No cat. No resonator. New header, downpipe, turbo, straight (well relatively speaking) pipe to Greddy Evo 2. That's it.

I'm thinking I'll pull the zip tune from the emanage and start with a basemap only changing the injector size.

For those of you who haven't downloaded my emanage file:
My paramater settings are:

Air Flow Meter Change is TY_HW-3

disconnect

rpm start = 2000
point 1 = 2000
point 2 = 3000
point 3 = 4000
point 5 = 5000
point 6 = 6000

injector change

180 cc before / 370 cc after = .486 correction factor

Additional Injector Map is checked
Air Flow Adjustment Map is checked

When I look at the Air Flow Adjustment Map it is all 0's. No settings at all.

Also, I didn't think our injectors were 180 cc. Maybe they just put that to get the right correction.

 

I found this about reclocking the 14b. I will definately consider this as the next major step to get that oil feeding correctly, unless someone out there thinks it's less of an issue than I believe it is. Let me know....

Clock 14b Turbo

 

WHat AFR did u tune the NA part of yr car?You need not richen it up when yr not in the boost zone eh..

 

I haven't tuned any of it. I just put the kit on, put the emanage on with the tune that ZPI shipped it with and started the car. Sort of... lol

I drained the oil tonight and will pull the turbo Friday night to reclock it.

More coming later...

 

I thought the 1nzfe injectors are 220cc?

 

I've seen threads that claim everything from 210cc to 270cc but have never found an exact number for them.

 

Yea...220cc i got it from Denso which manufactures my injectors for my 1nzfe in ASia.

 

the ones I had were tC made by Denso.. i checked the part numbers

 

I did get to extend my gauge wire last night. I soldered four 2.5 foot pieces of 18 ga. wire to the original harness. They used about a 22ga. wire that had a stiffer shielding, but 18 was the smallest I could get ahold of.

I needed this to connect the dash gauge to the epod column gauge.

 

this is some project in the making,,,,,I hope it works great

 

<-- Doesn't want to see Jason's bill.

 

no joke

 

$$ is nt the most impt factor here...its his darn dedication to put this time and sweat into building something he loves!!! We can always earn back the $$...but the process...its pricelesss!!!!!!

 

Oh I agree. I have plans of grandeur but no financial backing.

 

<-- doesn't want to see Jason's bill either. lol

Trust me, I'm broke now. I'm not even going to be able to get wheels and tires. I've been pondering the question... can I register for wheels for the baby shower? I mean... the baby definately needs some Volks.

I pulled the turbo last night. What a freaking mess. It's just my guess, but oil isn't supposed to get into the exhaust or the charge pipe.

Some visual stimulation...

Turbo back out...


Hole where it sat...


It would have been easier now that I look back on it to just undo the spring loaded bolts that connect the header and downpipe, but I didn't want to deal with those again, so I decided to take just the turbo loose. Of course I couldn't get to the two bolts holding the chargepipe on without dropping it down anyway. When I did this is what I got:



Umm...

Then I realized that the weld for the exhaust to the axleback has a tiny hole in it. I found out since oil was dripping out of it as well.



umm again...

So, it could be because the oil setup was messed up and it was holding way too much in the turbo without recirculating it correcty and the pressure pushed it up the pipes. ........ or my seals are gone.

I'm going to be pulling the turbo apart, shearing the pin off the exhaust side and reclocking it to line up the inlet/outlet correctly for this application. While I'm in there I might as well rebuild it, but I hate having to wait on parts. Tonight's the last night I get to work on it for a while. We got a yard sale/babyshower/4d ultrasound coming up with lots of house cleaning to be done.

I'll document the clocking and refitment and get some photos.

Also, thinking of the downpipe... I'm not sure I ever mentioned the problems I had with that the first time. I tried to connect the ZPI downpipe to the DCSports Header using the original spring loaded bolts from the exhaust manifold. Those bolts have a collar on them so you can seat them to the proper depth. The flange for the ZPI downpipe didn't have holes big enough for them to pass through, so we had to grind them down to fit. (thanks for the help Josh)

More later....

 

don't mention it smi. i smelled like gas for the rest of the night after coming by to see it fired up. if you need me to bring the thunder with the dead blow again, just let me know.

 

Welcome to my life and problems Jason, except, I was able to get boost, so every time I did, oil would blow out my BOV. As far as the rebuild, there is a company I posted about in my thread, GPoPShop that are good guys down your way. They can get rebuild parts for the 14b. I just put new O-Rings and Piston Rings in mine thinking the same thing that I had blown out a seal.

I dont think there is anyone that has done this setup without problems.

