WOW - so I had to put me rear sway on the TRD to 'STREET' because my frame was so stiff!!!

I moved from 7th on saturday to 2nd in STS/NS4 against the course designer only .3 ahead of me in a Miata properly setup and had Proxes RA1 tires -

I BLEW everyone away with 9th best PAX and 15th RAW.

When the new 17" wheels get here with the tires and I set the camber ITS ON.

Our FASTEST of nationals drivers got a 43.8 I think? and I was at 47.2 but layed down a 46.5 on my 'fun run' that didn't count damnit (and I had a passenger!). But this is against a Miata that's got a National Title on race tires.

I'm some coilovers - and race tires maybe some bushings and new brake pads away from keepin' with Mitch in that Nationals kinda time. Who'd like to see a tC do that?

I did get to drive his rivals car this weekend and WOW race tires in an MR2 with coilovers and the whole SHEEE bang was BANGIN'.

Anyways that rear bar REALLY did the trick I have some solid 1st places commin up now.

 

so you lowered your sway cause you were over steering?

 

The rear would get light mid corner because the frame didn't absorb any of the corner like it used to and the combo of that and the sway of full stiffness my springrate was insane. I needed it to compress the shock a bit more so I wouldn't get so much rebound.

It would slide out and I wouldn't exactly call that oversteer? The rear acted like it had this crazy high spring rate and tried to just jump after it compressed mid corder - pop goes the weasel. haha.

After I did loosen my sway my rear end came up PERFECT today without rebounding too fast and I had NO control issues just grip with my crap tires. The weight though was applied to the tires better than they have been before and I got about the best grip I've ever had. I can't WAIT until I have the right tires. Its going to be Christmas for my car.

I still drove it well though like I try to.

 

Here is some info I picked up while doing my install - hope it helps. I took a few other pics that other people didnt have so it might help.

http://www.DetailedHosting.com/users...ls/rear_strut/

 

Very Nice!

 

 

Did you coat the floor under the spare? I had that emptied out for awhile and it gets kinda scuffed I wanted to coat or paint it with something.

I think I'm going to scrape the concrete matting out as well.

 

Besides the TRD Sway, my suspension is stock, How much benefit would I get from the bar, and is it a good idea to have it when I will have to drive in the snow? Coppermine's bouncing story is kinda of scaring me from it.

 

Don't let it scare you -

It simply meant that I needed to re-adjust my sway bar because I didn't need it so stiff. They torqing of the frame was gone and I needed to be able to let the car roll more and compress the shock so it wouldn't rebound so fast. That wasn't a problem! It was a good thing! I just don't have adjustable suspension.

It really helps apply the weight to the tire and increase its effectiveness. In the snow I would not see it create any problem it really helps hold the grip on the tire and not suck away the pressure that should be applied by the frame.

*edit* in the snow the best traction is common sense - in any vehicle. Don't expect to be a rally car.

 

FYI, I just got my brace in the mail and the spacers were not included. I contacted Rob and was told they are using shorter bolts now so the spacers are not required. Just a heads up for those that will be recieving the parts soon and might be concerning about not seeing them. Havent installed mine yet but will be soon.

 

yup - i used RAAMatt. I put a few layers down and a few types of material. RAAMatt offers a foil type of material thats sticky then I sprayed glue and put the second type of foam you see in the picture ontop.

 

I actually like the spacer. If i were you I would get a few different size washers so you can tighten up the nuts and have it supported better. If they arent including them I would think there is no need but it wouldnt be a bad idea.

 

You just made my life easier..all the above is correct though...

 

A 13/32" drill bit gives you a snug fit for the drivers side frame rail, instead of the recommended 7/16". I also used a 3/8" bit to start off, but i think it wasnt necessary. The drilling was a breeze with those 2 drill bits and a good drill, mine did ~1400rpm

 

a good drill does work

 

JUST MAKE sure you don't make the hole to big...

too big of a hole is not good in any situation..hehe

 

no,no its not
made mine big enough to pound it in softly with a rubber mallet

 

i didnt wanna hit it because i was afraid I would mess up the thread on the bolt ....that was pretty much my only fear because I didnt have a spare.

 

i got tired of drilling, so i put it in, and tapped it
it didn't have much resistance, so i just put it through

 

Did anyone that got the kit without spacers install theirs yet? Cause the bolts that came with mine were too short. Anyone else have this problem?