Another Competition Clutch Fail
yeah act seems like a good option right now... anybody heard of exedy stage 2?
oh I think i remembered some issues with act clutches like 2 years ago, then ACT became not so popular in SL.. then it its back again.. i guess with better clutches this time
oh I think i remembered some issues with act clutches like 2 years ago, then ACT became not so popular in SL.. then it its back again.. i guess with better clutches this time
Ace, what happened with ACT in the past? I wasn't in the market for a clutch back then so, I don't know. I'm not one to call something good just cuz I use it, I rather tell it like it is and save the hassle to the next guy.
alright guys, this is my clutch. First of all, I baby the cr@p out of my car. I have seen soo many drive axle stories (including Ace), that shaving a tenth off of the 1/4 wasn't even worth it for me. To be more specific about mileage, it had about 6450 miles on it. The clutch started acting funny the during the first month after install. While engaging the clutch at low rpm in first, second and reverse, the drive train would start to shake up a bit. For example; whenever I was going in reverse, normally I don't let the clutch out completely if I'm just moving a couple of feet. The idea it to feather it just a bit to get it moving and that's when it would act weird, almost as if it would grab, lose, grab, lose, and so on, it was kinda weird.
Last week the car started to make some noise at idle, I though it was the throw-out bearing and tried to lube it up a bit with grease. It did go away for about a day and then it came back. Lube it again and went to work, after I got out of work not even 5 miles into my trip back home I couldn't get the car to shift into any gear. At this point I'm like, WTH is going on? Finally got the car to shift and drove it in second gear to the nearest auto parts to get some lithium grease. Sprayed that puppy up and it worked again, at this point I didn't even know what to think.
That afternoon I drove the car to several places, on the last one the car gave up on me and had to drive about 6 miles of stop and go traffic in second gear (thank God I did the oil change that morning). That evening I tried lubing it again and drove around my neighborhood to see if it worked, luckily it did work. Problem was that every time I decelerated in any gear, once I pressed the clutch to change gear I would have some restriction on the pedal and it wouldn't shift. If I shifted while in acceleration, it would work. :O Yeah, really confused at this point. At this point the clutch is making a faint bearing noise, like something was loose.
Once Chris and I dropped the tranny, we found out that the throw-out bearing wasn't as bad as we though it would. It had some minimal play on it, which I don't even know if it is supposed to have at some after a couple thousand miles. I don't remember the stock one having any type of play. Once I unbolted the pressure plate one of the big spring fell on my damn face, and the little one was stock in between the clutch disk and the pressure plate. I guess that's the reason it wasn't going anywhere.
My question is: why did it work every time I sprayed the throw-out bearing with grease? Is it possible that I had both problems at the same time, just one worst than the other and it finally gave up?
What ya guys think?
Last week the car started to make some noise at idle, I though it was the throw-out bearing and tried to lube it up a bit with grease. It did go away for about a day and then it came back. Lube it again and went to work, after I got out of work not even 5 miles into my trip back home I couldn't get the car to shift into any gear. At this point I'm like, WTH is going on? Finally got the car to shift and drove it in second gear to the nearest auto parts to get some lithium grease. Sprayed that puppy up and it worked again, at this point I didn't even know what to think.
That afternoon I drove the car to several places, on the last one the car gave up on me and had to drive about 6 miles of stop and go traffic in second gear (thank God I did the oil change that morning). That evening I tried lubing it again and drove around my neighborhood to see if it worked, luckily it did work. Problem was that every time I decelerated in any gear, once I pressed the clutch to change gear I would have some restriction on the pedal and it wouldn't shift. If I shifted while in acceleration, it would work. :O Yeah, really confused at this point. At this point the clutch is making a faint bearing noise, like something was loose.
Once Chris and I dropped the tranny, we found out that the throw-out bearing wasn't as bad as we though it would. It had some minimal play on it, which I don't even know if it is supposed to have at some after a couple thousand miles. I don't remember the stock one having any type of play. Once I unbolted the pressure plate one of the big spring fell on my damn face, and the little one was stock in between the clutch disk and the pressure plate. I guess that's the reason it wasn't going anywhere.
My question is: why did it work every time I sprayed the throw-out bearing with grease? Is it possible that I had both problems at the same time, just one worst than the other and it finally gave up?
What ya guys think?
That said, the springs should not fall out of the disc. That is from shatter which is caused by the clutch not disengaging 100%. You said you felt this when in first/reverse and creeping. If the pedal was not adjusted when you replaced the clutch this would cause the clutch to not disengage properly and stay semi engaged. Also if you used too much grease on the input shaft splines this could also cause a chatter issue from contamination.
Chatter is the cause of this failure. The friction material was doing it's job it just seems like it wasn't fully disengaging.
