Wow. Have you got any pics renton? I'd love to see them. Sounds like you've got a great start if you can work out the minor issues.

And I do love you Pat.

 

will try post them up after i take them...they are all done up..hehe..

 

Here's another update on my end of things... once again I've hit a roadblock. lol.. but, I'll get to that after the update.

I got the XB loaded up on the trailer and to the exhaust shop last weekend as I mentioned in the last update. Here's the pics:





My exhaust is a little bit closer on the right side (you can't really tell from this pic) but i'll adjust that as I fix the problem I'm getting to later in this post:









and here's a good shot of the correction on those pipes not fitting:



I tightened everything down and also install an Optima yellowtop that they said would never fit our cars. Granted, the 10 inch long battery wouldn't fit with the billet hold-down I had, but it did fit.

The problem I ran into has to do with the A/F sensor and poor planning on my part.

As foolish as this sounds, I didn't test the sensor in the bung that was welded in before having the entire exhaust (basically) permanantly welded under the car. When the bung was welded on, they used an old o2 sensor to keep the hole open. My A/F sensor is bigger and won't go through all the excess weld scrap on the inside. The only way to fix this is unbolt the exhaust from the back of the turbo and possibly cut the pipe further back, clean it out, install the sensor, reweld the pipe and bolt it back up.

I'm not renting another auto transport so I hope it runs well enough when I first start it up to limp it to the shop before testing the A/F.

So, that being said, next steps are wire all the gauges, clean the engine comparment and reattach the front end panels. Then attach the Tien hood dampeners and start on the inside. That will probably be this weekend.

 

I still think a black turboed xB looks sexier then these guys boosting Black Cherrys.

 

Ah...cool car...becarful with those leaks...certainly a nightmare for your tuner...btw..which disco potato are u on again?

 

lol.. don't be hatin' on my BCP. Without black you couldn't have black cherry... so that should make you feel better.

Come to think of it... I've only seen one other BCP here in town. Several blacks, lots of TCM's and a few PW.

And thanks renton. Although I have no idea what you're talking about with your question.

 

how much of a gain? 30 horses?

 

No ... 31 hp gain.. gosh...

 

lol ... as of right now I have a realized gain of -89 whp.

I'm not guessing numbers nor posting opinions. I will post my dyno when I make it that far, however.

I started her up this weekend!!!

Well, sort of. I put the fluids back, checked everything for tightness and ran my breakin routine three times. (I came up with a checklist to get fluids moving and watch for leaks.) That's as far as I made it. I had a massive amount of fuel leaking around the injectors. I was worried about that since I pulled them twice without replacing the o-rings. So, I'll be getting some o's and starting over. More updates to come.

 

Jesus. My injectors were pulled in total prob half a dozen times. I had fuel leakage a couple times, but that was due to a seating issue.

Since I am redesigning my kit, how and where are you pumping oil back into the engine from the turbo?

 

Oh yeah bro..any use for an oil catch tank?Was thinking ot fitting one in?

 

*watching*

 

IT'S ALIVE!

Arlight, an update and a couple of things for you guys posting...

No pictures for this update, sorry. I went to the dealership and got r@ped for some o-rings and seats. ($43) But, that fixed it right up. No more fuel leaks. The seats I had were pinched and some were cracked/dry rotted.

So, I pushed the car in the driveway and fired her up. Took a bit of priming and sputtering and dying, but got it to idle finally. Now, there is a hole in the exhaust where my A/F sensor goes and it's right in front of the secondary o/2 sensor. That's probably freaking it out, but it held a fairly steady idle at 1100 rpm with minor sputtering here and there. On top of the hole being there, the 3/4 of a tank of gas has been in the car since last July.

The E-manage is connected, but none of the gauges are in yet so I can't really diagnose anything until tonight. I will hook my laptop up to the e-manage and get a better feel for whats going on.

Now, I know to take it very slow and easy just starting out with this whole tuning thing so I didn't get into the throttle much. And I've never had any car with a turbo on it before, but I'm not sure how to tell if it's working. I mean... I will have a boost gauge and that will tell me... and when I dyno it, that will. But, shouldn't it have a distinctive sound if i rev it? I don't see an increase in rev acceleration, don't hear a nice loud pshpshpsh off the bov or anything. It just revs up to about 3500 and then back down like nothing happened. i did pull the throttle cable a little and then drop it while my hand was in front of the bov and felt a little air come out. I'm thinking it may be possible vac. leak? Any suggestions? The bov is a hks ssq. Will having a hole in the exhaust affect it? In my mind it wouldn't because it's past the turbo. Anything on that side is only travelling one direction.

I had a few drops of oil (literally I probaby only had three or four drops come out around the oil feed line off the filter sandwich adaptor) and I had about 2 oz. leak and fall under the turbo. I'll have to lift it to see where those are coming from.

If I can limp her up to the exhaust shop, they will clean out the A/F bung and mount that sensor which is my main priority next. They also are going to custom make me a snorkel off the front of the turbo to follow the chargepipe towards the front and then turn off to the driver-side in front of the fender (where most aftermarket cai put the filters) for my air filter to be mounted safer. Sure it will add a small amount of lag, but this will be a daily driver and I sure don't want to worry as much about water getting in there.

I am going to also have them install a bung in that new intake pipe. I am getting a Saikou Michi Stage 1 DC3 oil catch can. I'll run a line from the blow-by on the valve cover to the can and another line from the can to the intake barb. This will give me the vaccum needed to pull the oil to the can and keep it from going back through the system. The second can will be inline from the PCV to the original intake port on the block.