 

Is it possible I got a turbo with seals already bad?? I mean... at this point I wouldn't put it past them to send a used one or a rebuilt unit.

I know the injector seats were dryrotted and cracking.

I'm not 100% sure that the seals are bad though. If the oil had no way of getting out of there it would builid up pressure and it has to go somewhere.

Thinking back on the first time it "ran" I recall hearing a noise. I could hear the turbo spooling at about 3300 rpm and then as I pulled off the throttle I heard something loud. My dad was standing beside the car and he said it backfired. It may have. It also had an open hole in the exhaust for the a/f sensor. So, it could have been a backfire, an exhaust noise, a turbo noise, etc. But since then, no spool what-so-ever.

I'm going to see if there is any play in the turbines tonight. I know it will just mean the bearings are good and not the seals. But, check that first. Then I may hook up the oil pump/turbo combo with it off the car. I've got the oil pump on a momentary switch for power where I can prime the oil system without turning the car over. I'll see it that gives me another reason to clean the garage.

I might also try to get an inline 1/8" npt sensor adaptor to go between the banjo bolt and center section of the turbo and see what pressure I'm running past the bolt off the stock pump and secondary return together. but it will be a pain to keep pulling this thing.

It is crazy that I'm getting oil that black after 15 minutes of running brand new 5w30 but it could be scorched from lots of different things.

I talk... type out loud a lot ... haha.. my post count should be way higher.

Thanks for the info. Those guys got a website?

 

You just need a few bump posts like this

bump!

 

Another long weekend, but I got a lot finished. I started out by pulling the turbo apart. I marked an original line across the compressor housing, center section and exhaust housing. I then removed the ring clamp that holds the exhasut housing on. Once off, I pulled the locking pin out. I then removed the snapring and compressor housing leaving me with the center section and turbines (and a big oily mess). I cleaned the oil up from everything and then took a drill to the "pin" on the compressor housing. I drilled it out so that the center section flange would slide freely past it. There wasn't any play in the turbines and they spun freely so I reassembled everything about 180 degress from where it started. I remounted the turbo only having to loosen the ring clamp to rotate it slightly to line up with the downpipe mounting flange. While this was going on I also cleaned the pipes the best I could to get the excess oil out.

I put the turbo back in completely and it sits a lot better now. It's tucked under the car a lot more and the oil lines run from top (in) to bottom (out) now.

I went to reattach the oil line on the oil pan and the bulkhead spun. So I had to take the oil pan off again and go get another oil pan gasket. I cleaned it and the block, tightened the nut and reataining nut on the bulkhead, recoated it with new silicon and put it back under the car. Attached the oil return line and it spun again!?!?! So, I just left it overnight for the silicon to set up. That will hold it for now unless I try to move it and break that seal. I'm going to go get some jbweld and make sure it's not going anywhere...

I filled it back up with oil last night and tried to start it up using a new map. I've got the original map that ZPI sent with the kit, another map for our cars that is running 5 psi and a final map that is running 7.5. After comparing the maps I realized that they've pretuned this kit for 5. I'm not sure what spring is in it, but I'm going to be pulling it to replace it with a 7.5. I may get an entirely new wastegate. The one they sent is a gt concepts and I don't know anything about these so I'm going to do a little research.

So, I saved the 5psi map off the main unit and made a copy of it to play with. I adjusted it incrementally for about 20 minutes and got it to crank without throttle assistance, idle between 700-850 rpm without sputtering and rev/drop without dropping below the curve/stalling. It was also about 11:30 on Sunday night and the car is not that quiet when I'm on it so I called it a night happy that for the first time in a year I actually put it in reverse and drove it back in the garage.

It was still blowing oil out the exhaust, but it's likely to be just leftover's from the other day. It stopped smoking after I got the idle situated so most of it has burnt off or blown out. There was no leak from anywhere until right before moving the car. (I checked it everytime I tried to crank it or shut it off. Which was a lot.) I had a little seepage from the back of the turbo on the ground and little from the "front". I didn't jack it back up to see exactly where it's coming from. And of course the tiny bit coming out from the hole in the weld on the exhaust.

I'm still not sure the turbo is building boost. And I'm fairly sure that I should be able to tell just by listening. I'll check the bov and see if it's stuck. And if the seals are gone, it may not build any boost. We'll just have to see later.

Next steps are to get the dash in and wired up with all the gauges, get the oil catch can installed, weld that bung on the oil pan, put some heat shield over where the clutch lines run into the passenger compartment above the turbo, change wastegate or wastegate spring, check BOV and continue tuning it. Then I'll take it to the exhaust shop to fix the leak, install the A/F and build the snorkel.

I've got a few pictures of the turbo clocking I'll post later.