ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Well, my FIC still can't pass a clean crk signal to the ECU so I'm considering a few options. One of them is to re-wire the FIC so instead of intercepting the crk and cam, it will only tap the crk for rpm. This will solve the crk timing related misfires and P0335 crk sensor codes but I won't be able to retard timing.

Sooo... how much timing are you 93 pump guys pulling at 6psi?

fmtc4ever

iTrader: (-1)

great question....

dont have an answer

3min3m2

On my tC, currently I start pulling around 3-3.5k, one degree. Top end I pull two degrees, around 5500 or so.

This is my VERY Basic Tune, getting ready to be changed soon probably.

This is on ONE step colder plugs, running rich.

minimum octane of 92.

HOWEVER, General rule of thumb is one degree per PSI. but i know my tC stock pulls a lot of timing on top end, seen a max of 22 degrees total at WOT 6k RPMS.

kit tops out at 6 PSI.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, retard.










J/K

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. I forgot to mention that I'll be running 93 octane with 1 step colder plugs, a 170* thermostat and targetting 12.5:1 in closed loop and 11.5:1 in open loop.

I hate to run without the ability to retard timing but I also hate the idea of buying an oscilloscope and trying to fix my FIC cps issues or switching from the FIC to the Ultimate and giving up CL tuning. I see full boost in CL with this little 50 trim.

tainoxl

3 degree at about 10 psi close to 4 at 12psi. on 550cc injectors. 12.3 to 11.9 afr in boost 14.4 to 14.9 out of boost. You should be fine on low boost.

3min3m2

With my EXTREMELY limited experience, these sound relatively safe.

Yeah I wouldn't mind being able to tune CL at least a little bit. This hitting full boost crazy fast can't be easy on the motor. However I do love how it spools thanks to the coated manifold.

I mean technically speaking, given all of those factors, I can not see how you would see detonation other then at WOT possibly in the lower RPMS before it pulls. But if your newer xB is anything like my 06 tC, it crazy pulls timing at WOT. from 36 at occasional cruise down to 18 at one point... I really fail to see pre-ignition a possibility in upper RPMS unless something else is wrong.

And I think the colder plugs will help prevent that as well.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. Even Toan at P-Tuning kind of agrees. He said that it would be borderline, but I wouldn't expect him to outright say it will be fine without knowing much about my setup.

Anyway, just in case I might need to pull a little timing, I ordered a USB 2-channel oscilloscope and pulled the FIC and harness today. I'm going to add 330-10K pots to the crk and cam signals and dial the resistance in with the o-scope. That should work but if it doesn't, I'll probably re-wire the FIC and give up timing retard. Luckily the ecu handles 440cc pretty well after about an hour of learning the trims.

BTW, I am not alone in this anymore. I spoke with Rustin at Boomslang today and he informed me that there are others having the same problems. It seems to be hit or miss. The FIC works with some XB2s, others need the 2.2k resistors and others can't get rid of the crk sensor problems. I really hate to be in this position again after the harness problems but it appears that I'll be the first to "scope" out this new issue. Lucky me...

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I am inclined to agree that it should be pretty safe. As I understand things, the oe knock sensor actually works very well. The problem with it is that Toyota was very conservative with the ecu programming. When the ecu see knock, it pulls 10* instantly. Safe but I'd rather pull 2* and avoid the knock than have the ecu pull 10* with the resulting loss of power.

FWIW, Dezod Don posted pics of a blown 2AZ-FE a while back. The interesting thing about this is that the engine was totally stock and had detonated itself to death simply because the oe knock sensor had come loose from the block. The way I see it, if a stock 2AZ relies that heavily on the knock sensor just to deal with 87 pump, the knock sensor must work well.

3min3m2

True...granted 87 isn't what it used to be even a few years ago just in my "research" of driving.

No problem trying to help out, its what a LOT of other ppl have done to me..figure why not pass it on

tainoxl

Just fyi, I did a boost leak test today after watching crush's video and man did I have leaks everywhere. Just about every vac line was leaking, turbo compressor housing, and one coupling. Fixed all except the turbo itself and man what a difference. My st/lt smoothed out, boost know comes much quicker and is solid, even my exhaust got quieter. Zip ties are a fail btw, even when the line was really tight to the fittings it stilled managed to leak.

3min3m2

I failed to find any leaks with my Greddy kit. Any...

That almost worries me...

But car runs great other then an occasional funky idle, think i need a new primary O2...i mean 80k is a lot for one...

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tip. I've been meaning to do a leak test when the weather improves (no garage). I've got an o-ring between the comp housing and back plate and all my T-bolt connections have been torqued and re-torqued. If zip ties won't seal vacuum lines, what else is there and where can I get it? FWIW, I have no symptoms of boost leakage so it's probably slight.

madmarx

tainoxl,
What are you using inplace of zip ties.? I found the screw claps just cut right through the vacuum line size tubing.

coryjames

i dont even use hose clamps they are unneeded use the right size line it should never push of i tested my system at 20 psi they held fine

tainoxl

What he said, I switched out a few lines for better quality lines and better fit. Some of my lines were ____ty and where dry rotting around the fittings causing it to leak, some were a bit to big and ziptie did not work. I did use hose clamp on my brake boost line to the vacum block. Hey Cory your compressor housing did not leak, mine did at the bolts.