________

Pat, I'm running my oil return to the oil pan.





It is coming straight from the pump, so it is fine to pump it to the bottom of the oil resevoir. Our pickup is well above this and offset. The biggest concern I had at first was aeration of the oil. (The circulation of oil causing air pockets in the lines) I've check mine and this is not an issue. (You will see bubbles on the dipstick if there's a problem.)

 

If you rev it to 3000K and it just bounce off, that is LIMP HOME MODE.

Since the 14b kicks in 3000-4000 rpms, you are not creating a positive vacuum aka boost. No boost, no whine, no pressure to release off of the BOV or the WG

I have found that advance sells oil drain plugs that work great as O2 bung plugs. I have one in my exhaust now since Midas stripped the treads from my O2 sensor.

The cause of Limp Home Mode, is the A/F ratio and the ECU not mapping correctly. Try pulling your ECU fuse and plugging it back in, if that doesn't work double check your e-manage to make sure that the MAF wires are connected correctly.

Its been about a year so I am kinda blowing the dust off my brain on the troubleshooting. If you have any questions feel free to ask.. I won't charge ya.. .yet...

Believe me, I am watching your designing just as much as you watched mine, This way I can find out what else works for the "Remote Mount Turbo Kit"

 

well... i'm writing from my phone again but i'll add some more pics tommorow.

I've got a problem. imagine that. I can't get it to run now. I saved data from the emanage that I will post tomorrow if anyone can look at it and tell anything.

Basically it's putting a LOT of fuel to it and bogging down. I also have a good bit of oil and a little gas blowing out of the exhaust.

Any suggestions? Any info I can add to help explain? More coming tomorrow.

 

you got to figure those injectors are ment for a 2.4 liter motor. was the e-mange pretuned like it was supposed to? I had oil blow out my tail pipe at one time.. it was nasty, cause it mixed with the water.. problem was the pump.

 

Ok. hmm... where to start.

I am assuming the emanage was pretuned. It has the ZPI sticker wrapped around one side and when I connected it to the laptop, I downloaded the main unit file. It had an A/F map and a seperate injector map. I've posted the original gsc file and the logged data from it starting, running a constant 2900 rpm and then the jumping on my website at www.websitevelocity.com/zpixbeman.zip

And how did it mix with water?? Where did water come into the system?

Okay, here's the complete update from last night.

I went and got a plug for the A/F hole from the exhaust shop.



This worked perfectly until I can get that hole cleaned out for my sending unit.



I then tried to address the two oil leaks. The front was easy. The oil feed line coming off the sandwich adapter wasn't completely seated. So, I tightened that down. I felt around the feed line and return line on the turbo and couldn't find any oil, then I realized the reason it was leaking was it had blown out of the A/F hole (see above pic) all over the underneath of the car. !?!?

I tightened down the feed tube banjo bolt a little more and tried to crank her up with the plug in. It had a really hard time starting and then LOTS of smoke.


(not really a good pic, but i had the camera and wanted to use it.)

I checked under the car... no leaks!!!

I cranked it again and gave it a little gas. I held the throttle position about 2900 rpm for probably... 45 seconds and it was just a smooth 2900 rpm with little change. Then it started jumping on me. Without moving my foot my RTA showed it going from ~2900 rpm to ~2300 rpm to ~2900 rpm etc. every 4 seconds from peak to peak. I finally just shut it off thinking the ECU was trying to trim it back. This entire time the CEL, VSC, Trac lights were on. (I had pulled the fuse several times and disconnected the battery several times, but it throws the lights before it gets cranked the first time.)

Then I walked around back.





Which after thinking about the situation all night I have a pretty good guess why.

Take a look here:



This is the way ZPI sent my turbo. The green box is my oil feed. The orange box is about where the return is. (You can't see it in the pic for the pipe.) As far as I know, there is no way to change this on this turbo. If I turn the compressor side or the exhaust side, the pipes they made for it won't line up anymore. On the middle section on the exhaust side, there is a pin that only has one location it can go. I was thinking it wouldn't matter about a gravity situation because it's a pressurized system and that oil pump is doing the work, but apparantly it's not doing any work and the oil is building up in the turbo and getting pushed out the exhaust side. So have I totally screwed the seals up?

I will have to check the intake side, pull the vaccum line from the BOV and check the plugs to see if anything is getting fouled up on the front end.


Any helpful suggestions to try from this point?

~~~~~~~~~~~~

On a lighter note, I installed some of my guage wiring and realized Autometer only gives you 6" of harness to wire your gauges. They daisy-chain together.



Well, three are on the dash and two are on the steering column, so 6" won't cut it. I called and they want almost 20 bucks for a 3' piece.


(This is the 6" piece)

So, I'm soldering my own wire in to extend it.

~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

This is the problem I had Jason. Was the oil getting blown out the exhaust and staying in the system everytime. Since it did that on first good boost, it would blow a cloud of smoke.

 

Yes, the oil was blown out the exhaust. The thing that gets me though is it is all new oil and new everything from the header back. When it came out it was almost black. It was actually a milky opaque gray color. Almost the consistency of fuel and oil mixed. But why would it come out so dark, so quick? I hope I don't bugger up my secondary o/2 during this.

 

umm yea.. You have a Cat right? That thing aint exactly clean. plus some of that oil is mixed with smoke. You also gotta figure byproduct of combustion is water. thats why your car will normally have a drip behind it. Oh and you will bugger up the O2 if not tuned right.