Definately get some drill bits made for metal before you attempt it. I found that using a Sizer bit--not sure what they're called, look like a stepped pyramid--was helpful in cutting the hole underneath.

You don't have to drill the passenger side, it's the Driver's side that has to be drilled out. It was close to get to it with the stock muffler setup, but you should be able to get a wrench in just fine.

Worst case, you can use a combo spanner or crescent wrench to hold it from the bottom, and use a socket wrench on top.

 

^^ thanks a bunch bro. I almost lost my eye when that dam bit broke if it weren't for my dad's 10 dollar sunglasses. Round two next week!

 

bump for a greeat review and product..

 

Just had mine delivered today! Cant wait to put it in tomorrow. Good thing this thread exist too, the directions my strut came with are for the installation of "adjustable rear panhard bar kit for 2002-2006 Mustang" ...doh! someone put in the wrong directions, no biggy.

I just want to know with these new shorter bolts, do the washer and nut side still face downwards.....and what is this huge zip tie it came with for?

 

zip tie is for attaching you jack to the bar.

 

Just wanted to chime in and say I too am pleased with my purchase. I can definitely feel it around tight turns and I'm happy to say I hear a lot fewer noises coming from the back.

Only word of advice for someone putting this on- don't be like me and install it on the hottest day of the month (opps). Oh and make sure you have a good metal drill bit- I was using an older one that sucked and was at it for 20 minutes, went out and picked up another one and bang! 10 seconds later was done drilling

 

Good to hear you are happy. Keep orders coming guys tons of dealers have these ready to ship. TTT

 

Yup,

<-- always in stock over here ---

Tai
CorSport

 

anyone else have issues with the passenger side arm's bolt not being long enough to fit WITH the washer?

 

I didn't have any problems with the shorter bolts. I just tightened the rear two bolts real tight once- without the washers, then unscrewed them one at a time and added the washer the second time around.

Oh and though I still love the strut, and would certainly recommend it, it has made the evil noises in my roof worse. No worries though I'm going to bring it into the dealership Friday and let them have a go at it.
Again great product, great company!

 

hey kaeon,

i couldn't drill the drvier's side hole with a craftsman electric drill. but it doesn't even scratch it... do i need to use a power drill or do i have to have a special 7/16 thread maker drill bit? please me help me... i really recommend this product even if i only have three points connected right now... you could really feel the difference... ingalls/rob you guyz are the best... kaeon nice post by the way...

 

No start the drill up first then just lightly place it into the hole and go in and out SLOWLY... If you do it to fast and try to shove it in, it will just jam up....


..Ok that really sounded perverted

 

Give Ingalls a call a 18006419795. Anyone who answers there will be able to help you out with any questions you might have

 

I had the same problem, I was at it for 45 mins with no success, then I went down to the hardware store got a 7/16 drill bit -I think made by irwin? (cost $10 for that one bit)anyhow I came back and it was like a hot knife through butter, it made all the difference and I was done drilling in under a minute.

 

someone suggested a different size in this thread that works brillantly.

 

dont worry - i had 3 drills. ...2 old ones (which i almost broke because they got so hot) and my new cordless. I used the two old ones till i couldnt hold them anymore and then my new one. It took me atleast an hour to cut through it. I also had to get a metal bit which cost me $14 ....it sucks but it worked. DO NOT TRY THIS WITHOUT A METAL BIT ...simple as that. Dont do it. It will not work. Get the right metal bit and two drills - use your old one and then the new one so you dont have to put excess stress on just one. I honestly was using the wrong bit to start because I thought I could swing it.... i was wrong.

 

Thats one thing that we have seen a lot of. Please for your safety use a NEW METAL drill bit. DONT use a wood/metal combo bit. The metal only drill tip is made to drill the hole that needs to be drilled. New bit and a charged drill and the install will be easy.

 

I finally got it in today. I had one of those cone pyramid shaped bits and it started cutting pretty wheel then it just stops cut and just spins inside of the hole. I was at it for like 2 hours and it didnt move a millimeter. I just gave up and stuck the bolt in from inside the car and hit it a couple times with a hammer and jammed that sh*t in and torqued down the bolt from under the car nice and tight. I was too tired to test it out after that.

 

I am sorry it was so difficult on your Tc. I know some of the models have been harder than others to drill. My tc didnt even need to be drilled for some reason. It shows there will be differences between each car even in the same model line.

 

since it already has a hole and is threaded - I wonder why they didnt just use a threaded bolt so no drilling is needed.