good job, rob!

 

wait huh what??

originally the kits included a long 110mm bolt that required that 15mm thick spacer to make sure there wasn't a threading issue..


now the kits include a 90mm bolt and just a regular washer..

sounds like you tightened up the strut bolts b4 you installed the 90mm...it causes the bar to flex upwards when you do that making installation impossible..basically put everything on loose and THEN tighten it down...

or contact me directly..

robs@ingallseng.com

 

you my friend




are an instagator...lol

still liking the rear shock tower?

I hopefully will have a front upper to go with that in a couple months..

 

I just spoke with Rob at Ingalls about the short bolt issue since I am seeing the same thing on my car. He is under the impression that the car they tested the shorter bolts on had the brace with longer bolts previously installed to start with and some deflection in the metal may have given them incorrect data. They are going to look into it and get it take in care of so look for a response tomorrow. Based on what Im seeing, an extra 1/4 to 1/2" of bolt length may be all that is necessary to get everything to fit properly.

 

interesting - im glad I got the spacers. I rather have the setup like that. Im suprised they changed things up. Since they are getting rid of the spacer they should include a heavy washer so stability remains. but thats just my 2cents.

Someone is going to reply and say that it doesnt matter if there is one ...and it prob doesnt ...but it wouldnt be a bad idea. I know it comes with one washer but having a larger washer to put under the other one would be a good idea.

 

The kit still includes washers, but with the washers installed there is only about 1 or 2 visible threads which cannot be started. If the washers are not used the nut can be started but cannot be fully threaded. I can understand the desire for Ingalls to eliminate the spacer as it will help to reduce manufacturing costs.

 

Ive been back and forth with Rob about the short bolt length and this is what has come out of it:

They will fit the car with the washers installed, but the metal does have to be compressed before the washers can go on. Basically, start by tightening the bolts with no washers installed until you get some thread depth by compressing the metal, then undo them, install the washers and finally torque everything down. Ingalls feels that the bar is more functional with some level of compression on the metal of the body and since the bolts only need about 5mm of space, there is only a little bit of compression required.

 

Thanks for doing my dirty work...

I will try to get some pics of the compression Instigator is referencing..

It makes the bar more stable in that compressed fittment with the shorter bolt...

 

waiting for your review instigator

 

Only drove around a little last night but I noticed sharper turn in and less creaking over bumps. No inidication of increased oversteer with the stiffer swaybar like coppermine saw, but then again I havent been on track yet. If I do go to the track next , it will be on July 8th or 9th so I cant really give a full review until then. Of course by then I will have my new flywheel and clutch installed so I will really be pushing hard to see the changes.

 

Let me know how your car reacts - it only did that with my TRD bar at full stiffness.

 

I installed mine a while back. It's fully hidden, I put the spare and cut the stock foam to fit. Turning improved a little, and it stiffened up the ride. I'm happy with it.

One thing though, I remember the instructions saying something about the bolts for the rear strut towers being 17mm . Those aren't 17mm, they're 14mm, if I remember correctly. Just FYI.

I should re-tighten all the bolts, or at least check them. It's been at least a week.

 

And IMO, like an idiot I didn't realize those bolts are torqued down. Of course they are--they're strut tower bolts. I broke a cheap socket wench--Pep Boy's special--removing two of the bolts.

Which is hillarious--I now know I can exert at least 95ft LBS of torque.

I stopped, and got some non-cheap tools, then finished the install. I don't have the back two bars tightened as far as they can go, I've been planning to go back out and bend some metal when I get a free day again.

Which reminds me, I really need to remove the torque wrench from my trunk. I probably shouldn't have a baseball bat-sized metal bar with a handgrip in my trunk for too long.

 

bump

 

Lol I have broke so many diff sockets in my time.

 

bump

 

who all sells these?

 

Corsport
New edge Performance
Ultra Rev
Dezod

just to name a couple

Do a search under Ingalls and all their sales threads will come up for it..

mention that you talked to Rob and they will show you some love.....

 

Man drilling through this thing is a b*tch. I just broke a drillbit trying to drill out the hole so I'm not going to have time to finish this thing until next week.

 

Also, did anyone else have trouble drilling because their exhaust was in the way? I have the HKS hi-power so im not sure if the drill bit will clear the muffler. This thing is a pain in the ___ to install.