Replace clutch, bleed hydraulic system, adjust pedal. These are steps every clutch job should entail especially if you are installing an aftermarket clutch with a stiffer pressure plate. The stock hydraulics of the TC and many other cars often times cannot handle the higher demands of aftermarket clutches without causing issues.
I personally like Exedy. That's it.
Also you should use the stock OEM throw out bearing, the CC one sucks and they will be including the OEM one with clutch sets from now on.
If you find yourself needing to install a longer push rod you must ask yourself what is causing this?
Mitsubishis used to run into this all the time as the clutch release fork would wear out on the pivot ball. The cure was to replace the fork and the ball if you were replacing clutches especially if you were installing an ACT clutch with a strong pressure plate (famous of ACT)
Examine the condition of the clutch fork and pivot ball on the spots where they contact. If there appears to be wear then you need might want to replace them before you put the transmission back on.
If there is wear, what happens is that instead of pivoting the fork on it's fulcrum the clutch slave cylinder must first extend and take up the slack from the wear then when the fork contacts the pivot it can pivot but by then the slave has extended a little too far to properly disengage the clutch. Thus why some people try to do the slave cylinder rods.
Either way adjusting the pedal should be done after every clutch job and the engagement should be half the way up off the floor. Not right off the floor like most scions rolling around, this leads to many problems and a poor driving experience.
If people follow this I think that most of the clutch issues we see on this board will disappear.
since when 4 days ago?? i thought they handled all their r&d already on the throw out bearing months ago after they figured out their first batches were garbage... what a shocker... because of that.. i now have to buy a new clutch fork and OEM TOB because my fried itself to death.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,271
From: Houston, TX
You should never try to grease a throw out bearing with spray lithium. That is possibly the worst idea I have ever heard and could lead to early clutch failure from contamination from greases.
That said, the springs should not fall out of the disc. That is from shatter which is caused by the clutch not disengaging 100%. You said you felt this when in first/reverse and creeping. If the pedal was not adjusted when you replaced the clutch this would cause the clutch to not disengage properly and stay semi engaged. Also if you used too much grease on the input shaft splines this could also cause a chatter issue from contamination.
Chatter is the cause of this failure. The friction material was doing it's job it just seems like it wasn't fully disengaging.
Replace clutch, bleed hydraulic system, adjust pedal. These are steps every clutch job should entail especially if you are installing an aftermarket clutch with a stiffer pressure plate. The stock hydraulics of the TC and many other cars often times cannot handle the higher demands of aftermarket clutches without causing issues.
I personally like Exedy. That's it.
Also you should use the stock OEM throw out bearing, the CC one sucks and they will be including the OEM one with clutch sets from now on.
That said, the springs should not fall out of the disc. That is from shatter which is caused by the clutch not disengaging 100%. You said you felt this when in first/reverse and creeping. If the pedal was not adjusted when you replaced the clutch this would cause the clutch to not disengage properly and stay semi engaged. Also if you used too much grease on the input shaft splines this could also cause a chatter issue from contamination.
Chatter is the cause of this failure. The friction material was doing it's job it just seems like it wasn't fully disengaging.
Replace clutch, bleed hydraulic system, adjust pedal. These are steps every clutch job should entail especially if you are installing an aftermarket clutch with a stiffer pressure plate. The stock hydraulics of the TC and many other cars often times cannot handle the higher demands of aftermarket clutches without causing issues.
I personally like Exedy. That's it.
Also you should use the stock OEM throw out bearing, the CC one sucks and they will be including the OEM one with clutch sets from now on.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,271
From: Houston, TX
the reason he sprayed grease in it was the clutch wouldnt release at all so we assumed it was the tob was trashed already and he was just trying to get home....you do what you gotta do when you on the side of the road.
and what about those of us who did follow the rules to the T and bled the clutch and did the correct adjustments... you can't blame install error all the time on people... ive blow 2 stag 4s in less then 1 year... both lasted me 1k miles before problems surfaced... and both failures were because 1. the disc being garbage, 2. the throw out bearing being garbage.. even after the supposed update was made....
you cant always blame the end user... the OManf. has to step and say ok we messed up we put out a garbage product TWICE and still couldnt get it right.
and this is not only with the scion community but honda and nissan also....
since when 4 days ago?? i thought they handled all their r&d already on the throw out bearing months ago after they figured out their first batches were garbage... what a shocker... because of that.. i now have to buy a new clutch fork and OEM TOB because my fried itself to death.
Just got off the phone with him. He states that they have been shipping them with the OEM throw out bearing for about 3 weeks or so.
JUst to clarify the wear issues exist even with a factory clutch. They are in essence a wear item. The problem shows itself when a heavier clutch is installed. The stock pressure plate is weak and takes only the designed amount of force to move it. The heavier ones require more and if there are any weak points in the system now is when they will be exposed.
