you dont need to bleed the clutch.. and yeah 1 bottle is 1 quart, you will need less than 3 bottles, prolly like 2.75 quarts/bottle

 

2.5 - 2.75 quarts is all you need.

 

but i want to bleed the clutch because it feels really spongy on the top 1 inch

 

i think its normal to have the first inch spongy the spring didnt engage yet

 

i dont know.. i really dont like it. i have to check other tc's...
btw i have trd clutch

 

i would prefer it to be spongy for the 1st 1 inch, its better on traffic

 

my clutch engages almost when i depressed completely... so the first 1 inch is annoying and then there is another 1(maybe2?) inch which is still dead but the pedal feels stiff and nice

 

Well, not sure why anyone hasn't said this but.....the clutch runs off the master cylinder, NOT the transmission fluid. To bleed the clutch, you have to bleed it from the slave cylinder and feed through the master cylinder. Brake fluid vs. Gear fluid.

 

omg.. it chinese for me...

 

Changing the clutch fluid (gear oil) won't make the clutch pedal stiffer or softer. That is manipulated by bleeding the system via the slave cylinder (located on the front of the transmission, to the driver's side of the header). There's a bleeder valve on there. To bleed it, your best bet is to use a pressure canister and hook it up to the brake master cylinder reservoir (located on driver's side of engine near driver's side strut tower). With the pressure up and the new fluid in the canister, loosen the slave cylinder bleeder valve and allow all dark fluid to escape. When clean fluid begins to come out, count to 3 and then close the bleeder valve. That's just what I do to make sure I don't close it too early

 

thx for the info... but i would need to see these on pics so i could do it myself..

 

i just did my gear oil change yesterday. It is hella harder than my first time. Because my Supercharger is in the way.


Here is a pic to let you guys know don't loose those 2 rings, because i almost lost them.

 

i need a fast answer because im about to go and buy the oils for my car in ... 2hours.. so.. im gonna get mt90 for the transmission but i was thinking to get 10w30 synthetic for the motor too... of course redline.. any input about the redline motor oil for the tc? it will be good or there i should go with oem?

plus i want to get trd oilfilter, or the regular oem is fine? i dont expect more hp.. just doing it maybe its better for my car..

 

OEM filter is all you need. The TRD filter is a high flowing filter which is not necessarily a good thing for an NA engine. Higher flowing filters are good for higher hp engines that require more lubrication at a faster rate, but NA engines I would just use OEM.

Haven't heard anything good/bad about the Redline motor oil. Their trans fluid is good but not many people I know or talk to use their motor oil.


P.S.....I bought a pressure brake bleeder so when I do my brake system and clutch line, I'll make a little DIY on my other site (clubsciontc.com) and forward the link over here

 

ok.. i got royal purple engine oil but im not sure if 4 qts was enough, because it took all of them really easy...

plus the mt90 trans oil

oh and toyota didnt had trd filter so i got a regular filter from toyota.
the guy who helped me he told me it might be the time to check on the spark plugs ( i have 70k miles) and we gonna doo a vacuum test too.. just because of my curiosity

 

what clutch line you bought? i wanted to get the ingalls one but they told me that they discontinued it

 

I'm still running my OEM line at 83K and it has no dryrot signs so I'm not going to change it now.


Tip for Royal Purple....DON'T USE IT! Royal Purple uses Moly as its primary lubricant and after repeated drain intervals, you don't get it all out. What's left turns into a concrete-like substance and has a high potential for internal damage to components and excessive wear.

4 quarts is good for oil by the way.

 

very good.. its already in my engine, i should change the oil again? or im good to go for 5 k miles?

 

Just run it through the normal interval and use K&W motor flush before the next change.

 

ok thanks