^^ thats quite laggy! maybe you can try other antilag options too along with the cam tuning

 

hey guys, i need help wiring my air intake sensor from hydra..

here's what I got

luckily the sensor fits my O2 sensor bung so no problem mounting it


i need help with this


as i see it, those two lil metal thingy is where i loop the wire and insert into that harness.. but which wires on the maf sensor will i tap? does it have a positive/negative polarity?

 

As far as I know, you don't have to worry about the polarity.

 

I grounded it to the side of the cylnder head.

Positive taps into the blue wire that goes into the maf sensor.

I just completely cut off mine ^^

 

so it doesnt matter which side i hook the blue wire from the maf, which ever side i tap with the blue wire becomes the positive? thanks now im gonna look for an aluminum bung

 

np bro =)

 

^^ you should get the cheap ebay laptop, it works great

 

I'm buy some other stuff here and there.

I really should bid on another laptop again =D

 

I wonder what j3st3r's fuel pulse width is at idle.

Also, I wonder if he is running open or closed loop at idle =p

I've been reading the past few days, and talking to different people, and i'm getting mixed responses.

I've come to the conclusion that my 800cc injectors don't like a pw less than 1ms.

Either that, or I need to play around with the injector setting >.<

hmmmm.... someone chime in, lol.

 

Try to smooth things out in the surrounding cells and often times you may need to change the injector lag time settings. Also, some larger injectors prefer to idle a bit richer so use your target AF map and change the idle settings to 13.5 or 14:1 instead of the 14.7 or higher settings you have for the cruising parts of the map.

 

Thanks for chiming in Dan. You are the optimal person to talk to about my kit, lol.

I fixed the idle AFR somewhat the other day.

The car turns on fine like 90% of the time. Randomly it won't turn on, on the first try. But that usually only happens when the fuel tank is only about 1/4 or less.

After the car turns on. It idles fine for like a minute. Then it dies.

I'm guessing it dies after the poststart enrichment/cranking enrichment wear off.

I have the AutoTune rate set really high right now. Closed Loop from 500 to like 6000.

Left & Right Sources at WB target table.

I'll try setting it to target 14.0afr.

Also, according to the specs I found on my injectors. The lag time is 1.5 (i'm assuming milliseconds). Should I apply that somewhere in the hydra?

 

injector latency map
As for the dying out try bulking up the coolant temp trims a bit at the lower coolant temps (note what they are when you are starting the car). I often have to add a bit to those.

 

I zero'd out the the coolant/air temp trims.

I was hoping to get the base fuel map dialed in better, without those maps, and adding the values back in later.

Maybe I shouldn't have done that?

lol

 

^^ put is up at least on the start at first.. then do the rest later.. mine is a lil up and didnt have idling issues

 

Thats actually a good idea, lol.

Just leave the coolant/air temp trims in the lower temps, and do the upper later, lmao.

 

Maybe Dan can chime in and help me understand why the 2step doesn't work for our cars and whats needed to make it work?

 

Due to the way the clutch switches are setup on our cars you can't set up the 2 stop the way you would normally. You need an adapter harness. I took some power data and gave it to Phil at Element Tuning but he needed more data off a Tc to make the harness and of course I misplaced my voltage meter. Basically it is a sub harness that will plug into the Hydra Plug and Play harness and your clutch switch. Not too expensive. Ippskidder, you do not want to zero out our coolant trims at lower temps. Your car needs extra fuel during the warm up cycle. You should see how rich my stock EVO X runs when cold.

 

^^ that would be awesome once element tuning can make a harness for the 2 step, i thought putting a switch for a 2step is that easy..

 

What exactly is the 2 step? what is it for? lol

 

Just call me sergio

I'll put the coolant/air temp trim values back in. Today's my day off, so i'll see if I can play around with it some more today.

So from what i'm gathering is, the car will idle better while richer than 14.7 at least for my setup.

So start off rich about 13.5, then start leaning out little by little, until the car doesn't idle right.

Sounds like a plan.