THIS PROBLEM IS DUE TO NORMAL WEAR. If it is occurring at all on the Scions. This is just a theory at this point and not confirmed but again alot of other cars experience this same problem.
and what about those of us who did follow the rules to the T and bled the clutch and did the correct adjustments... you can't blame install error all the time on people... ive blow 2 stag 4s in less then 1 year... both lasted me 1k miles before problems surfaced... and both failures were because 1. the disc being garbage, 2. the throw out bearing being garbage.. even after the supposed update was made....
you cant always blame the end user... the OManf. has to step and say ok we messed up we put out a garbage product TWICE and still couldnt get it right.
and this is not only with the scion community but honda and nissan also....
you cant always blame the end user... the OManf. has to step and say ok we messed up we put out a garbage product TWICE and still couldnt get it right.
and this is not only with the scion community but honda and nissan also....
You guys gotta realize that I am on this board to help people not argue
Last edited by DezodDon; Oct 12, 2009 at 08:51 PM.
I am not sure when they are including the new throw out bearing. The last i knew they were still using the old design. Let me call my rep at CC.......
Just got off the phone with him. He states that they have been shipping them with the OEM throw out bearing for about 3 weeks or so.
JUst to clarify the wear issues exist even with a factory clutch. They are in essence a wear item. The problem shows itself when a heavier clutch is installed. The stock pressure plate is weak and takes only the designed amount of force to move it. The heavier ones require more and if there are any weak points in the system now is when they will be exposed.
THIS PROBLEM IS DUE TO NORMAL WEAR. If it is occurring at all on the Scions. This is just a theory at this point and not confirmed but again alot of other cars experience this same problem.
Just got off the phone with him. He states that they have been shipping them with the OEM throw out bearing for about 3 weeks or so.
JUst to clarify the wear issues exist even with a factory clutch. They are in essence a wear item. The problem shows itself when a heavier clutch is installed. The stock pressure plate is weak and takes only the designed amount of force to move it. The heavier ones require more and if there are any weak points in the system now is when they will be exposed.
THIS PROBLEM IS DUE TO NORMAL WEAR. If it is occurring at all on the Scions. This is just a theory at this point and not confirmed but again alot of other cars experience this same problem.
why not go str8 to the OEM... where did r&d fall off here AGAIN? did they not deal with dyken (sp) anymore? whose doing all this r&d ... the end user is basically the one getting screwed and the shops are keeping hush hush about this or getting their facts mixed up....
lets start getting some accurate detail because theres alot of conflict here and frankly im pretty sick of the bs
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,271
From: Houston, TX
the tob on ours seemed fine...it had a little play in it but not alot.
we noticed the cc tob, act tob look exactly the same...the oem tob has the same markings as both the cc and act however the tob body is a bit thicker...idk how to explain it better...Carlos went ahead and used the new oem tob just incase.
one question for ya Don...my clutch is stock (never made any adjustments peddle wise), it seems that my clutch doesnt engage untill your almost fully off the clutch peddle...its pretty high up. should i adjust it lower? seems like i should, idk how it got that way. never really payed any attention to it before till sometimes it feels like my clutch is skipping. feels like its catching and then letting go. I also assume my clutch plate is trashed. I suspect the rubber "wanna be springs" are either gone or hurting real bad.
we noticed the cc tob, act tob look exactly the same...the oem tob has the same markings as both the cc and act however the tob body is a bit thicker...idk how to explain it better...Carlos went ahead and used the new oem tob just incase.
one question for ya Don...my clutch is stock (never made any adjustments peddle wise), it seems that my clutch doesnt engage untill your almost fully off the clutch peddle...its pretty high up. should i adjust it lower? seems like i should, idk how it got that way. never really payed any attention to it before till sometimes it feels like my clutch is skipping. feels like its catching and then letting go. I also assume my clutch plate is trashed. I suspect the rubber "wanna be springs" are either gone or hurting real bad.
I was in no way blaming you or anyone. If you re-read my original post I said I prefer Exedy ;)
Agreed and understandable. I was more or less saying that things like this can cause issues. Also the blueing would be from heat and if he was seeing heat like that and still has pad life left I'm going to go with clutch chattering.
You guys gotta realize that I am on this board to help people not argue
Simma down na!
Agreed and understandable. I was more or less saying that things like this can cause issues. Also the blueing would be from heat and if he was seeing heat like that and still has pad life left I'm going to go with clutch chattering.
You guys gotta realize that I am on this board to help people not argue
its starting to sound more of a root source then end source issue frankly...which sucks because anyone in the middle (ei: dealers) are going to get hurt the most







