aftermarket clutches without causing issues.

I personally like Exedy. That's it.

Also you should use the stock OEM throw out bearing, the CC one sucks and they will be including the OEM one with clutch sets from now on.
we didnt greas the TOB and used light greas on the input shaft as required. When i drove his car the peddle was about in the middle (idk if thats where it should be but it seemed good to me). the clutch pads looked pretty good imho, nothing out of the ordinary. the blueing of the flywheel i would assume would be due to the fact the spring poped out and got wedged in the pressure plate preventing him from being able to release the clutch...he had to drive home in second gear for a few miles. when we droped the tranny and clutch one of those springs fell out from between the pressure plate.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:30 PM
  #112  
crush02342002's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member

5 Year Member
SL Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,271
From: Houston, TX
Default

the reason he sprayed grease in it was the clutch wouldnt release at all so we assumed it was the tob was trashed already and he was just trying to get home....you do what you gotta do when you on the side of the road.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:31 PM
  #113  
TCpete's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13,373
From: WORLD WIDE Flossin
Default

Originally Posted by DezodDon
If people follow this I think that most of the clutch issues we see on this board will disappear.

and what about those of us who did follow the rules to the T and bled the clutch and did the correct adjustments... you can't blame install error all the time on people... ive blow 2 stag 4s in less then 1 year... both lasted me 1k miles before problems surfaced... and both failures were because 1. the disc being garbage, 2. the throw out bearing being garbage.. even after the supposed update was made....

you cant always blame the end user... the OManf. has to step and say ok we messed up we put out a garbage product TWICE and still couldnt get it right.

and this is not only with the scion community but honda and nissan also....
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:44 PM
  #114  
DezodDon's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 782
From: Buffalo, NY
Default

Originally Posted by TCpete
since when 4 days ago?? i thought they handled all their r&d already on the throw out bearing months ago after they figured out their first batches were garbage... what a shocker... because of that.. i now have to buy a new clutch fork and OEM TOB because my fried itself to death.
I am not sure when they are including the new throw out bearing. The last i knew they were still using the old design. Let me call my rep at CC.......

Just got off the phone with him. He states that they have been shipping them with the OEM throw out bearing for about 3 weeks or so.

JUst to clarify the wear issues exist even with a factory clutch. They are in essence a wear item. The problem shows itself when a heavier clutch is installed. The stock pressure plate is weak and takes only the designed amount of force to move it. The heavier ones require more and if there are any weak points in the system now is when they will be exposed.

THIS PROBLEM IS DUE TO NORMAL WEAR. If it is occurring at all on the Scions. This is just a theory at this point and not confirmed but again alot of other cars experience this same problem.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:45 PM
  #115  
DezodDon's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 782
From: Buffalo, NY
Default

Originally Posted by TCpete
and what about those of us who did follow the rules to the T and bled the clutch and did the correct adjustments... you can't blame install error all the time on people... ive blow 2 stag 4s in less then 1 year... both lasted me 1k miles before problems surfaced... and both failures were because 1. the disc being garbage, 2. the throw out bearing being garbage.. even after the supposed update was made....

you cant always blame the end user... the OManf. has to step and say ok we messed up we put out a garbage product TWICE and still couldnt get it right.

and this is not only with the scion community but honda and nissan also....
I was in no way blaming you or anyone. If you re-read my original post I said I prefer Exedy ;)

Originally Posted by crush02342002
the reason he sprayed grease in it was the clutch wouldnt release at all so we assumed it was the tob was trashed already and he was just trying to get home....you do what you gotta do when you on the side of the road.
Agreed and understandable. I was more or less saying that things like this can cause issues. Also the blueing would be from heat and if he was seeing heat like that and still has pad life left I'm going to go with clutch chattering.

You guys gotta realize that I am on this board to help people not argue Simma down na!

Last edited by DezodDon; Oct 12, 2009 at 08:51 PM.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:52 PM
  #116  
TCpete's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13,373
From: WORLD WIDE Flossin
Default

Originally Posted by DezodDon
I am not sure when they are including the new throw out bearing. The last i knew they were still using the old design. Let me call my rep at CC.......

Just got off the phone with him. He states that they have been shipping them with the OEM throw out bearing for about 3 weeks or so.

JUst to clarify the wear issues exist even with a factory clutch. They are in essence a wear item. The problem shows itself when a heavier clutch is installed. The stock pressure plate is weak and takes only the designed amount of force to move it. The heavier ones require more and if there are any weak points in the system now is when they will be exposed.

THIS PROBLEM IS DUE TO NORMAL WEAR. If it is occurring at all on the Scions. This is just a theory at this point and not confirmed but again alot of other cars experience this same problem.
see now i smell some nice dookie here... i was told CC made revisions from their old clutch (9 months ago)... revisions which included a new revised TOB. this would mean that the second clutch i got (directly from CC) should have had the "new designed" bearing... but your saying they still used the old ones?? ok so which one is it then... lets start choosing words correctly here because right now im SOL on my 2nd CC clutch because of this either "new" or "old" TOB issue.... and now only 1 week after sending mines (from the 3 week margin your giving) give or take also from the grace period they had before of the revamption (8months ago roughly) they decided to switch now to an OEM NOW??
why not go str8 to the OEM... where did r&d fall off here AGAIN? did they not deal with dyken (sp) anymore? whose doing all this r&d ... the end user is basically the one getting screwed and the shops are keeping hush hush about this or getting their facts mixed up....

lets start getting some accurate detail because theres alot of conflict here and frankly im pretty sick of the bs
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:53 PM
  #117  
crush02342002's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member

5 Year Member
SL Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,271
From: Houston, TX
Default

the tob on ours seemed fine...it had a little play in it but not alot.

we noticed the cc tob, act tob look exactly the same...the oem tob has the same markings as both the cc and act however the tob body is a bit thicker...idk how to explain it better...Carlos went ahead and used the new oem tob just incase.

one question for ya Don...my clutch is stock (never made any adjustments peddle wise), it seems that my clutch doesnt engage untill your almost fully off the clutch peddle...its pretty high up. should i adjust it lower? seems like i should, idk how it got that way. never really payed any attention to it before till sometimes it feels like my clutch is skipping. feels like its catching and then letting go. I also assume my clutch plate is trashed. I suspect the rubber "wanna be springs" are either gone or hurting real bad.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:54 PM
  #118  
crush02342002's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member

5 Year Member
SL Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,271
From: Houston, TX
Default

Its cool Don...im just trying to pump you for more info....lmao (that didnt quit sound right....NO HOMO)
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:57 PM
  #119  
TCpete's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13,373
From: WORLD WIDE Flossin
Default

Originally Posted by DezodDon
I was in no way blaming you or anyone. If you re-read my original post I said I prefer Exedy ;)



Agreed and understandable. I was more or less saying that things like this can cause issues. Also the blueing would be from heat and if he was seeing heat like that and still has pad life left I'm going to go with clutch chattering.

You guys gotta realize that I am on this board to help people not argue Simma down na!
im not saying your blaming us... but your asuming install error.. granted that might happen in isolated cases.. but crap man you got a large group of people lately coming forward with issues... and i cant see how everyone had the same dam mechanic floating around the US installing comp clutches...

its starting to sound more of a root source then end source issue frankly...which sucks because anyone in the middle (ei: dealers) are going to get hurt the most
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 09:06 PM
  #120  
TCpete's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13,373
From: WORLD WIDE Flossin
Default

i see some of us are waiting for google =)



All times are GMT. The time now is 04:10 PM.