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tC stuck in Safe Mode...

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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 09:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by machulu
If the results come back as being a problem with the MAF, would that be intake related? I've driven with the intake without any problem for a a few months now so I'm pretty sure it was installed properly.
The only way it could really be related to the intake is if it was coughing a bunch of oil vapor up the tube that goes from the valve cover to the intake. That stuff can get up there and contaminate the MAF sensor.
Old Sep 28, 2005 | 09:45 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by TxCAMOxB
Originally Posted by machulu
If the results come back as being a problem with the MAF, would that be intake related? I've driven with the intake without any problem for a a few months now so I'm pretty sure it was installed properly.
The only way it could really be related to the intake is if it was coughing a bunch of oil vapor up the tube that goes from the valve cover to the intake. That stuff can get up there and contaminate the MAF sensor.

just got word from the dealer and they descibed exactly what you said. MAF sensor needs to be replaced. Is there anything I can do to prevent this or is it basically a risk I'm taking with the ingen intake? $371 for the repair by the way.

~Stephen
Old Sep 28, 2005 | 09:56 PM
  #23  
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The newer Injen intakes come with some little filter thing that goes in-line between the intake and the valve cover. Check one of the intake review threads/stickys--it talks about it in there. Might be called an oil catch can too (correct me if I'm wrong).

I'd think you'd only run into that problem if you were running it hot (thin oil) and hard (flying everwhere + lots of air moving around).

It can also foul up if you put too much oil on your air filter element or start using it before it's dry/soaked in.

I guess the moral of this is that as long as it's under warranty, is to put it back to stock whenever you have problems before going to the dealer. Most dealership service departments are trained to look for any way they can to make something not be covered under warranty. If they see something out of place, aftermarket, or otherwise, 99% of the time they will try to blame your aftermarket mods for whatever the problem is.
Old Sep 28, 2005 | 10:29 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by TxCAMOxB
I guess the moral of this is that as long as it's under warranty, is to put it back to stock whenever you have problems before going to the dealer. Most dealership service departments are trained to look for any way they can to make something not be covered under warranty. If they see something out of place, aftermarket, or otherwise, 99% of the time they will try to blame your aftermarket mods for whatever the problem is.
Very good advise here people. Its true.
Old Sep 28, 2005 | 10:41 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TxCAMOxB
The newer Injen intakes come with some little filter thing that goes in-line between the intake and the valve cover. Check one of the intake review threads/stickys--it talks about it in there. Might be called an oil catch can too (correct me if I'm wrong).

I'd think you'd only run into that problem if you were running it hot (thin oil) and hard (flying everwhere + lots of air moving around).

It can also foul up if you put too much oil on your air filter element or start using it before it's dry/soaked in.

I guess the moral of this is that as long as it's under warranty, is to put it back to stock whenever you have problems before going to the dealer. Most dealership service departments are trained to look for any way they can to make something not be covered under warranty. If they see something out of place, aftermarket, or otherwise, 99% of the time they will try to blame your aftermarket mods for whatever the problem is.
so basically the sensor was damaged from oil vapors already but still ran fine. When the ECU was reset when I disconnected the battery, it wouldn't correctly read the intake again because of the damaged sensor.

sigh... life lessons are a Biatch!
Old Sep 29, 2005 | 02:59 AM
  #26  
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instead of people guessing at what to do, has anyone read the owners manual yet? that would be the first place you would want to start since it mentions it in there
Old Sep 29, 2005 | 02:08 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by machulu
so basically the sensor was damaged from oil vapors already but still ran fine. When the ECU was reset when I disconnected the battery, it wouldn't correctly read the intake again because of the damaged sensor.

sigh... life lessons are a Biatch!
More likely it's been building up to failure since the intake was installed. They MAF sensor usually takes time to get enough gunk on it to foul up (unless you just start touching it with your fingers and such). You just have a CEL now (and the limp-mode performance) because the numbers that the MAF is reporting to the ECU are out of whack with what the ECU expects to see.

I'd chalk it up to bad luck--there are people here who have CAI's and SRI's with no filter or catch can installed and have been running for 1000's of miles with no issues.
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 05:40 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by TxCAMOxB
Isn't the proper terminology 'limp-home' or 'closed-loop' mode? 'Safe mode' for anything but a BMW 7-series just sounds wrong...

Also don't forget that if your gas cap isn't tight, or any of the vacuum hoses get detatched it will throw a CEL every time.

the correct term is "open loop" or "closed loop"
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 05:53 PM
  #29  
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Is that a hot wire sensor? I've heard that they can sometimes be salvaged by carefully cleaning the wire with rubbing alcohol or another solvent. Worth a try if the alternative is trashing the sensor.

George
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 11:54 PM
  #30  
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Should have installed stock intake before taking it to the dealer. Not like you were driving they car anywhere anyway. What type of aftermarker steering wheel were you trying to put in anyway?
Old Oct 1, 2005 | 12:11 AM
  #31  
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Did they try and clean the MAF? I know that many of the ford MAFs get dirty and have many drivability problems. All you have to do is clean the gunk off the small wires at the end of the MAF with some brakecleaner. just be gentle, it's a very delicate part.
Old Oct 12, 2005 | 01:53 AM
  #32  
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Is there anyway to Actually Prevent the MAF getting dirty with the oils in the first place? like possibly taking any excess oil off the filter..or placing the tubing in some lukewarm soapy water? or maybe just putting the filter element in the sun for awhile to get it a little more dry..possibly?
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 12:33 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Setarcos4131
Is there anyway to Actually Prevent the MAF getting dirty with the oils in the first place? like possibly taking any excess oil off the filter..or placing the tubing in some lukewarm soapy water? or maybe just putting the filter element in the sun for awhile to get it a little more dry..possibly?
Sure, just don't user an oiled gauze filter upstream of the MAF! Oiled gauze isn't a very effective filter anyway! The only reason that they are used is because they have some advantages for racing vehicles where the priority is finishing the race, not long-term durability.

Another racing concept that isn't so good on the street.

George
Old Oct 16, 2005 | 05:27 PM
  #34  
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if i told dealers that i never installed an aftermarket injen intake... do u think the dealers would fix the MAF's since i have the warranty?
Old Oct 16, 2005 | 07:07 PM
  #35  
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I'm sorry I might have missed something here but where you doing a mod then you connected your battery back and the cel came on? If you did what mods did you do, what brand, who installed it?
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